Do you have a range for a good or new VCU,

Secondly is it on a rig with 75rpm, measuring torque loads

Not so complicated as that, constant known loads and amount and speed of rotation. I know i was going to get back on here with some of the loads and settings, just not got round to it. One thing i can say is, the way a VCU degrades means that the operating behavior of it is affected across its entire working range.
 
Not so complicated as that, constant known loads and amount and speed of rotation. I know i was going to get back on here with some of the loads and settings, just not got round to it. One thing i can say is, the way a VCU degrades means that the operating behavior of it is affected across its entire working range.

Thought you'd forgotten.

The thing is if you give us the weight and time taken we then have a much needed benchmark. It could also result in extra business for you.
 
Thought you'd forgotten.

The thing is if you give us the weight and time taken we then have a much needed benchmark. It could also result in extra business for you.


Yep, I agree. Also once you've done this & got a few satisfied customers people on here will recommend only you (a bit like Roverron with his synergy units) & you should see a fair bit of interest.
 
I've been racking my brains for a good diy test that easily repeatable by everyone. The trouble with the torque wrench on the centre hub nut and measuring the minimum torque that will make the vcu slip is so subjective to the way the force is applied, hence why there are such varying results on the thread that was on here. Its a great idea but unless you can ensue everyone applies the force in the same way its very little use.

I have come up with an idea which will mean you removing the front prop and vcu, bend the UJ to 90 degs and add a known weight to the other end. The time taken for the weight to fall due to the vcu slipping will determine if its a good or bad VCU. I will do this over the weekend on a good and bad VCU and post it up on a thread which you can make sticky.
 
Nobody has answered yet on how good these cars are to drive with FWD only and rear prop removed. Would you notice the difference in on road driving. My mates got one with head gasket trouble probably getting sold as scrap. Cud he take off the propshaft, IRD etc and sell all these unecessary bits on ebay? Would it still be a driveable and usable roadcar?
Could I start a lucrative scam in selling IRDs out of freelanders then selling the cars on without them? A bit naughy, but they're sh+t offroad anyway so I shouldn't think many owners would notice the difference- and they'd be better on fuel too.
 
Nobody has answered yet on how good these cars are to drive with FWD only and rear prop removed. Would you notice the difference in on road driving. My mates got one with head gasket trouble probably getting sold as scrap. Cud he take off the propshaft, IRD etc and sell all these unecessary bits on ebay? Would it still be a driveable and usable roadcar?
Could I start a lucrative scam in selling IRDs out of freelanders then selling the cars on without them? A bit naughy, but they're sh+t offroad anyway so I shouldn't think many owners would notice the difference- and they'd be better on fuel too.

Think you should search before jumping in with both feet
on all three aspects

2wd
Off roading
What an IRD does
 
Nobody has answered yet on how good these cars are to drive with FWD only and rear prop removed. Would you notice the difference in on road driving. My mates got one with head gasket trouble probably getting sold as scrap. a/ Cud he take off the propshaft, IRD etc and sell all these unecessary bits on ebay? Would it still be a driveable and usable roadcar?
b/ Could I start a lucrative scam in selling IRDs out of freelanders then selling the cars on without them? A bit naughy, but c/ they're sh+t offroad anyway so I d/ shouldn't think many owners would notice the difference- and they'd be better on fuel too.

a/When did the propshafts and IRD become unnesessary items?
b/They won't work without the IRD.
c/Have you ever off-roaded a Freelander? They're not great but they are definately not sh+t.
d/The owners would notice the difference when they couldn't drive it.

Not too bright are you.
 
I've been racking my brains for a good diy test that easily repeatable by everyone. The trouble with the torque wrench on the centre hub nut and measuring the minimum torque that will make the vcu slip is so subjective to the way the force is applied, hence why there are such varying results on the thread that was on here. Its a great idea but unless you can ensue everyone applies the force in the same way its very little use.

I have come up with an idea which will mean you removing the front prop and vcu, bend the UJ to 90 degs and add a known weight to the other end. The time taken for the weight to fall due to the vcu slipping will determine if its a good or bad VCU. I will do this over the weekend on a good and bad VCU and post it up on a thread which you can make sticky.

And?

I have already taken the rear prop off (first thing I did when we got it:cool:), have just tried a breaker bar on the back of the VCU and I still can't get the bastid to turn.

Looks like it's fooked but what get's me is that there is a brand new shiny IRD on it (I have a garage bill too) and the silly git's did'nt change the VCU :doh:
 
And?

I have already taken the rear prop off (first thing I did when we got it:cool:), have just tried a breaker bar on the back of the VCU and I still can't get the bastid to turn.

Looks like it's fooked but what get's me is that there is a brand new shiny IRD on it (I have a garage bill too) and the silly git's did'nt change the VCU :doh:

Fell at the first hurdle, I forgot that the prop UJ didn't have enough articulation to bend anywhere near far enough to use it as a pendulum!! So its going to have to be something fabricated up. I am on the case, just very busy at the moment.
 
Fell at the first hurdle, I forgot that the prop UJ didn't have enough articulation to bend anywhere near far enough to use it as a pendulum!! So its going to have to be something fabricated up. I am on the case, just very busy at the moment.

A piece of flat iron with a 1/2" square hole in it (or a socket welded to it) inserted into the UJ yoke and fitted to a torque wrench is an easily made tool to do the testing.
I've got two VCUs that both need 120 Nm of torque to make them slip, a mate just had to apply 200 Nm to shift his.
 

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