Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Seems a shame not to change the ratios whilst you're at it!
I once ran a couple of water damaged diffs for a fair few miles, CWP, bearings, the lot.
They were "fine" once I removed the mud, jetwashed them out and did a few oil changes - they just whined like buggery over 20mph
I once ran a couple of water damaged diffs for a fair few miles, CWP, bearings, the lot.
They were "fine" once I removed the mud, jetwashed them out and did a few oil changes - they just whined like buggery over 20mph
discomark10
Well-Known Member
yea lil clean up and new bearings and good to go!
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
Cheers guys. Thanks for your comments it makes me feel a bit better about my decision to clean them up.
So what ration would you change to? I thought they were all 3.541. Also if I was to change, then I would have to change both wouldn't I?
Finally I am going to reinforce the trailing arms at the weekend and then go and test them out so hopefully I will have some nice piccys for yawl.
So what ration would you change to? I thought they were all 3.541. Also if I was to change, then I would have to change both wouldn't I?
Finally I am going to reinforce the trailing arms at the weekend and then go and test them out so hopefully I will have some nice piccys for yawl.
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discomark10
Well-Known Member
Yea both have to be done... wooop pics, what I like to see!!!
Ive been having a play with that suspension geometry spread sheet.... think ive got ma head around it now, going to get some mesurements today to get a precise calculation for the 3 link setup (still need to work out the squat mind)
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
Ain't apple auto correct handy
No it's bollocks lol
I'm lucky as I have a really slow crawl with it being diesel and set up right. My V8 used to b e ok unless the ground was rocky and then it would drive like it was hunting. Plus I got stuck a couple of times in deep water so a diesel is a must from my point of view. However your ms system should equal things out..
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Yes MS levels the playing field regards water, drive ability, torque etc, the v8 tipples the balance with more instant torque and much more too end power BUT fails with running costs.
Oh and it costs a grand to get to that point, but diesel cars are dearer!
Could just do with a better crawl cos the v8 also is easier to stall that the diesel.
Anyway, it's all fun, would be boring if everyone had the same (diseasel)
Oh and it costs a grand to get to that point, but diesel cars are dearer!
Could just do with a better crawl cos the v8 also is easier to stall that the diesel.
Anyway, it's all fun, would be boring if everyone had the same (diseasel)
Yes MS levels the playing field regards water, drive ability, torque etc, the v8 tipples the balance with more instant torque and much more too end power BUT fails with running costs.
Oh and it costs a grand to get to that point, but diesel cars are dearer!
Could just do with a better crawl cos the v8 also is easier to stall that the diesel.
Anyway, it's all fun, would be boring if everyone had the same (diseasel)
Has to be said though .. the V8 sounds sublime. Something the Land rover diesel can only ever aspire too ..
Can't remember where, some show I think, or what it was for, think a static engine from a Yank truck, but a few years ago I heard a v12 diesel and it sounded awesome, very sweet and 'balanced' sounding, but rorty and growly at the same time ..
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
My brother has the VW V10 diesel in the phaeton. Very quick but just not the same.
I love petrol engines and a sorted V8 or even the Porsche boxer are great sounding engines, however a Lamborghini V12 gets me every time
I love petrol engines and a sorted V8 or even the Porsche boxer are great sounding engines, however a Lamborghini V12 gets me every time
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
Ok so today, Saturday, was spent finishing off the trailing arms. Ordered some 30x30x3 equal angle and with this I strengthened the arms.
Firstly I cut the angle to length and then made a slit in it so I could bend it to the profile of the arm.
Then I stitch welded the angle to the arm.
Making sure that I seam welded around the area that was cut and welded to crank the arm.
Here is what it looked like when painted.
Prior to fitting the arms, I relieved the axle mount so any chances of the trailing arm hitting the axles when fully dropped we're lessened.
Then the arm got a fitted and a final coat of chassis black paint to he protect against the weather and rust.
Once I had tidied my tools up and packed everything away I went to see what effect the cranked arms had. Here is what I found.
Whilst the wheel is off the ground, the limiting factor now is the shock.
I have plus 5" shocks and they are mounted to plus 2" mounts. The springs are plus 3" with plus 2" spacers on the rear to balance up the look of the vehicle.
Unfortunately as I suspected, the spring spacers have meant that the shock is not long enough to allow the spring relocators to catch the springs. I need plus 7" shocks as a minimum now!
