Hello guys!

Recently my beloved dropped the connection to the fuel gauge, temperature gauge and heater fan switch.

I've checked the fuses, and the spade connections to each of them, cleaned them and reassembled the dash.

But they still won't come back to life.

Can any of you wise people suggest a quick cure to the problem?

Cheers

Ken

I have no idea what it is he dropped...please elaborate...?????

Lack of fuel and temp gauge is often a buggered regulator behind the clocks - the fan is a bit of a mystery though. Do you have an electrical test meter? It's useful for sorting out circuit continuity.

also check yer aint dislodged any wires while puttin it all back together

Hi

"my beloved dropped the connection" by that I meant the Landy...oops...sorry for throwing you off the scent there.

I will see if the fan comes on today, when the car is off and stationary...I may have an outside chance of actually hearing it then.

I don't have a test meter unfortunately. I could get one, but I don't really know how to work it.

If you know of any other things I can try do let me know.

K

...mysterioulsy switches and gauges have recommenced working again!

Some of the supply wires break out at the back of the fusebox, a bit of wiggling might show you which ones iffy, and maybe sorted with a scrape of a stanley knife blade.

Hi

Just when I thought all was well, my wee Landy has let me down.

Since last winter the starter has been turning slower. I didn't think much about it, but knew that mostly likely there would be a dodgy connection or most likely earth. And I would get round to looking at it "sometime".

Yesterday, the charge and oil lights hardly came on and when I turned the key to start the car, nothing happened, after the starter turned once.

The lights would then not come on thereafter.

It started (eventually, which is very unusual as she starts after about three seconds normally) with a jump, so it's not the starter. Also battery is fine, as I checked that on the battery charger gauge.

So, I stripped off the negative strap from battery to chassis, cleaned it all with a wire brush head on my electric drill and reassembled it.

I also slid under the car and gave the starter motor connections an inspection but nothing obvious is apparent there. But still no joy.

So I pulled off the dash board and the fault is in there somewhere, because depending on how far you pull the dashboard out, determines whether the ignition lights come on at all, or about half as bright as normal. So I'm surmising a loose connection in there I think.

I am happy to potter about the engine and the car in general, but I'm not confident with electrics.

Is is something straightforward and common that you gurus can advise me on how to fix it, or, is it a "call an auto electrician" situation?

Cheers

Ken

Well it sounds like a poor battery connection or dead battery but if you're sure these are ok (and it sounds like they are).....
Check the high current connection + lead at the battery and starter solenoid end.
Check the low current connections at the starter solenoid - one of these wires feeds the rest of the electrics.
Does the horn work? This should be fed unfused from the back of the ignition switch. If this isn't working there may be a wiring fault between the solenoid and the ignition switch - call an expert.
If the horn works (and the wiring hasn't been bodged) check the spade connections at the back of the switch (take off the steering column shrouds to access). Current goes into the switch on the brown and out on the white - the red and white goes to the solenoid to activate it.
If the connections are OK you can try shorting the brown wire to the white wire and seeing if the lights come on. If they do, try starting the engine. If it all works replace the ignition switch and all should be well. If the engine turns over but will not fire there could be another wiring fault downstream of the ignition switch, call in an expert. If it won't turn over try connecting the brown, white and red and white wires together. If it starts, replace the ignition switch, if not call an expert. You now know how to hotwire a landy!

HEALTH AND SAFETY WARNING! You will be playing with high current and unfused low current wiring. For safety's sake disconnect the earth lead from the battery when connecting/disconnecting live wires. Or else be bloody careful not to short out to the metalwork of the vehicle. Remove wrist watch and finger rings before work - shorting out a car battery with a ring can easily burn your finger off.

Ooh - just a thought - even if the chassis connection is good, the connection through the chassis could be poor. Doesn't fit with the symptom of ignition lights coming on when you disturb the wiring behind the dashboard BUT try a jump lead from the battery -ve to the engine block to see if it fixes the problem.
(someone has fitted an additional earth from the battery to the engine on mine and don't forget the engine to chassis earth strap - there's one somewhere near the gearbox mounts.)

I still think it's a wiring loom problem - the diagram shows a couple of distribution points on the switched and unswitched live feeds that it describes as "cinch connectors".

If your confident with it, run a wire from the + of the battery to the small terminal on the starter solenoid, the one with the spade terminal on, if the engine turns over ok the fault is likely to be in the dash end.
If the ignition lights vary in brightness playing with the dash position the I suspect a problem with an earth connection behind the dash, or maybe manky fuseholder connections.
Otherwise as oxy says.

Hi guys

Some great advice there. I'll try all that as soon as I can get time put aside to do it properly.

Cheers

Ken