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parxuk

Member
OK i'm sorry, this is the most stupid and non-discript forum question i have ever posted and I have held off posting it for a number of weeks, but as it's still happening.

I keep questioning myself if my FL2 has a problem or not? I cant remember if it's always been like it, or started happening more recently?

The issue doesnt happen all the time, but sometimes when pulling away and accelerating there can be a slight jolt (as I think the car changes gear?). It doesnt happen all the time and seems more prominent at lower speeds than when I am above approx 20mph. As stated it doesnt always happen.

I dont know if this is normal, especially now the 2009 model year car has 135k on the clock.

I dont know much about cars, but hear of issues with gearboxes and power tranfer units and dont know how I could diagnose if those were at fault?

For info the car had the PTU and gearbox oil changed 2 years ago, and the Haldex was serviced by Bell Engineering last year, who at the time took the car for a drive and said the car was driving fine.

Dont know if i'm panicking over nothing, or if this is the start of something about to go wrong. DOes anyone have any similar experience?

I know that's not much information to go on, but I just get the feeling something isn't quite right.

Thanks and applogies for a rubbish post.
 
Thanks for the reply GrumpyGel, I only wish I could be more descriptive of what's happening, but it's difficult due to it's intermittent nature, and even when it happens it's only like a slight knock/judder.

Thinking back over the last couple of months there have been 2 occassions when moving the gear selector (FL2 is an auto) from Park to Reverse its made a sudden and quite loud jolt which was enough for the wife and I to look at one another in surprise, but then everything seemed fine when in reverse and then moving back through any other gears it seemed fine. Don't know if that is connected, and it's some form of gearbox problem becoming apparent?

I dont think it's engine related, and from what little knowledge I have I dont think it's haldex related either.
 
It shouldn't knock or judder. However the crank position sensor is know to cause misfiring and occasional cylinder dropout.
 
So after getting my auto box fluid flushed and replaced and then adding some Dr Tranny, it has made no difference since getting it done 1 month ago.

Not knowing what else to try I today pulled the FB6(?) Haldex fuse, and now the car is driving lovely.

The Haldex was serviced by Bell Engineering in October 2020, and it hasnt covered many miles since then, but It was probably naive of me to think that it would stop it from going wrong on an 11 year 140K vehicle.

I have heard of Haldex and Haldex pump. Are these the same thing or different? If different how can I tell (if at all) from pulling the fuse which needs reaplacing. Also, what is the approx cost of repair please?

Unfortunately I have a feeing this might be the end of my Land Rover ownership, which is sad as I do love how the car drives (when it's behaving itself!).

Thanks
 
Mileage and age are irrelevant, inadequate maintenance is the main reason for issues on these vehicles.

The Haldex can cause issues, my own is also misbehaving at the moment, so fuse FB6 is currently pulled out.

Mine is causing a rhythmic thump as I'm turning tight corners, which seems to be a common issue with them. However mine was filled with the incorrect fluid before I got it, which I think is a contributing factor of my fault.

In your situation, my first port of call would to Bell, whom supplied and fitted the replacement Haldex.

It might just need another fluid and filter change, but it might have an issue, which needs rectification, or it can cause additional damage to the rear diff or PTU.
 
Nodge68 said:
Mileage and age are irrelevant, inadequate maintenance is the main reason for issues on these vehicles.

The Haldex can cause issues, my own is also misbehaving at the moment, so fuse FB6 is currently pulled out.

Mine is causing a rhythmic thump as I'm turning tight corners, which seems to be a common issue with them. However mine was filled with the incorrect fluid before I got it, which I think is a contributing factor of my fault.

In your situation, my first port of call would to Bell, whom supplied and fitted the replacement Haldex.

It might just need another fluid and filter change, but it might have an issue, which needs rectification, or it can cause additional damage to the rear diff or PTU.
Click to expand...

Nodge

Thanks for the reply.

Bell Engineering didnt replace the Haldex, only serviced my exisitng one.

With the fuse disconnected, is there any way to tell which part(s) of the system might be at fault? i.e can it be narrowed down to the Haldex, Haldex pump (only) or possibly the rear diff??

I assume that driving with the fuse out causes no issues, but just have to be cognisant that the car is only 2 wheel drive at this point?

I have an MoT in March. I suppose I will have to put the fuse back in as the traction warning on the dash would be an MoT failure?

The vehicle is 11 years old and 140K miles. Probably only worth £3500'ish at a guess? I dont think it's economical spending £1000 - £2000 fixing it (if that's what it might cost??). Is there a way to stop/code out the warning light on the dash and just accept the car is 2 wheel drive only?

Thanks again.
 
parxuk said:
With the fuse disconnected, is there any way to tell which part(s) of the system might be at fault? i.e can it be narrowed down to the Haldex, Haldex pump (only) or possibly the rear diff??
Click to expand...
Removing the FB6 fuse, will prove it's the Haldex, if the issue goes away when it's out.

As for narrowing down more, that's tricky without more extensive testing. It depends on the actual symptoms you have, but if it's the shudder when turning, then it's difficult to define the exact issue.

parxuk said:
I assume that driving with the fuse out causes no issues, but just have to be cognisant that the car is only 2 wheel drive at this point?
Click to expand...

I don't believe so, but I do remember reading that speed should be limited, but I don't know what gen Haldex that was for. My gen 4 doesn't seem to affected, at least not that I've noticed so far.

parxuk said:
I have an MoT in March. I suppose I will have to put the fuse back in as the traction warning on the dash would be an MoT failure?
Click to expand...

