thebiglad
Well-Known Member
Hi mate, it was quite a long time ago but I think I just bought reasonable quality speakers of the correct physical size; ref ohmage they are usually only available in either 4 or 8 ohms, just buy two identical units.
The box under the passenger seat is summat else, EATS or summat. From the look of the back door panel I'd say the amp may be behind the sticking out bit on the right, else what else could it be? I believe some DO have an ICE amp under the passenger seat and if they do you will see it is sitting on the other box.
SORRY to not use more technical terms, which I know gets on the t!ts of some on here!
So If you get the sub box off and look inside it, you ought to find the sub's amp. You may be lucky and find a broken wire or connection or a dirty one which you can fix and solve the problem.
Best of luck.
SORRY to not use more technical terms, which I know gets on the t!ts of some on here!
So If you get the sub box off and look inside it, you ought to find the sub's amp. You may be lucky and find a broken wire or connection or a dirty one which you can fix and solve the problem.
Best of luck.
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Oh Sh!t
But there is a box of tricks under there in some Disco 2s. I have just googled it and it is the EATS box. Not food I am afraid but the Electronic Auto Transmission control unit, whcih i have cos i has an auto. So you may not have this unless you have an auto, in which case the box under the seat in a manual is for the highline ICE amp.(Now someone will come on here and tell me I am talking sh!t). If you have two boxes there then you have an auto with a top of the range ICE system.
Have you downloaded the RAVE manual? It is a big read but it will tell you a load more than I can!
When I dropped my ECU and bust it, I got a new one off ebay and it had to be enabled to communicate with the BCU which was a total hassle as I had to get an immobile Landy 10 miles or so to a LR garage with a dignostic thing to get the two to talk to one another.
Oh sh!t you are getting me into trouble now. The BCU is the body control unit, and please don't ask me what it does cos I only have a very sketchy knowledge of that. It may not even be where I said it might be, in fact the more i think about it the more I think the BCU is elsewhere! Here is where it is and what it does. https://callrova.com/land-rover-discovery-2/haha. thanks. I am quite happy with lack of tehnical terms. Saves me time googling
But you still gave me one to do..... "hey alexa, what the feck is a BCU?"(as if i would use an alexa, rather have a five knuckle shuffle with a handful of stinging nettles.
But there is a box of tricks under there in some Disco 2s. I have just googled it and it is the EATS box. Not food I am afraid but the Electronic Auto Transmission control unit, whcih i have cos i has an auto. So you may not have this unless you have an auto, in which case the box under the seat in a manual is for the highline ICE amp.(Now someone will come on here and tell me I am talking sh!t). If you have two boxes there then you have an auto with a top of the range ICE system.
Have you downloaded the RAVE manual? It is a big read but it will tell you a load more than I can!
When I dropped my ECU and bust it, I got a new one off ebay and it had to be enabled to communicate with the BCU which was a total hassle as I had to get an immobile Landy 10 miles or so to a LR garage with a dignostic thing to get the two to talk to one another.
haha, interesting stuff. Mine is a manual actually, so maybe I do have a Harmon Kardon system. Wish I knew of a definitive test to find out! I assumed not due to lack of mention of it and the seller said it isn't HK. or maybe there is a mid range, upgraded from standard but not HK spec. God knows!
Rave manual? I take it that's not about Ecstasy?
Rave manual? I take it that's not about Ecstasy?
Thinking more about this, if you are getting some sound then anyone who knows ICE should be able to tell you why. It maight be because the signal is getting through but has not been amplified somewhere, either in the amp by the subs or at the head unit. but I know bugrall about it really!Golden oldie I know, but i read this thread when researching whether my sub speakers are knackered or not. I am still not sure. They have a very weak and muffled sound but there is sound coming out of them, barely. I thought I should just replace them anyway so I had a butchers on fleabay and got the shock of my life! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...933225?hash=item28917320e9:g:K9gAAOSwPyRehjpJ
OOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWWW MUUUUUCCCCCCCCHHHHHHHHHH?????!
Back to drawing board. Grateful for any tips on replacing these:
PS I read on this thread that some people have an amp behind the subs. I haven't ripped it off yet to see if I have, but if i do have one, does the amp only drive the sub? I have never been sure what audio system my D2 has. The seller said definitely not Harmon Kardon, and no logos visible anywhere. but I do have a multi changer under driver seat and a small metal box under front passenger seat which may be an amp. Plus the subs on back door of course. The head unit is original Apline LR spec. I am not too impressed with the sound on it. The clarity is nice, but the bass is pretty pathetic/non-existent. I may consider upgrading more than just the speakers. But for now just finding replacement speakers would be a good start, if anyone can point me in right direction?
Mate you really do need RAVE, you can't own a Disco without it.
Heres some stuff you will find useful, if one of the RAVE download links don't work the other does.
http://www.d-lander.com/manuals/
For part numbers
The easyest seems to be the online version http://new.lrcat.com/ but if you want to print out here's the PDF of the book https://rimmerbros.com/images/pdfs/discovery2.pdf , a version without engine overhaul parts attached
http://www.modifiedlife.com/1996-land-rover-discovery-car-stereo-wiring-guide/
Parts list
http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232/35470/35580/2694
OK?
RAVE is the manual for everything to do with the Discovery 2. Think Haynes manual then multiply it by about 10.
It alos covers other Land Rovers. I think it was made for the american market. Just download it and have a look.
Just click on where it says download, you;ll see!
Not sure if you wish to make your D2 a "Sound System" for the masses??? but have you looked at Halfords Car Speakers?? at lot cheaper than your: "OOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWWW MUUUUUCCCCCCCCHHHHHHHHHH?????!"
i also thought i had a problem with the sound coming from the speakers!! got some new ones from Halfords (25 pounds) (tested before installing for sound difference against the old ones!) fitted and still had the same problem with the sound!! was not the speakers or the wiring system!! it was the tailgate where the seal had come away (fixed that).
