poreilly101
Member
That door is - YES
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Is this correct??
Barrel looks like it’s in the correct place
A right hand 1 looks like the barrel/handles go the wrong way.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...254076?hash=item1eb9626c3c:g:e0IAAOSwpLNX8siq
Barrel looks like it’s in the correct place
A right hand 1 looks like the barrel/handles go the wrong way.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...254076?hash=item1eb9626c3c:g:e0IAAOSwpLNX8siq
ChrisBduck
Well-Known Member
Confused now. That looks like series doors. I thought early 110/90 doors were like the's pics. At least mine are.
That's not a rear door handle on there is it? Is the other side OK?
That's not a rear door handle on there is it? Is the other side OK?
poreilly101
Member
No fancy door cards with me...
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Plus it’s a front door
ChrisBduck
Well-Known Member
my bad, I'm going back to bed. Thought you were still on the fronts and didn't look at the pic properly.Night night
ChrisBduck
Well-Known Member
If it's any consolation I have the ssme iue with my rear door, but being a pick up it doesn't matter if it locks
NiallRussell
Well-Known Member
thats the same as mine, front, and 2nd row. 1985 one ten.
Could you have series doors? two piece?
poreilly101
Member
I have doors that separate. There is a bottom section and then the window section so they are two separate pieces.
poreilly101
Member
Useful post I found...
Series 2/2a/3/90/110/Defender doors are all the same shape with the same
boltholes for the important bits. A summary of the door types is as
follows:-
Series 2/2a - 2 piece (except rear & side rear of five door 109). Only
significant change in late production was to the window lock. Door check
pivoted on door, slides on bulkhead.
Series 3 - same as S2 except door check is pivoted on bulkhead and slides in
door. Optional (standard in late production) anti-burst door locks,
interchangeable except they need a hole in the door skin for the keyhole.
Series 2&3 optional groove along bottom for door trim.
Very early 110. Same as S3 door except that the door check is pivoted on the
door and slides on the bulkhead pillar. Glass is arranged differently with
the join between the two panes sloped rather than vertical. This door is
still fitted to most military 90/110. Tops are interchangeable from this
door right back to S2.
110/90 to 1987 Fabricated frame one piece door with wind up windows. Much
thicker, very prone to rattles. New remote operation door lock and
different striker plate.
110/90 to date. Pressed frame one piece door, even thicker, push button door
handles, new locks and striker plate, common to other
Leyland/Rover/Landrover vehicles. Generally much better engineered, but you
lose a lot of space.
All the doors are interchangeable with appropriate locks and striker plates,
except you may have to cobble up the door check arrangement. Fitting the
late 90/110 doors to earlier models will cause problems with elbow room
unless you also fit a smaller steering wheel and move the outboard seats
inward an inch or so.
Series 2/2a/3/90/110/Defender doors are all the same shape with the same
boltholes for the important bits. A summary of the door types is as
follows:-
Series 2/2a - 2 piece (except rear & side rear of five door 109). Only
significant change in late production was to the window lock. Door check
pivoted on door, slides on bulkhead.
Series 3 - same as S2 except door check is pivoted on bulkhead and slides in
door. Optional (standard in late production) anti-burst door locks,
interchangeable except they need a hole in the door skin for the keyhole.
Series 2&3 optional groove along bottom for door trim.
Very early 110. Same as S3 door except that the door check is pivoted on the
door and slides on the bulkhead pillar. Glass is arranged differently with
the join between the two panes sloped rather than vertical. This door is
still fitted to most military 90/110. Tops are interchangeable from this
door right back to S2.
110/90 to 1987 Fabricated frame one piece door with wind up windows. Much
thicker, very prone to rattles. New remote operation door lock and
different striker plate.
110/90 to date. Pressed frame one piece door, even thicker, push button door
handles, new locks and striker plate, common to other
Leyland/Rover/Landrover vehicles. Generally much better engineered, but you
lose a lot of space.
All the doors are interchangeable with appropriate locks and striker plates,
except you may have to cobble up the door check arrangement. Fitting the
late 90/110 doors to earlier models will cause problems with elbow room
unless you also fit a smaller steering wheel and move the outboard seats
inward an inch or so.
poreilly101
Member
I see this is on paddocks - The barrel looks in the perfect place to meet the contour for the barrel.
https://www.paddockspares.com/337802-door-handle-with-lock-lh.html
https://www.paddockspares.com/337802-door-handle-with-lock-lh.html
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Get a striker to suit as these will be different to what you have.
poreilly101
Member
@Hicap phill - Am I right in saying that they are the locking system I need?
Looks like I have Series III doors so?
poreilly101
Member
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
This looks correct. My earlier post was the same design but the photo was upside down.
Think that striker is for a S2.
You need a 90/110 type. As your existing early 1 is a large anti burst.
I will take some photos when I go out later for lock/barrel & striker from my left door.
Think that striker is for a S2.
You need a 90/110 type. As your existing early 1 is a large anti burst.
I will take some photos when I go out later for lock/barrel & striker from my left door.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
This is a 90/110 lock. Where the writing on handle is will be where your barrel lock will be.
Inside door.
Striker
poreilly101
Member
Do I just drill a hole and replace the barrel ..... Not a fan of drilling...
This is my striker attached... Am I crazy to go back to the older version?
Attachments
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
You may Be able to use that striker.
Don’t drill a hole you will regret it.
You don’t need to unlock that door from the outside.
Can you still lock from the inside ?
Don’t drill a hole you will regret it.
You don’t need to unlock that door from the outside.
Can you still lock from the inside ?
poreilly101
Member
Ok - Drilling is a no no....
That's the other side of it... If i just change the drivers I'll be laughing. I'll check to see if the locking mechanism works
