surely not ?

Yep! they go rusty inside as well you know. Just have to remember to run the abrasive wheel round the friction surface inside the drum to deglaze and remove the paint. Having used hammerite of all types on rear drums, I can tell you it ain't even nearly heat proof. It always burns off on the circumference although remains OK on the rest of the drum. For those whose drums are OK with Hammerite, maybe your rear brakes are'nt working!:D
 
Yep! they go rusty inside as well you know. Just have to remember to run the abrasive wheel round the friction surface inside the drum to deglaze and remove the paint. Having used hammerite of all types on rear drums, I can tell you it ain't even nearly heat proof. It always burns off on the circumference although remains OK on the rest of the drum. For those whose drums are OK with Hammerite, maybe your rear brakes are'nt working!:D

so lets get this clear, you paint the inside of the drum, then remove the paint with an abrasive wheel ?:confused:
 
Would it not be cheaper and less time consuming to just buy some new drums?.thats what i have done and the old drums will be painted and cleaned when the weather gets a bit warmer---Dave
 
It's no good just de-greasing them, you need to remove or at least neutralise any rust that's on them before you paint them. Even hammerite will probably succumb to rust eventually. And they will get pretty bloody hot under breaking, so maybe you could try stove paint, that should stand the heat, :biggrin1:

You used to be able to get black teflon paint for motorcycle barrels, that's another option maybe.
 
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they were brand new drums that I tried painting!
Hence no need to rub them down..just degrease the protective storage shine they put on new bare metal components..might try stove paint if the Hammy doesn't work-
since I've rebuilt my rear brakes they work a treat and never stick or overheat..just wish they'd look nice!
 
As I said in previous post stove paint worked for me (matt black). The only reason I renewed the drums was because of the external corrosion so the stove paint was applied on to a clean rust free surface.
 
I just leave mine rusty, it's less work & no hassle whatsoever. Took them off & ground flush the wear ridge in the summer before fitting new shoes & general cleanup of moving parts. Next time round it'll be new drums & they can go rusty as well, as long as they perform well. I suppose though I'm lucky that I don't have pram wheels fitted, just the standard 16" alloys & although you can see them it's not a problem.
 
I just leave mine rusty, it's less work & no hassle whatsoever. Took them off & ground flush the wear ridge in the summer before fitting new shoes & general cleanup of moving parts. Next time round it'll be new drums & they can go rusty as well, as long as they perform well. I suppose though I'm lucky that I don't have pram wheels fitted, just the standard 16" alloys & although you can see them it's not a problem.

The flaking rusty drums spoiled (in my opinion) the look of the pram wheels on my facelift Freelander, I've had many vans and other types of commercial vehicles where I had no concern for the appearance but when it's my own vehicle I like it to look as good as possible (just standard spec without any bullsh*t)
 
What about this stuff? I bought some but haven't got round to using it yet.
 
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