biketeacherdave

biketeacherdave

Well-Known Member
So a mate of mine has bought a sick 4.4 v8 nice condition apart from the sick engine.
It has a rattle on the front end no big deal another mate a mechanic is going to strip it down. Also found no compression on rear of the left bank so the heads comming off.

Does any one have the timeing locking kit sitting around by chance and could i borrow it ??
Cheers boys n girls
 
biketeacherdave said:
So a mate of mine has bought a sick 4.4 v8 nice condition apart from the sick engine.
It has a rattle on the front end no big deal another mate a mechanic is going to strip it down. Also found no compression on rear of the left bank so the heads comming off.

Does any one have the timeing locking kit sitting around by chance and could i borrow it ??
Cheers boys n girls
Click to expand...
I have the M62 full locking kit.....which includes the cam locks, VANOS timing clamps, chain tensioner block, cam chain tension locking pins, flywheel locking pins, VANOS tool, Solenoid Socket etc.

Locking Kit.jpg


I don't lend out will-nilly as it was sodding expensive - but you are a member of good standing and have helped others out who are local to you on a number of occasions so I feel confident you will treat it with love and respect!! I understand that another mechanic mate of yours will be doing the work, but I will put you in soul charge of the kit - if he loses it - you get capped :D:D:D

Let me know when you need it for and I am sure we can meet up!
 
biketeacherdave said:
Thank you saint i will be helping with the strip down and repair and will look after it as if it were my 1st born.
Click to expand...
No Probs - I am on hols from Sat 4th to Sat 11th August.....

If you need before then, let me know and we'll arrange a date/time and I'll pop over to our LHR office (North Feltham) and can meet you there - or close by.
 
biketeacherdave said:
Will keep this updated doing a strip down with lots of photos thanks ant for the loan of the engine timeing and locking tool
Click to expand...
No Probs, I look forward to the ongoing strip and rebuild thread - as I will be needing to do top end work on ours in the near future!

As always, we are here to help, mock and laugh at/with you at every stage!
 
Well two stuck valves don't help....

Also, aren't you supposed to lock the cams and fly wheel before you remove the heads, else whose to say the cams won't turn and the potential to be 180° out on refit!

EDIT: No Wait, just looked at RAVE - You fit them on refit of the heads to lock the cams in place and then do the full timing etc....

Carry on McDuff....
 
Thanks Ant for the locking tool, very nice to meet you today.

Rave will be a big help on the rebuild after finding the bores scored the block is now scrap, a short engine has been bought and will arrive Friday the heads are having a completed overall, skim and pressure test then where gonna do a full rebuild and engine swop.

Watch this space.
 
Looks like engines #2 and #3 on my 2004 named McGregor. As you are having the heads cleaned and replacing the block those are not of concern. But I strongly recommend you carefully inspect and clean your oil filter housing and hoses. Check for metal sparkle at the bottom of the housing. If you find some and at the corners of the heads, where oil pools, this is not a good sign. You may want to clean your lifters and check valves if you are not replacing them. That metal sparkle gets everywhere if it passed the filter. One other item, on the top of the block there is a check valve on each side - not the side ones behind the vanos. There is a rubber o-ring that you may want to replace before installing the head gasket - so you need two. Rave mentions them. They are readily available as a BMW part. If you cannot find the part I can look it up for you.

It is not a bad job. Just assemble everything you can while the engine is out. Maybe change the oil seal on the transmission and put in a new torque converter. One last item - I discussed this in other posts - Double check your timing via the upper timing cover hole and make sure you have no slack on Bank 2 timing chain.
 
biketeacherdave said:
Thanks Ant for the locking tool, very nice to meet you today.

Rave will be a big help on the rebuild after finding the bores scored the block is now scrap, a short engine has been bought and will arrive Friday the heads are having a completed overall, skim and pressure test then where gonna do a full rebuild and engine swop.

Watch this space.
Click to expand...
It was a pleasure to meet with you and you compadre, I hope the locking set helps you guys out and remember to take things methodically.

Watching with anticipation.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 8ha
Saint.V8 said:
Well two stuck valves don't help....

Also, aren't you supposed to lock the cams and fly wheel before you remove the heads, else whose to say the cams won't turn and the potential to be 180° out on refit!

EDIT: No Wait, just looked at RAVE - You fit them on refit of the heads to lock the cams in place and then do the full timing etc....

Carry on McDuff....
Click to expand...
When I took my cams out with the heads in place i had to unlock the crank and turn it to the 45 deg before TDC mark on the front cover which I’m guessing is the safe point for the pistons. I then had to turn the cams to a certain point to make sure all the valves were shut and pressure off the lobes.
When I refitted them it’s just a case of refitting in the same place and then refitting the cam locking tools and then put the engine back to TDC and locking the flywheel.
 
A number of things. 1) As holidaychicken states the 45 deg b/4 TDC is a safe place from valve to piston contact. 2) to get the cams reinstalled RAVE mentions lobe position at page 12-92 for Bank 2 (not finding Bank 1 but it is in there) - like holidaychicken suggests this is to take pressure of the cams and allow it to go in straighter without binding on the heads 3) If the vanos and exhaust sproket bolts are loose the timing is infinitely adjustable and if the blocks are on and one turns the crank back to TDC and sets the pin no damage can be done. The chain will "freewheel" so to speak.

Everything is in RAVE - you can find it in the link I provided up. Look under ENGINE V-8 - then OVERHAUL then Cylinder head - overhaul. I did not do everything per book, but I used the three items listed above to keep me safe.
 
Thanks all the heads are back they had to leave them in over night for cleaning first time they ever had to do that, all the valves were good so the rebuild begins in the morning
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

JokerUK
Sport MAP/MAPT Sensors on 4.2 S/C
Replies
0
Views
817
JokerUK
JokerUK
M
No one (not even Land Rover) can tell me what is wrong with my 2015 LRDS!
Replies
2
Views
642
mipwn
M
Neptune1922
Disco 2 At the moment following a new chassis on Feb 1st I now have quiescent problem.
Replies
7
Views
853
Neptune1922
Neptune1922
Skyisthelimit
No impulse on Discovery 1 1991 model V8 3.5 right hand drive.
Replies
12
Views
778
classic kev
classic kev
A
Low compression in one cylinder
Replies
1
Views
2K
steve2286w
steve2286w