Thanks for the explanation wammers :)

So, this afternoon, I removed the valve block and replaced the driver pack just so I can potentially rule it out of any problems. I took the block out so I could check all connections and I'm satisfied that they are good.

Put the compressor back in that was in it and running yesterday... nada. Put it another, nada and it's coming up as 'HOT'. I'll be going back out with my 3rd spare and seeing what happens, along with the laptop and the RSW software, just in case it's Nanocom being weird.

I'll report back what happens, or doesn't, as the case may be. If it's still spitting the dummy, I'm gonna stick schrader valves on, inflate it manually and remove the delay timer so it can sulk in the corner.
Either the temperature sensor is duff or there is a wiring/connection fault somewhere.
 
Based on a good, fully working compressor, how long would the compressor have to be running for the thermal switch to cut in and switch it off?
 
Based on a good, fully working compressor, how long would the compressor have to be running for the thermal switch to cut in and switch it off?

Until it heats to more than 120 degrees. Or see post #15. Or someone has fitted a lesser value switch in it. Part number on switch should be. AIRPAX 67L120. Should run for a good 15 mins without over heating.
 
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Until it heats to more than 120 degrees. Or see post #15. Or someone has fitted a lesser value switch in it. Part number on switch should be. AIRPAX 67L120. Should run for a good 15 mins without over heating.

It must be goosed in that compressor then because it was coming up within a minute or two previously.
 
You'd think so.. but if I plug in diagnostics I can switch it on and off without issue. It runs on the bench without fail.

Waiting on some compound to arrive for my other driver pack and I'll get that on with another compressor. Pipe should arrive tomorrow or Friday too so I'll be able to test then.
Running the compressor on the bench does not involve the temperature switch and that may also be the case running it from diagnostics.
 
Running the compressor on the bench does not involve the temperature switch and that may also be the case running it from diagnostics.

Think you might be right there. Seem to remember I could trigger it from the Nanocom when my thermal-switch was goosed.
 
Number 3 compressor is now in and all is well once again...though it is noisy. Starts that knocking noise I mentioned previously after 20 seconds or so.

At least I can drive the thing now. Just need rimmers to hurry up and send me the replacement pipes!

Now all I need to do is check and perhaps replace the temp sensors in the other two!

Thanks for all your help guys :)
 
Number 3 compressor is now in and all is well once again...though it is noisy. Starts that knocking noise I mentioned previously after 20 seconds or so.

At least I can drive the thing now. Just need rimmers to hurry up and send me the replacement pipes!

Now all I need to do is check and perhaps replace the temp sensors in the other two!

Thanks for all your help guys :)

Check that the crank is tight on the motor spindle. And that the oilite bush has not come adrift.
 
Ah well, she's huffing again. Throwing up hot errors on this one too. So, either all the temp sensors in the compressors are duff or there's a connection problem with the temp sensor circuit.

Most annoying!
 
Ah well, she's huffing again. Throwing up hot errors on this one too. So, either all the temp sensors in the compressors are duff or there's a connection problem with the temp sensor circuit.

Most annoying!
Connection problems as a possibility have been mentioned a few times, the connector sockets loose tension so causing intermittent connection problems.
 
Ah well, she's huffing again. Throwing up hot errors on this one too. So, either all the temp sensors in the compressors are duff or there's a connection problem with the temp sensor circuit.

Most annoying!

You don't say? Why sometimes on here do i get the impression i and sometimes others are talking to themselves. ;)
 
Just as a wee update, I took apart 2 compressors today. The first was a Dunlop that was put on the vehicle in August last year from an LR 'specialist'. It was marked as a brand new, OEM unit. The temp sensor in this one is "JUC-31F" and is marked to be 125 degrees.

The other one is one of those green labelled units and it does actually have the AIRPAX 67L120 sensor in it though the bearing is wobbly as hell and the brushes look a bit..****.

So either Dunlop changed their temp sensors or what I was sold was a refurb unit and not brand new at all.
 
Just as a wee update, I took apart 2 compressors today. The first was a Dunlop that was put on the vehicle in August last year from an LR 'specialist'. It was marked as a brand new, OEM unit. The temp sensor in this one is "JUC-31F" and is marked to be 125 degrees.

The other one is one of those green labelled units and it does actually have the AIRPAX 67L120 sensor in it though the bearing is wobbly as hell and the brushes look a bit..****.

So either Dunlop changed their temp sensors or what I was sold was a refurb unit and not brand new at all.
JUC-31F is not likely to be original IMO. Just looked and it came up with made in China, Shenzen:rolleyes: Could be made elsewhere or is an obsolete product being made in China, haven't looked deep enough to be sure.
One difference, the JUC-31F does not mention DC on the data sheet I looked at, just 220 volts AC @ 2 amps, the Airpax is rated at 1 amp 49 volts DC. As it's only a signal line, both ought to be OK, but....................

The Airpax part is available from Farnell for about £5.97 + VAT
 

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