Obviously without the spring spacers the rear spring would be caught by the relocators and in essence be more dislocated than they are now. This demonstrates the whole point about the difference in dropping shock mounts and adding spacers.
I have got this issue because the suspension was originally NOT intended to have spacers anywhere. Unfortunately I had to fit them as at the time I did the suspension I didn't have a winch etc up front so the car was front high.
Anyhow the cranked arms have allowed the suspension to drop to its lowest point a lot easier and with a lot less strain on the bushes.
Finally the other side of the axle, well this needs extended bump stops as you can see from the pic below. The relocation cone is almost touching the spring seat and the bump stop is nowhere near!
Oh and the inner arch wants trimming some more as its almost touching the tyre.
Firstly I cut the angle to length and then made a slit in it so I could bend it to the profile of the arm.
Then I stitch welded the angle to the arm.
Making sure that I seam welded around the area that was cut and welded to crank the arm.
Here is what it looked like when painted.
Prior to fitting the arms, I relieved the axle mount so any chances of the trailing arm hitting the axles when fully dropped we're lessened.
Then the arm got a fitted and a final coat of chassis black paint to he protect against the weather and rust.
Once I had tidied my tools up and packed everything away I went to see what effect the cranked arms had. Here is what I found.
Whilst the wheel is off the ground, the limiting factor now is the shock.
I have plus 5" shocks and they are mounted to plus 2" mounts. The springs are plus 3" with plus 2" spacers on the rear to balance up the look of the vehicle.
Unfortunately as I suspected, the spring spacers have meant that the shock is not long enough to allow the spring relocators to catch the springs. I need plus 7" shocks as a minimum now!
Obviously without the spring spacers the rear spring would be caught by the relocators and in essence be more dislocated than they are now. This demonstrates the whole point about the difference in dropping shock mounts and adding spacers.
I have got this issue because the suspension was originally NOT intended to have spacers anywhere. Unfortunately I had to fit them as at the time I did the suspension I didn't have a winch etc up front so the car was front high.
Anyhow the cranked arms have allowed the suspension to drop to its lowest point a lot easier and with a lot less strain on the bushes.
Finally the other side of the axle, well this needs extended bump stops as you can see from the pic below. The relocation cone is almost touching the spring seat and the bump stop is nowhere near!
Oh and the inner arch wants trimming some more as its almost touching the tyre.
Paulmitchell1984
Well-Known Member
looks great and seems to work well....now where did i put my grinder hehe..
cant see from the pic, but on the rear where the mud flaps would go and that attaches 1/4 theres a bracket, have you removed this\bent it etc as mines really close on articulation and my wheel doesnt go that far up and in..
cheers
cant see from the pic, but on the rear where the mud flaps would go and that attaches 1/4 theres a bracket, have you removed this\bent it etc as mines really close on articulation and my wheel doesnt go that far up and in..
cheers
discomark10
Well-Known Member
Any idea how much travel the +5 shocks have. .. After +5 they just give a travel measurement rather than +
Do like the arms though. .. brilliant!
Do like the arms though. .. brilliant!
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Yep, that's a great suspension system there, crazy daft how much those 5" systems articulate!!
Can't decide if I want or not!!
(It's a toss up between being bored and nothing to play with before I know it, extra money that could do with not being spent on the car, slightly worn rear shocks anyway, etc etc)
Happy days by the way
Can't decide if I want or not!!
(It's a toss up between being bored and nothing to play with before I know it, extra money that could do with not being spent on the car, slightly worn rear shocks anyway, etc etc)
Happy days by the way
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
Paulmitchell,
I have removed the bracket that hold the mudflap however, the bolt you see in the pick is the one t hat would normally attach it.
Discomark10,
I don't know how much travel they have but will be checking soon.
Mr Noisy,
I do like the suspension set up on mine but now I have opened a whole new can of worms because I'm going to have to go to longer shocks and that mean different trailing arms altogether to produce a set up like this.
BUT before this I will get the front to articulate better as this will remove the need for the rear to articulate so much.
Watch this space.
I have removed the bracket that hold the mudflap however, the bolt you see in the pick is the one t hat would normally attach it.
Discomark10,
I don't know how much travel they have but will be checking soon.
Mr Noisy,
I do like the suspension set up on mine but now I have opened a whole new can of worms because I'm going to have to go to longer shocks and that mean different trailing arms altogether to produce a set up like this.
