marcus18

marcus18

Member
Hello people of the internet I have a Disco 3 the problem I'm having it it starts then stops after 2-3 seconds and I can hear the flap in the NS exhaust clicking and the coil light flashing. From what I can work out it its losing power to the ECU But when the ECU is on it says the battery voltage as 11.7V for some reason and has error codes P0562,P0A09,P1136. All the ECU pins are good and no signs of water but the passenger foot well is wet and all the earth points look good
I have been reading for days ! person sent the car to LR and reflashed the ECU to fix it, and the other scrapped the car.
Thank you for your help I am at a complete loss with this one
All the best
Marcus
 
11.7v is an issue, battery needs to be excellent, and charging voltage should be at least 14 volts.

With the later cars trying to fix anything without a code reader is a waste of time and money, search Icarsoft I930 and Gap IID.

There is a test valve (like a tyre valve) at the back of the engine bay, with ignition on and the valve cap removed give the inside of the valve a poke with a small screwdriver and see if you have any fuel present, watch your eyes as you press the inside of the valve.
 
Thanks for the quick answer
The battery is fully charged and measures over 13V engine not running but the ECU is reporting the 11.7 V
The code reader I have is a Delphi DS150E
and the fuel pump is running good and has fuel out the test point
the ECU pins are all good with no signs of water and inside is dry with no skid marks
Thanks
Marcus
 
I have made a video of the car playing about
after the 6 clicks the engine is dead but you take the keys out and wait for about 1 minute you can do it all again

I'm starting to think it could be the ECU but I could do with some help
Marcus
 
marcus18 said:
I have made a video of the car playing about
after the 6 clicks the engine is dead but you take the keys out and wait for about 1 minute you can do it all again

I'm starting to think it could be the ECU but I could do with some help
Marcus
Click to expand...


Hi

oh wow , looks like ur having some fun there , not

plus nice that u appreciate the help with plse and thk u , ur be surprised how many don’t and many of us here to always help u

may i ask a few questions plse

1) so u say u have over 13Vdc at the battery with the engine off , was that checked with a multimeter plse , had u just taken it off charge

2) when u was trying to start it was the bonnet up and door open as per display

3) have u checked the earths from the battery using a multimeter to ensure there ok

4) As you’ve checked u have fuel from the test point , what was the pressure plse

5) have u manage to start it at all or will it simply now refuse to crank

apologises for all the questions, it’s just so we can start going through the basics and ensuring 100% there ok before moving on

alas not familiar with the Delphi DS150E code reader , assume u can get live data and is it a genuine one , plus to get a general gauge , was it around £100 plse, as that’s what I’m seeing online , thks

hope that helps
 
Last edited:
Just checked the codes

P0562-00 (2C) System voltage low

P0A09 DC/DC convertor fault circuit low (pending)

P1136 Control box fan circuit (PENDING)

got a few ideas / clues , but will wait to see what u come back with first as no point throwing things to test before we ensure others are working 100% first
 
Thanks for your quick answer
I know what you mean about Ps&Qs I even say please to Alexa and thank you to automatic doors LOL
When I did that video the battery was just off charged and with jump leads + on battery - on the engine and the diagnostics was reading battery voltage11.7V But the battery was at about 14V with multimeter
Bonnet was up and the drivers door open but its still the same with both shut
Earths cleaned up and retightened
The fuel test point has good fuel flow and with the relay bypassed it pumps well
And if the coil light comes on it will start on the button run for about 1-2 seconds and shut off followed by the 6 clicks from the left hand exhaust valve and the fuel pump relay clicks
But even if you don't start the engine as the video it goes through the same sequence
The code reader is a cheap Chinese knock off but does the job very well I've used it on many cars and always been very good just only does up to 2014
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202147917940?hash=item2f10f47074:g:3AoAAOSwH1pcHlHN
But a lot cheaper Thanks AliExpress
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
Well worth the money for the home user

Hope that help
And thank you for your help and all the best
Marcus
 
marcus18 said:
Thanks for your quick answer
I know what you mean about Ps&Qs I even say please to Alexa and thank you to automatic doors LOL
When I did that video the battery was just off charged and with jump leads + on battery - on the engine and the diagnostics was reading battery voltage11.7V But the battery was at about 14V with multimeter
Bonnet was up and the drivers door open but its still the same with both shut
Earths cleaned up and retightened
The fuel test point has good fuel flow and with the relay bypassed it pumps well
And if the coil light comes on it will start on the button run for about 1-2 seconds and shut off followed by the 6 clicks from the left hand exhaust valve and the fuel pump relay clicks
But even if you don't start the engine as the video it goes through the same sequence
The code reader is a cheap Chinese knock off but does the job very well I've used it on many cars and always been very good just only does up to 2014
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202147917940?hash=item2f10f47074:g:3AoAAOSwH1pcHlHN
But a lot cheaper Thanks AliExpress
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
Well worth the money for the home user

Hope that help
And thank you for your help and all the best
Marcus
Click to expand...

hi Marcus

no probs and happy to help, blimey I’m the same with Alexa, lol , just so nice when someone come back that they appreciate it , another reason when that’s said of many of us going out our way to help

deep breath, here goes, lol

1) so with ur multimeter , with no external connections/ jump leads would u mind seeing what the battery Vdc is currently standing at with the engine off please

