Honestly the wiper bonnet stay was the discovery of the ****ing century!!

It should have swept EP owners forums worldwide and become so popular that Honda had to recall all EP Civics to remove the original bonnet stay!!

BUT, it didn't :(

Couple of people with the same inlet manifold as me copied it, but that was it.

Shame really, was an epic mod IMHO :p
 
GreenHornet said:
I have a 150amp set up. It's a Sealy ripoff which I brought off eBay last year. It's a great little unit.

I typically use 20% argon mix although the last bottle has been 5% mix. Wilst not too different on heavy stuff, I find it worse on thinner material so will be using 20% from now on.

Another thing is I have in the past used small reels of wire. Now I have the larger 5kg reel and to ensure a good feed I have to have the gun tube completely straight or it doesn't feed well.

I can weld anything upto 6mm with confidence and also down to 1mm with a steady hand. Also the best buy was a descent auto helmet. Keeps you hands free and you can see once you stop welding.

My mate has just bought a new 200 amp set up. Can't remember the name but it is a purple unit. It is brilliant!!! Coast him nearly £600 though.
Click to expand...

Awsome, thanks! I've just been given a Clarke 100 en and its crap so been looking for something different and wanted to sus out what other landy modders are using at home.

I'm still learning I'm just coming to the end of my level2 in mig and gas so about ready for a good project ;)
 
what's crap about it? you might find that it can be resolved! It won't be powerful enough for chassis welding, but it could be Ok for the thinner stuff :) Is it gas or no-gas, or both?
 
Lyndon, take a moment to think the issues through with the welder. I was originally looking for a Clarke.

Simple things like a sticky wire feed caused by a damaged tube or feeder can render a mig useless but are easy to fix.
 
And for body welding the small rigs are better because often the big yet not hugely expensive ones CANNOT be turned down enough!

A 5 grand welder will push out 600 amps through wire like broomsticks but it'll also go low, whereas a cheap 250 amp welder will struggle to get below 100!

Have faith in your Clarke 100! :)
 
i use a clark 100 en turbo mig, and it does everything i ask of it, although i'm not convinced with gasless welding wire...
 
I like stick welding a lot. Not even remotely suited to bodywork though! Great for chassis repairs though!
 
100 amp will be fine for bodywork and panels, although you may have to weld two runs on thicker stuff. A little like stress welding.
 
Thanks guys, I'm used to a 4k set and the clarke was saved from the tip with the idea of sorting it out but so far as a cheap fix its needed new drive gear for the roller,New metal liner new shroud, New gas line and now it needs a new reg! Just feels a bit like money for old rope at the moment! But I will persevere with it if its worth keeping.

Thanks again!
 
Lyndon said:
Thanks guys, I'm used to a 4k set and the clarke was saved from the tip with the idea of sorting it out but so far as a cheap fix its needed new drive gear for the roller,New metal liner new shroud, New gas line and now it needs a new reg! Just feels a bit like money for old rope at the moment! But I will persevere with it if its worth keeping.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

I had a minimig100e for over 20 years and it did everything I asked of it, even up to chassis repairs with good weld prep. I had no hesitation buying another Clarke although to be fair I did buy a 150 amp unit.
 
Haven't worked that out yet mark. Like noisy says its a bit complex for here, I mean I can't see any mention of RTI scores and yet everyone goes on about articulation..........
 
Anyhow back on topic - tonight I stripped my diff for new bearings BUT......

As you will remember I had to replace the diff and pinion carrier on the rear axle of the Hornet and tonight I decided to strip the knackered diff to clean and then replace the bearings.

Now I need some advice on whether this is salvageable.

Here are some photos of the diff and as you can see, the pinion cog is stuffing from rust on the surface. The crown wheel is similar in condition but other than that its OK.

My question is, can I steel wool the surfaces to clean them up and then will it be OK to use again?
974b9685a02cf26a0b9ac80652d75026.jpg



228ac4594cbb7a70de60620dfa2abbe2.jpg


1701654f2ebaf30ae2aeac240de965d8.jpg


Cleaned up a bit

352efa9315edc0612ce46fb9fad7a171.jpg


Knackered bearing that caused the issue.

1e50efd977c1400455a46ca620adae7c.jpg


Now cleaned up

cc364b8f5cebb25f9470054d9b962944.jpg


The bearing outers removed. You can see the rear pin bearing inner and you will notice that as the pinion has been moving around, it has taken chunks out the edge of the bearing inner.

73d73b9a633b774eac2dc3477dba57ab.jpg


df47b3e91a7dc8a9b0e0c0d2e1debbf5.jpg


S what do we think, can I use it?
 
Well if you replace CWP and the bearings then the rest will be acceptable, if the sun and planet years are pitted then its not ideal but they won't whine anywhere near as much as when the CWP are pitted!
 
Planet gears are fine. Nice and snug with no play. Crown wheel is not too bad just some surface rust from sitting for a few months.

Pinion is the worst....
 
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