8

88SWaB

Member
I am rebuilding my door tops and have secured the bottom runner on the first one using stainless screws, which are counter sunk and have a very slight dome. I offered up the sliding window and it is scraping over the screw heads.

I thought the screws would have been buried in the runner 'cloth' but this clearly isn't the case. I assume that I will have to get flat head screws but is that going to solve the problem ?

The door top fixing kit, including runners, are from Britpart and the screws were from a Land Rover fair a couple of years ago.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 
Screws should have flat head's, and be pretty small. Last one I did I only put screws each end and stuck the rail down with black Sticks like Sh1t .
 
Thanks tottot. The screws I have are very small but they clearly have the wrong heads. I may go with the Sticks like Sh1t option.

One step forwards and two back. :confused:
 
I bought plastic channels for mine and glued them in. No more rust :D The only problem with grinding the heads is future removal
 
I was thinking that the main issue with grinding would be that it reduces the depth of the screwdriver slot.

Does the glass slide OK in the plastic channels?
 
Marmaduke said:
I bought plastic channels for mine and glued them in. No more rust :D The only problem with grinding the heads is future removal
Click to expand...
...although removal might also be a bit tricky if the glue is strong...

I used regular countersunk screws, part number AC606041L according to the parts catalogue.

I'm pretty sure screwing them down hard enough buried the screw heads deeply enough in the 'cloth' for them to clear the glass. You could carefully try a slightly larger drill bit to create more of a countersunk hold in the bottom of the channel, but need to be careful not to go too far through.
 
I now have some small flat head screws and will try using a larger drill to countersink the holes. I am going to try that this afternoon, so fingers crossed.

If that fails I will get some plastic channels. Thanks Marmaduke.

Many thanks for all the tips etc.
 
I got a door channel kit from eBay complete with screws. Even the flat head countersunk screws need screwing down tight to avoid catching the glass. The whole door top thing is relatively simple but needs a bit of fettling to make sure it all works right.
 
Hi Mik87
I have finished putting the glass in using the correct screws and countersunk the ones on the bottom, as suggested my Marmaduke. Unfortunately I can't get the new rubber strip/seal and securing ally channel to go onto the sliding glass. I have tried hammering, with and without washing up liquid but the ally channel will not go over the rubber seal.

How did you get on with the seal?
 
This exactly why I replaced the door tops complete with glass. Fiddling about with getting the glass in the new channels is a complete pain.

Col
 
Hi Col. I decided to buy the bare frames so that I could give them a good coat of paint before putting in the glass. I didn't want to buy the fully galvanised frames as they were expensive (almost £100 each). Once I worked out what needed to be done with inserting the glass and runners it was a fairly straight forward job. That is until it was time to put the seals on the sliding glass.

I did wonder if the old glass, which I have is slightly thicker than replacement glass.
 
88SWaB said:
Hi Col. I decided to buy the bare frames so that I could give them a good coat of paint before putting in the glass. I didn't want to buy the fully galvanised frames as they were expensive (almost £100 each). Once I worked out what needed to be done with inserting the glass and runners it was a fairly straight forward job. That is until it was time to put the seals on the sliding glass.

I did wonder if the old glass, which I have is slightly thicker than replacement glass.
Click to expand...
When I fitted my new door tops, I removed the original glass from the old frames, I was surprised how heavy they are so maybe the original glass is a bit thicker. I need to replace the channels in the rear sliding windows but I can't face the prospect.

Col
 
88SWaB said:
Hi Mik87
I have finished putting the glass in using the correct screws and countersunk the ones on the bottom, as suggested my Marmaduke. Unfortunately I can't get the new rubber strip/seal and securing ally channel to go onto the sliding glass. I have tried hammering, with and without washing up liquid but the ally channel will not go over the rubber seal.

How did you get on with the seal?
Click to expand...
Who did you buy the sliding glass seal from , bought one from Blanchards and had same issue ended up putting the worn out old one back on. Bought some different rubber from Woolies trim but that also did not fit.
 
88SWaB said:
Hi Mik87
I have finished putting the glass in using the correct screws and countersunk the ones on the bottom, as suggested my Marmaduke. Unfortunately I can't get the new rubber strip/seal and securing ally channel to go onto the sliding glass. I have tried hammering, with and without washing up liquid but the ally channel will not go over the rubber seal.

How did you get on with the seal?
Click to expand...
In my case I used the one that was on the glass already. I watched several Youtube vids and saw one by a guy called 'steamwally' put it on after the pane was assembled onto the door top, whereas mine already had it on so the sliding pane was installed after assembly. Some of the available parts don't fit well. I'd watch some Youtube videos and see whether anything occurs to you.
 
Aluminium door top is the way to go, they look better and won't rust, they lock, and they don't ride along the rail when you're driving, and won't need painting


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