2) ref fuel flow did u use a pressure gauge to test it
3) when was the fuel filter last changed

the left hand sound is more than likely ur turbo actuator cycling on and off

thanks again for the replies and will help we can
 
Hello again
The battery voltage this morning after standing overnight is 12.97V
The fuel filter was changed about 3 months ago
And the fuel I just eyeballed that but that should be ok as the fuel relay is shutting fuel off when the enging shuts down
Thanks again
Marcus
 
Hello
Sorry I don't have a spare key but everyone's and the enging does start and run very well for about 1-2 seconds then it shuts down
Thanks
Marcus
 
marcus18 said:
Hello again
The battery voltage this morning after standing overnight is 12.97V
The fuel filter was changed about 3 months ago
And the fuel I just eyeballed that but that should be ok as the fuel relay is shutting fuel off when the enging shuts down
Thanks again
Marcus
Click to expand...

hi

thks for the replies , can u remember what make of filter u fitted plse and also I’m afraid ur have to use a pressure gauge to test the LPFP

here’s some guides and a video, of course it might be fine but just need to rule it out

hope that helps and know it can be frustrating at times but plse don’t struggle on ur own and many of us here will help

https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/robbies-guide-low-pressure-fuel-system-130062.html?highlight=Lpfp

 
marcus18 said:
Hello again
The battery voltage this morning after standing overnight is 12.97V
The fuel filter was changed about 3 months ago
And the fuel I just eyeballed that but that should be ok as the fuel relay is shutting fuel off when the enging shuts down
Thanks again
Marcus
Click to expand...

I reckon your multimeter could be duff, 12.97 after resting all night is to high.
A standard lead wet cell car battery is 2.1 volts per cell x 6 = 12.6 volts, them extra .37 volts might not sound much, but go .37 volts the other way down to 12.23v and the battery could be knackered.
 
Well the land-rover specialist has been out and spent 20 minutes on it and says its the ECU failed so I've ordered one off fleabay that should be here Thursday or Friday and I'll keep you updated as I find out
Thanks for all you help
And all the beat for now
Marcus
 
marcus18 said:
Well the land-rover specialist has been out and spent 20 minutes on it and says its the ECU failed so I've ordered one off fleabay that should be here Thursday or Friday and I'll keep you updated as I find out
Thanks for all you help
And all the beat for now
Marcus
Click to expand...

hiya

surprised at that if I’m honest as would have thought an error code would have been thrown up

Also not 100% sure if u can fit a second hand ECM, has to be new and re programmed , however as I said haven’t got a sure answer if it’s possible or not with a second hand one, fingers crossed will be a plug and play

assume he took all the battery out and inspected the old one

however he’s the specialist and does it every day so must have got an indication that it’s at fault

also surprising what u can do with a multimeter and test light, did a little while back buy a tester that can show if a wire is broken/ also really handy in a big loom as it can find a wire or trace i from A to B

Plse let us know how things go
 
Update for you all had the ECU swapped by a land rover specialist but the immobiliser didn't play the game and the land rover SDD wouldn't do it but I have a key guy coming tomorrow at do that so I'll keep you in formed
 
marcus18 said:
Update for you all had the ECU swapped by a land rover specialist but the immobiliser didn't play the game and the land rover SDD wouldn't do it but I have a key guy coming tomorrow at do that so I'll keep you in formed
Click to expand...

thks for the update , ah so it was the passenger fuse box that u had changed as indeed thats where the immobiliser section is

Fingers crossed the guy has a decent diagnostics as I’ve heard that it can mean a world of pain syncing everything back up , as the vin etc has to all match , hopefully it all gets sorted for u mate

Plse let us know how u get on and thks again for the update , is appreciated
 
gstuart said:
Fingers crossed the guy has a decent diagnostics as I’ve heard that it can mean a world of pain syncing everything back up , as the vin etc has to all match
Click to expand...

He mentioned SDD, so he has access to JLR software. I used SDD to swap the ECM on my FL2, however it went really easily, without complications with VINs or immobiliser issues.

I'm thinking the D3 doesn't like second hand ECMs, but it could also be down to SDD user knowledge.
There are several routines to run. I ran option 2 which worked just fine on a second hand ECM, so hopefully he selected this option in the menu.
Screenshot_20210516-074954_Gallery.jpg
 
Last edited:
Nodge68 said:
He mentioned SDD, so he has access to JLR software. I used SDD to swap the ECM on my FL2, however it went really easily, without complications with VINs or immobiliser issues.

I'm thinking the D3 doesn't like second hand ECMs, but it could also be down to SDD user knowledge.
There are 2 options on SDD, the 1st being to configure a replacement ECM, the 2nd is to configure a new ECM.
The routines run are different, so hopefully he selected the 1st option in the menu.
Click to expand...

hiya

I wondered that ref the SDD as I would have thought that would do it , that’s what i also wondered a few posts back with regards to second hand ecm but if I remember rightly the immobiliser is in the passenger side fuse box and not that ecm behind the battery , might be wrong though , lol

so wondering if the OP replaced the passenger side fusebox or the ECM because the immobiliser was mentioned

but of course know ur extremely knowledgeable with regards to the electronics side
 
gstuart said:
but of course know ur extremely knowledgeable with regards to the electronics side
Click to expand...
Thanks Gary. ;)
However my D3 knowledge is rather incomplete these days, as I've not had to delve in too deep in the D3 electronics for some years.
As I've a FL2, I'm equipped with the suitable diagnostic gear, and have done a few things on the FL2 to keep me up to date.
However D3 ECM replacements is a bit outside my skill set now. :oops:
 
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