BUT before this I will get the front to articulate better as this will remove the need for the rear to articulate so much.
Watch this space.
discomark10
Well-Known Member
Done some research.
Devon 4x4 Forum :: Topic: King suspension testing video (1/1)
So not all you need to do is find some bigger ones
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Ian
Have seen the pic of that 90 truckcab before I think.
Yep, can see that the damper there is mounted really far away from the axle, to allow for its length no doubt!!
However, what worries me is that the damper will be so horizontal at rest height you will lose some road manners maybe??
Also the rear axle steer will be insane, unless you can't move anyway cos the prop bound!
Rose jointed trailing arms?
Shouldn't be too difficult for you to manufacture!
Have seen the pic of that 90 truckcab before I think.
Yep, can see that the damper there is mounted really far away from the axle, to allow for its length no doubt!!
However, what worries me is that the damper will be so horizontal at rest height you will lose some road manners maybe??
Also the rear axle steer will be insane, unless you can't move anyway cos the prop bound!
Rose jointed trailing arms?
Shouldn't be too difficult for you to manufacture!
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
First up shock lengths
Terrafirma at £40 ish
King shocks at £400 ish - yes I know that the is more to it than length lol don't tell the missus.
So even the most expensive shocks are only an inch and a half longer BUT nearly an inch longer when in compression.
I am now getting CDO (like OCD but I have put the letters in the right order!!) about the suspension. My premise is everything at a descent price and affordable, so I leave my shocks as they are and accept that the spring is where it is because I have the two inch spacers under them.
My aim now is to get the front end articulating so I take the pressure of the rear end to perform. Better cross axle performance!
The first thing I am working on is Hornet 4x4's first suspension product for the front end. I really need a machine shop so I can get these things done as at the moment I am having to make do myself or send my drawings of to a manufacturer.
Once this little product is done I will then move onto the second phase which is a fully adjustable setup which articulates as good as a 3 link system. However I am having issues with supply of correct spec materials.
Yes Noisy I have posted that pick before and you are right about the damper positioning. I have often wondered why the shocks aren't mounted to the trailing arms. Sure the leverage would be more so they would need to be stronger but in terms of travel and articulation, surely more manageable?
Finally I really fancy a trick setup on a Baja truck or racing pickup. Nothing would be more fun than racing at speed along tracks and jumping the motors to have then land like hey are on a magic carpet. Great fun.
Terrafirma at £40 ish
King shocks at £400 ish - yes I know that the is more to it than length lol don't tell the missus.
So even the most expensive shocks are only an inch and a half longer BUT nearly an inch longer when in compression.
I am now getting CDO (like OCD but I have put the letters in the right order!!) about the suspension. My premise is everything at a descent price and affordable, so I leave my shocks as they are and accept that the spring is where it is because I have the two inch spacers under them.
My aim now is to get the front end articulating so I take the pressure of the rear end to perform. Better cross axle performance!
The first thing I am working on is Hornet 4x4's first suspension product for the front end. I really need a machine shop so I can get these things done as at the moment I am having to make do myself or send my drawings of to a manufacturer.
Once this little product is done I will then move onto the second phase which is a fully adjustable setup which articulates as good as a 3 link system. However I am having issues with supply of correct spec materials.
Yes Noisy I have posted that pick before and you are right about the damper positioning. I have often wondered why the shocks aren't mounted to the trailing arms. Sure the leverage would be more so they would need to be stronger but in terms of travel and articulation, surely more manageable?
Finally I really fancy a trick setup on a Baja truck or racing pickup. Nothing would be more fun than racing at speed along tracks and jumping the motors to have then land like hey are on a magic carpet. Great fun.
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GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
Ok so whilst I have a week without jobs I thought I would have a rest - err no, the reversing lights have now stopped working.
So checked the switch both out of the car and checked its operation inside the car, all good. I checked the power to it and that is ok. Checked bulbs and they are fine too so can only assume that the wire somewhere is broken as there is no power to the light at the rear.
Question is where does the cable run from the switch to the lights. I know it joins the loom somewhere but does anyone know so I can narrow down my search?
So checked the switch both out of the car and checked its operation inside the car, all good. I checked the power to it and that is ok. Checked bulbs and they are fine too so can only assume that the wire somewhere is broken as there is no power to the light at the rear.
Question is where does the cable run from the switch to the lights. I know it joins the loom somewhere but does anyone know so I can narrow down my search?
