Once you have resealed the valve block, the air drier there's not much more 6o go wrong
I've also now discovered helpful videos on the RSW YouTube page.
I've also now discovered helpful videos on the RSW YouTube page.
Yep, Storey is a legend. Saint did a video somewhere too.
Aliztur keep going . . .you will get there, especially with EAS Unlock to help. If you found the thermal cutouts, go slowly and careful doing the replacement, and make sure you insulate the PCB from the compressor housing properly. Worst part is getting the brushes to re-seat properly when assembling !! Better still contact Kurt and get him to do it for you. I'm away until June, but after that willing to help if you want to limp the car to Langley. I have done quite a few compressor rebuilds including the thermal switch replacement.
If you can get the compressor to run, and inflate the system to roughly normal height using the software then it will be fairly easy to find the leaks with soapy water. It could even be reasonably drivable as long as the fault stops the ECU adjusting the heights.
If you can get the compressor to run, and inflate the system to roughly normal height using the software then it will be fairly easy to find the leaks with soapy water. It could even be reasonably drivable as long as the fault stops the ECU adjusting the heights.
Thanks.
I'm just getting a compressor straight from Kurt. Simples.....
I managed the bridging Relay 20 trick last night and ran the compressor while squirting everything in sight in the engine bay (not literally everything) with leak detection fluid.
No visible bubbles from anything I can see, but with the car down so low, there's not much I can see beyond that.
How long should I expect to have to run the pump before the car begins to rise?
Also, should I run the pump with a door/boot lid open to start with, or does that not really do a great deal for me?
Thanks
Compressor will get hot after 5 minutes solid running. Wouldn't run it longer than 10. If seal has gone then no air will be coming out. Expect to see movement within 10 minutes, even with a totally empty reservoir.
If you've had an exhaust blowing it often causes a leak that is near impossible to find, sometimes on the tank inlet pipe.
Airbags tend to leak under the folds. You can get an emergency lift kit with Schrader valves, use an airline to lift each bag and then see what drops if the compressor is knackered. If the compressor is working then take to full ride height, open door, switch off, pull delay timer and then lock up and walk away for a day or so and see what drops.
Leaking NRVs in valve block are trickier to diagnose but if you work through Wammers' checks methodically and report the results he might put in an appearance and help.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The car should rise after 5 minutes or so if there are no leaks, the air tank has to fill before the car rises. Leaving a door open for 5 minutes lets the tank fill before any action, then close the door and it should rise. However if the fault is still present, bridging the compressor will not raise the car.
The engine bay is not the place to look for leaks. Melted pipes will be on the top of the left side chassis member, leaks from the bags will be around the fold at the bottom sometimes hard to detect, but it can often be seen that the rubber is perished.
It does not matter how much air you have in the tank. If a major fault is recorded in the ECU the valve block will not open any valves to raise car. The fault needs to be cleared first. Wait until you have diag then you can see what is going on. Good pressure from compressor means nothing if the fill/feed pipe (#6) is compromised. You could put a pressure gauge in that pipe to see if tank pressure is building. If you have good output but tank is not filling that is the pipe the leak is in.
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Fab. Thanks. That explains a lot and saved me asking another unnecessary question.
I'll sit tight and wait on Postman Pat bringing my computer cable.
Hussar!! I feel victorious. And that's only because I've loaded the RSW unlock software onto my daughter's computer (battery power of an ox), installed USB adapter driver, plugged the whole lot into the car, got the thing working, cleared fault codes, forced pump to run, raised car to normal ish height and as a bonus, not been run over in the street!
However, I don't speak fluent EAS. Here are the fault codes on the screen:
2: FR Signal Incorrect
7: Vehicle has moved
1: Cannot Lower FR
1: FR Valve Stuck Closed
The car is up and pretty well balanced in all four corners, bearing in mind I'm parked on the side of the road with a camber.
Does this suggest a fault with the valve block or FR ride height sensor, please?
Access under the car is still v difficult for me. I've squirted where I can see/reach.
I have a full set of airbags and shiny new retaining clips. A new compressor is on its way. If these codes say to you chaps that it's the valve block at fault, I'll order one up. If it suggests something else, I'd love to know.
Thanks so much.
However, I don't speak fluent EAS. Here are the fault codes on the screen:
2: FR Signal Incorrect
7: Vehicle has moved
1: Cannot Lower FR
1: FR Valve Stuck Closed
The car is up and pretty well balanced in all four corners, bearing in mind I'm parked on the side of the road with a camber.
Does this suggest a fault with the valve block or FR ride height sensor, please?
Access under the car is still v difficult for me. I've squirted where I can see/reach.
I have a full set of airbags and shiny new retaining clips. A new compressor is on its way. If these codes say to you chaps that it's the valve block at fault, I'll order one up. If it suggests something else, I'd love to know.
Thanks so much.
Ride height sensor. Vehicle has moved means nothing ignore it.
Where sensor plugs into loom cable is only point to look at other than the ECU itself. Loom connection goes direct to ECU.
Thanks wammers' and Grrrrrr
Mr Storey also says remove and refit C117 EAS multi plug. I have managed to find what and where that is.
Where please is the FR height sensor wiring harness?
So is it an idea to remove the multi plug, give it a blast of air and a squizz of contact cleaner?
I'm happy to buy a new sensor if that will fix my problem. Less happy to replace a perfectly good sensor with a new one and still not fix the problem.
If the fault and lock-out was caused by something in the FR ride height measurement system, why is the car up in all four corners at pretty even levels?
Mr Storey also says remove and refit C117 EAS multi plug. I have managed to find what and where that is.
Where please is the FR height sensor wiring harness?
So is it an idea to remove the multi plug, give it a blast of air and a squizz of contact cleaner?
I'm happy to buy a new sensor if that will fix my problem. Less happy to replace a perfectly good sensor with a new one and still not fix the problem.
If the fault and lock-out was caused by something in the FR ride height measurement system, why is the car up in all four corners at pretty even levels?
Sorry. I should crawl around under the car first, ask questions later. Sorry.
I've found what looks like the height sensor. £70 for that???? And the electrical connector is pretty exposed to road salt, sh!t and mud. There's nothing obviously broken or awry there, but I'll give the plug contacts a good clean and see if that helps.
I've found what looks like the height sensor. £70 for that???? And the electrical connector is pretty exposed to road salt, sh!t and mud. There's nothing obviously broken or awry there, but I'll give the plug contacts a good clean and see if that helps.
C117 early or C0867 after 1999 is the multi plug that feeds the sensor wires into the ECU. As i said before it is either the connector to the sensor itself or the plug to the ECU. There are NO other connections in between
Make sure you get the correct sensor for your year of car. Early ones will not fit.
If you have EAS software working, adjust car up-down and see if the reading for FR sensor changes.
Fault-7 can usually be ignored.
The last two are probably due to the sensor reading being wrong or intermittent.
Fault 7 means the car has dropped since engine was last switched off or self level has taken place.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I agree with that.