I'll be putting my fuse back in for the upcoming MOT, as the light that flashes is the DSC, which might upset the MOT tester.
parxuk said:
The vehicle is 11 years old and 140K miles. Probably only worth £3500'ish at a guess? I dont think it's economical spending £1000 - £2000 fixing it (if that's what it might cost??).
Click to expand...

Car valuation is very variable, based on location, model, service history, general condition, mileage and so on, but at the moment the Freelander 2 is going up in value, and in reality 140k miles is nothing for them.

parxuk said:
Is there a way to stop/code out the warning light on the dash and just accept the car is 2 wheel drive only?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately not, the vehicle electronics are programmed to have all modules in communication, so if any are missing, it'll give codes and warnings.
 
Nodge68 said:
Removing the FB6 fuse, will prove it's the Haldex, if the issue goes away when it's out.

As for narrowing down more, that's tricky without more extensive testing. It depends on the actual symptoms you have, but if it's the shudder when turning, then it's difficult to define the exact issue.



I don't believe so, but I do remember reading that speed should be limited, but I don't know what gen Haldex that was for. My gen 4 doesn't seem to affected, at least not that I've noticed so far.



I'll be putting my fuse back in for the upcoming MOT, as the light that flashes is the DSC, which might upset the MOT tester.


Car valuation is very variable, based on location, model, service history, general condition, mileage and so on, but at the moment the Freelander 2 is going up in value, and in reality 140k miles is nothing for them.



Unfortunately not, the vehicle electronics are programmed to have all modules in communication, so if any are missing, it'll give codes and warnings.
Click to expand...

Thanks Nodge

Austen has quoted £475 to replace the Haldex. We love the car and I cant find anything for sale at reasonable money that would replace it so maybe we will look at keeping it.Think I iwll drive it to Bell, get him to check it over and if he thinks it is only the Haldex get him to do it. Fingers crossed it's not Haldex + diff etc.
 
parxuk said:
Austen has quoted £475 to replace the Haldex.
Click to expand...

That's a good price.
parxuk said:
Fingers crossed it's not Haldex + diff etc
Click to expand...

You'd know if it were the diff, as you'd hear it droning.
parxuk said:
We love the car and I cant find anything for sale at reasonable money that would replace it so maybe we will look at keeping it.
Click to expand...
There's nothing that really replaces the Freelander 2 for the money, and if looked after they're good work horses.
 
Nodge68 said:
There's nothing that really replaces the Freelander 2 for the money, and if looked after they're good work horses.
Click to expand...

Absolutely this.
Having previously had Defenders, I had money set aside which I'd saved for a late Defender. This was before the prices leapt to their current (over priced IMO) levels.

Since then I've realised that my 170k 58 plate F2 HSE which is worth about 2-2.5k, does the job off road for whatever I need. Its comfortable on road, drives well, keeps occupants warm and dry and doesn't suffer from rot. What's not to like.:D
 
Thanks for the replies.
No droning from the rear, so assume rear diff if OK. The car is driving wonderfully without the fuse (haldex) so hopefully getting it fixed will resolve my issue.
I was incorrect about the £450 for replacement Haldex. Actually it covers "haldex reset, recalibrate, deconaminate the haldex and replace the clutch" so hopefully this will do it.
Agree with you both about the FL2. The family love it, so decided to get it fixed.
 
potus said:
Absolutely this.
Having previously had Defenders, I had money set aside which I'd saved for a late Defender. This was before the prices leapt to their current (over priced IMO) levels.

Since then I've realised that my 170k 58 plate F2 HSE which is worth about 2-2.5k, does the job off road for whatever I need. Its comfortable on road, drives well, keeps occupants warm and dry and doesn't suffer from rot. What's not to like.:D
Click to expand...
Prices start from £5K here for an F2.

Just checked to see if anything's changed and still $10k start prices.

Mind you, did see this cheap F1. Guy said it won't start and doesn't know why! :rolleyes:

TradeMeFreelander.jpg


https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/land-rover/listing/3454495362?bof=6saHiqzf
 
GrumpyGel said:
Prices start from £5K here for an F2.
Click to expand...
In the UK, a well worn, high mileage 200k+ will set you back between £1800 and £2300, depending on model and condition, but prices are rising.
A nice condition SE like my 2009MY (it is now I've fixed it), with average mileage would sell in my area for £5500 or there abouts. WBAC just gave me a price of £4400 to buy it off me, and my current insurance gave it a replacement value of £5100, so they're holding the money at the moment, and the trade are aware of this.

A late model 2015 top spec SD4 HSE LUX (I may have the name wrong) :oops:, with low mileage will change hands for over £20k, :eek: which seems quite amazing, as that's still over 50% of it's new price, for a 7 year old vehicle, which could well need it's belts doing, if not already done. :confused:
 
Just to close this thread out for anybody searching with the same problem in the future wanting to know how it was resolved:

Took vehicle to Bell Engineering today (4 hour round trip) for Austen to complete a "Haldex 4/5 Judder Fix - Recalibration". Price = £450 + £25 for a rear diff oil change.

I'm a little disapointed that the £175 I spent getting the Haldex serviced 18 months ago was in vain, but that's just the way it is I suppose.

Car now drives buttery smooth, and am very happy with the service received from the Bell team (who are as busy as ever).
 
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