Keith_L

Keith_L

Well-Known Member
I have finally got around to sorting the audio system. The first issue is that the speaker at the bottom of the driver's door doesn't work. I tested the speaker itself and it seemed to be okay so I checked the continuity in the two wires from the speaker to the connector in the driver footwell and sure enough one of the wires must have a break in it. There seems to be two options. One is to feed a new wire through and connect it in place of the broken wire. However, the new and the old wires would no longer be twisted together although I'm not sure how much of a problem that would be. The other option would be to hijack the other pair of twisted wires that go into the door, presumably ready for the top speaker that I don't have, and connect them in place of the faulty pair. Slightly more work connecting things up but no messing around trying to get a new wire through.

Has anyone tried either of these methods and if so how did you get on? Any other comments or options I have missed?
 

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Keith_L said:
I have finally got around to sorting the audio system. The first issue is that the speaker at the bottom of the driver's door doesn't work. I tested the speaker itself and it seemed to be okay so I checked the continuity in the two wires from the speaker to the connector in the driver footwell and sure enough one of the wires must have a break in it. There seems to be two options. One is to feed a new wire through and connect it in place of the broken wire. However, the new and the old wires would no longer be twisted together although I'm not sure how much of a problem that would be. The other option would be to hijack the other pair of twisted wires that go into the door, presumably ready for the top speaker that I don't have, and connect them in place of the faulty pair. Slightly more work connecting things up but no messing around trying to get a new wire through.

Has anyone tried either of these methods and if so how did you get on? Any other comments or options I have missed?
Click to expand...
Hi Keith,it might be worth trying to find out where the break is. I don't know how much of the insulation is visable but I would use a pin to pierce the insulation to check for continuity, say every inch, you may get lucky, if not I would just run a new wire (possibly connecting the new wire to the old one & pulling it through) ?
 
Thanks @Andy Warren, I hadn't thought of that. Assuming the break is where the wire gets flexed when the door opens and closes then I would only have to pull about 4" through to hopefully find the break and there is enough slack in the door to do that.
 
I've just had a further thought. I doubt I could use the broken wire to pull though a new wire as it is a twisted pair so I would have to see if I could get a single wire through but then you are back to the twisted pair issue. Are there any audio experts here who can comment on the real world impact of the speaker wires not being twisted together as a pair?
 
I don't know for sure but do twisted wires make for easy identification of the speaker wiring in vehicles ? (It would be a good idea in my book if it does).
 
I thought it might to do with cancelling out any noise picked up by the wires as the current is flowing in opposite directions. However, yours sounds a more sensible solution.
 
Keith_L said:
I've just had a further thought. I doubt I could use the broken wire to pull though a new wire as it is a twisted pair so I would have to see if I could get a single wire through but then you are back to the twisted pair issue. Are there any audio experts here who can comment on the real world impact of the speaker wires not being twisted together as a pair?
Click to expand...
I’m sure you know the reason for using twisted pair wire.
As you will be using less than 2 metres of cable, normal copper flat twin or fig 8 cable will do.
But if you think there could be a issue in you particular vehicle you may wish to use a twisted pair cable then use normal data cable UTP, and STP if there is a real problem with that loudspeaker.
 
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