parptoot · Jan 22, 2020

Hello all, I have been offered a 56 plate Disco 3 by someone at work because it's caused her bother and she's done with it.

I'm tempted because it sounds like something simple (hmm) and I'm sure someone else will have seen or experienced the same.

She says it can be driven for an hour + with no problems some days, other days she can do 10 metres and then all the hazards come on (nothing indicates this on the dash). Sometimes the interior light comes on too, along with the doors sometimes locking/unlocking.

To add to the information I've been given, I also know that her ECU was replaced late last year as this was found to have fluid in it and it had similar issues. Lights on the dash etc. The issues now are slightly different. That new ECU has been checked for fluid again but it's all 'ok'.

Generally, it's just become too unreliable and scary for her to continue with.

Any ideas before I tell her yay or nay re the purchase?

gstuart · Jan 22, 2020

Hiya

first thing I would check is ensure 100% that the battery and alternator are sound

also see what make the alternator is, if it isn’t a Denso can create all sorts of problems

plus would really benefit having a diagnostic reader plugged in

alas they are complicated beasts with over 25 x ecus and can suffer with electronic gremlins

plus need to ensure the belts and oil pump cover has been done

also as that ecu had water ingress and replaced the pins may have turned green , therefore creating a short across the pins

but at the end if the day can just be down to a bad connector somewhere creating the issues , instrument panels etc, the list is endless

but start with the battery and alternator, then recheck connections on ecu behind the battery and see what u find then please let us know what u find

plenty here to always help

shame ur far away otherwise I could have plugged my diagnostics in

hope that helps a litttle

parptoot · Jan 22, 2020

OK, check battery and alternator.
Apparently, when a reader is plugged in, by her LR specialist, no faults come up now bit they cleared them first, without recording what DID come up <groan>.

Crusty ECU connectors - Makes sense. Just need to find out which one of the many was replaced.

I'll go to have a proper look bit this is cheap enough to just buy and worry about later or seek on EBay.

Thank you for taking the time to respond, very useful.

gstuart · Jan 22, 2020

parptoot said:
OK, check battery and alternator.
Apparently, when a reader is plugged in, by her LR specialist, no faults come up now bit they cleared them first, without recording what DID come up <groan>.

Crusty ECU connectors - Makes sense. Just need to find out which one of the many was replaced.

I'll go to have a proper look bit this is cheap enough to just buy and worry about later or seek on EBay.

Thank you for taking the time to respond, very useful.

ur very welcome and always a pleasure to help

the main ecu and transfer case ecu are behind the main battery , there the main ones that can get water ingress, ur see a cover over them which can be fidly to refit , it has to be done properly to prevent any further water ingress

have to remove the main battery to gain access to them , also check ur cabin filter that’s behind ur lower glove box, as underneath is the cabins fuse box

always the way when the codes arnt read before clearing them , lol

if you’ve got a multimeter ur looking for around 12.6 Vdc with the engine off, then with the engine running , nothing turned on around 14.6 Vdc , then turn everything on and see what it is at 2,000 revs , shouldn’t drop

Plse don’t hesitate to ask any questions that u may have as there’s plenty here to always help all we can

gstuart · Jan 22, 2020

Also plse ensure the timing belts and oil pump cover has been done

lynall · Jan 22, 2020

Big fuse on the battery positive and another down by the gearbox, maybe corroded.
Loads of body to chassis plugs, plus the ones Gary mentioned.

If its decent spec and cheap enough, buy it try and fix it, succeed keep it, fail break it.

parptoot · Jan 22, 2020

More to check, thanks.
she 'thinks' it's an HSE.

gstuart · Jan 22, 2020

parptoot said:
More to check, thanks.
It's really cheap, scrap money in fact and she 'thinks' it's an HSE.

hopefully u don’t have to but can get good money if there broken

vultures would soon be enquiring about parts

dibs on the headlights , lol

fingers crossed will be something simple

parptoot · Jan 22, 2020

If it's a proper dead and can't be fixed for a reasonable amount then I think it'll be sold on as is.
I realise I may make more breaking but I can't be doing that on my drive.
If it gets sold on, I'll bung an advert on here in the for sale section.

LUKBENPHI · Jan 23, 2020

more than likely it will be wiring in under carpet in front doors has come adrift or broken lift carpet by drivers seat and lift plastic cover and all will be revealed

As above oil pump is a must along with belts

have good poke and feel around rear arche and sills where the plastic trim bolts to the underneath , theres a gap near arch and sill that can be felt and is a good indication of shell condition if it crumbles in your hand where you can feel walk away as you'll end up with something like this one

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/re-discovery.342670/page-22

post 426 & 431 show the worst of the rot

parptoot · Jan 23, 2020

I should be taking ownership of this tomorrow.
Today the owner made one last attempt to investigate (thanks ) but th auto electrician has stopped and they think it may be the body control module

parptoot · Jan 24, 2020

Got it!
It's a disgusting mess inside but it's been used by a horsey lady and cleaning isn't her thing.
I'm going to get it to my house then begin the testing and hopefully repair it.

parptoot · Feb 1, 2020

With it getting cleaned up and with more time to think....I'm toying with the ide of selling this on, WITH the probable CJB fault.

lynall · Feb 1, 2020

parptoot said:
With it getting cleaned up and with more time to think....I'm toying with the ide of selling this on, WITH the probable CJB fault.

I reckon you will struggle, unless it is really cheap, people in general are scared of car electrics, land rovers even more so!

gstuart · Feb 1, 2020

lynall said:
I reckon you will struggle, unless it is really cheap, people in general are scared of car electrics, land rovers even more so!

plus 1 , inc all the re programming req to replace the CJB

parptoot · Feb 1, 2020

What's really cheap?
Silver, 126,000 miles, 7 Leather seats etc.

Ah, no M.O.T. cert either <groan>

gstuart · Feb 1, 2020

parptoot said:
What's really cheap?
Silver, 126,000 miles, 7 Leather seats etc.

Ah, no M.O.T. cert either <groan>

I’ll go for around £1500 , maybe less, trouble is with no mot can’t be driven on the road so new buyer will need a trailer

see what the other D3 owners think

johnlad · Feb 1, 2020

No mot means it’s a scrapper, grand if your lucky

lynall · Feb 1, 2020

parptoot said:
What's really cheap?
Silver, 126,000 miles, 7 Leather seats etc.

Ah, no M.O.T. cert either <groan>

Engine will always be worth money, for prices see ebay etc

gstuart said:
I’ll go for around £1500 , maybe less, trouble is with no mot can’t be driven on the road so new buyer will need a trailer

see what the other D3 owners think

Technically so long as you are driivng it to a prebooked mot!
Northanpton to Swanley might be pushing it though

parptoot · Jul 11, 2020

I've been working with an authority on the CJB/BCU programming and after few attempts at fitting another matched unit, I think I'm going to pass on this.

I'll be selling this 'as is', it won't be broken up for parts. I don't have the space or time.

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