Datatek · Mar 12, 2012

lizalandy said:
Have you thought about trying a 2 part metal putty, mazel metal/ chemical metal. i used it a few years ago on the wife's car on a metal coolant pipe, it set hard in about 2 mins. you can sand paint etc. the repair i did lasted, and no loss of coolant. Worth a try, far cheaper than new block.............

I used that stuff to stick a patch on an alloy block that had a little hole where a rod came out

It was still holding at the end of the season when I binned it

Bix · Mar 12, 2012

wammers said:
Used properly it is ok. Of course it is better to repair the leak rather than bodge it. But don,t think this bloke has a great deal of choice do you. Maybe you did not work as a mechanic long enough. If i need any advice on IT i'll give you a shout.

A better option would be to visit a competent fabricator and get them to weld up the crack.

It is still only a temporary fix, on par with using filler to cover a rust hole, you're only hiding the problem not fixing it. The two main reasons people use RadWeld are: 1, Can't afford to get a proper repair job done. 2, To sell the vehicle before things get worse.

Although you could just argue I'm biased against products like that. Chances are this 38 will get scrapped or a new engine, so what the hell,, give it a go, might get a couple more months out of her.

dave4x4 · Mar 12, 2012

DM68: I have got a coolant pressure testing kit with a BMW adapter to fit the DSE expansion tank. It should could confirm the problem one way or the other.
I live between Chester and Northwich - less than an hour away from you.
pm me if you want it tested.

wammers · Mar 12, 2012

Bix said:
A better option would be to visit a competent fabricator and get them to weld up the crack.

It is still only a temporary fix, on par with using filler to cover a rust hole, you're only hiding the problem not fixing it. The two main reasons people use RadWeld are: 1, Can't afford to get a proper repair job done. 2, To sell the vehicle before things get worse.

Although you could just argue I'm biased against products like that. Chances are this 38 will get scrapped or a new engine, so what the hell,, give it a go, might get a couple more months out of her.

Welding a cast iron block is not quite as simple as nipping to a fabricator and slapping a bit of weld on it.

Bix · Mar 12, 2012

wammers said:
Welding a cast iron block is not quite as simple as nipping to a fabricator and slapping a bit of weld on it.

Naturally, as I recall with cast iron you have to preheat it, otherwise you'll just end up chasing the crack until it is scrap metal.

DM68 · Mar 12, 2012

dave4x4 said:
DM68: I have got a coolant pressure testing kit with a BMW adapter to fit the DSE expansion tank. It should could confirm the problem one way or the other.

Thanks for offer mate but a mates got one to test it. Going to get it tested to confirm and then wondarweld it for the time being until i decide what to do. Looked into getting it welded or locknstitched but to be honest by the time i've got it out and stripped, i might as well put a new/good used short motor in and that way i know it'll be right. With regard to the metal putty type fixes,nice thought but wouldn't waste my time or money.

wammers · Mar 13, 2012

Bix said:
Naturally, as I recall with cast iron you have to preheat it, otherwise you'll just end up chasing the crack until it is scrap metal.

Depends what grade of cast it is. Some can be welded some is almost impossible to weld. So i think if he can get it to last a little longer with some sort of rad seal whatever the make. That is his best chance at the moment. It may last a while it may not but for a few quid it's got to be worth a try.

Datatek

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Bix

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dave4x4

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wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Bix

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DM68

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wammers

No longer with us, RIP

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