Im just letting you know that Halfords speakers are good for me and the sound is also good???
Kev
i also thought i had a problem with the sound coming from the speakers!! got some new ones from Halfords (25 pounds) (tested before installing for sound difference against the old ones!) fitted and still had the same problem with the sound!! was not the speakers or the wiring system!! it was the tailgate
where the seal had come away (fixed that).Im just letting you know that Halfords speakers are good for me and the sound is also good???
Kev
Thanks Kev, I will definitely consider that, if they are still open? Now I know they don't have to be dedicated subwoofer speakers, I will find some on ebay probably, maybe even halfords as they are probably selling there if not in store.
Steamer - gotcha thanks. Wish I hadnt bought that damn haynes manual for my boot tool kit now!
Steamer - gotcha thanks. Wish I hadnt bought that damn haynes manual for my boot tool kit now!
In case any ICE people come across this thread. I am also having trouble with ground loop/noise. I fitted a Parrot MKI9100 bluetooth kit which works nice but picks up terrible noise from alternator/engine, goes up and down with revs. I hear that a "ground loop isolator" is a cure for this, but I am not sure where to fit one. On the power line going to the Parrot maybe? If anyone has any ideas, please shout
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Can you hear that noise with the original radio too or just through the bluetooth ? first of all you must identify exactly what kind of noise it is https://www.crutchfield.com/S-pjCgW...car/noise_suppressors_installation_guide.html
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Thanks. I am fairly sure (based on reading crutchfield and other sites) that this is alternator noise.
It only happens with audio coming from the Parrot kit. No noise from the LR stereo at all, only when it flicks over to Parrot either on a call or streaming music from phone. The parrot kit needs better grounding or filtering, I think. Just not sure where to start with that
It only happens with audio coming from the Parrot kit. No noise from the LR stereo at all, only when it flicks over to Parrot either on a call or streaming music from phone. The parrot kit needs better grounding or filtering, I think. Just not sure where to start with that
discool
Well-Known Member
I’m surprised that you Parrot kit is receiving engine interference, for years most electronic equipment as anti-interference technology built in, but saying that, its well known that that after an iffy installation, a system can suffer interference such as noise, a good example is video, speech and data wiring when no keeping separation from power cables.
So hopefully if you are the installer of your system you were not that neat and so ran the wiring keeping away and not tied to your vehicles cable looms also away from relay banks/fuse boards all sources of air born interference, the best u can do insuring that the earth connection are good also and the power supply used is independent and the ECU is correctly connected.
Loads of info on automotive electrical interference on the www web. But that's not my field, so I can only generalised as thats what my firm does with the miles of video, electrical/ data wiring and the large control panels we are asked to install in the large offices in London, and keeping all wiring at a minimum of 50mm away from power cables which I find difficult to design out at times but we do.
Interesting stuff thanks. Not too sure what you mean by some of it though. The power supply is not independent. I did keep wires further away than I usually do (installed quite a few of these kits. I did have same problem once on an Audi A6 which had Bose system, and it was due to the extra amp, I had to fit a ground loop isolator but can't remember where to fit it!)
Basically it's a plug and play, very very simple really.....
Pull out LR head unit. There are 3 plugs of wires into the back. One for speakers, one for powers/ground, one for something else with lots of thin wires in. Not sure what that's for, but it doesn't get disturbed as that stays in stereo. the other two go to the Parrot wiring (two female connectors to receive these), then the Parrot wiring has two plugs identical which go in back of stereo. So everything is all in line, no ground points made or needed, no power sourced from anywhere but the stereo cables. Its a case of pull plugs from radio, push them into parrot sockets, put parrot plugs into stereo, bury it all in dash, push stereo back in and done! It usually works perfectly. What I can't understand (have read tons of pages on web but none very helpful for this specific problem, still looking) is that the sound is clean when coming from stereo, but noisy coming from parrot, and its alternator/engine noise. So if i do buy a ground loop isolator, I can't work out where to fit it. On a power line? to the parrot from stereo harness? on the switch live or permanent live? Bit stumped, but will just keep reading and hope I find some guidance. Thanks again
Basically it's a plug and play, very very simple really.....
Pull out LR head unit. There are 3 plugs of wires into the back. One for speakers, one for powers/ground, one for something else with lots of thin wires in. Not sure what that's for, but it doesn't get disturbed as that stays in stereo. the other two go to the Parrot wiring (two female connectors to receive these), then the Parrot wiring has two plugs identical which go in back of stereo. So everything is all in line, no ground points made or needed, no power sourced from anywhere but the stereo cables. Its a case of pull plugs from radio, push them into parrot sockets, put parrot plugs into stereo, bury it all in dash, push stereo back in and done! It usually works perfectly. What I can't understand (have read tons of pages on web but none very helpful for this specific problem, still looking) is that the sound is clean when coming from stereo, but noisy coming from parrot, and its alternator/engine noise. So if i do buy a ground loop isolator, I can't work out where to fit it. On a power line? to the parrot from stereo harness? on the switch live or permanent live? Bit stumped, but will just keep reading and hope I find some guidance. Thanks again
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Ground loop isolators are usually fitted between any external unit and the amplifier so if you get one you should fit it between the parrot's output and vehicle's audio system
Ah right. thanks. I was going to fit it on the power going INto the Parrot, thinking it would filter the noise before it gets amplified by Parrot (IF it even amplifies, not sure!). But makes sense your way around too. I can try both. I think I need to work out if that metal box under front passenger seat is an amp or not, as that may make a difference!
