Nodge68 said:
Thanks Gary. ;)
However my D3 knowledge is rather incomplete these days, as I've not had to delve in too deep in the D3 electronics for some years.
As I've a FL2, I'm equipped with the suitable diagnostic gear, and have done a few things on the FL2 to keep me up to date.
However D3 ECM replacements is a bit outside my skill set now. :oops:
Click to expand...

ur so welcome mate as some of electrics side u explained went over my head

must admit I started going into the canbus side of the D3 for when I had issues with my airbags , also didn’t realise the large amount that goes through the ABS module , must be some 20 x plus items

you’ve also got the gap iid haven’t u plse as I just admit also having one , a multimeter and test light I found an enormous help ref diagnosing errors
 
gstuart said:
ur so welcome mate as some of electrics side u explained went over my head
Click to expand...
Lol. And mine sometimes. :eek:
gstuart said:
must admit I started going into the canbus side of the D3 for when I had issues with my airbags , also didn’t realise the large amount that goes through the ABS module , must be some 20 x plus items
Click to expand...
They are complicated machines, but it's pretty normal these days.:(
gstuart said:
you’ve also got the gap iid haven’t u plse as I just admit also having one , a multimeter and test light I found an enormous help ref diagnosing errors
Click to expand...
I've an IID BT, SDD, using a Mongoose cable to connect to the vehicle, I've the Delphi somewhere connecting with the WOW interface, and the Icarsoft I930.
Sometimes though, simple is best, so DMM and test lights have their place. ;)

I've other diagnostic systems too, but those aren't for LR vehicles.:oops:
 
Nodge68 said:
Lol. And mine sometimes. :eek:

They are complicated machines, but it's pretty normal these days.:(

I've an IID BT, SDD, using a Mongoose cable to connect to the vehicle, I've the Delphi somewhere connecting with the WOW interface, and the Icarsoft I930.
Sometimes though, simple is best, so DMM and test lights have their place. ;)

I've other diagnostic systems too, but those aren't for LR vehicles.:oops:
Click to expand...

You’ve Got the diagnostics side covered then, lol

must admit bought this simple test light and has been brilliant , also like it shows the digital
+/- display

one day want to get an oscilloscope seeing vehicles aren’t going to get any simpler

6322F396-B727-4FF1-AB28-12603330F2C4.jpeg
FD96B7B4-F1DA-4DAA-A4DC-D5D41336EF9D.jpeg
 
gstuart said:
You’ve Got the diagnostics side covered then
Click to expand...
Indeed, but it's necessary these days.
gstuart said:
must admit bought this simple test light and has been brilliant , also like it shows the digital
+/- display
Click to expand...
That's a neat idea, I might get one of those for myself.
gstuart said:
one day want to get an oscilloscope seeing vehicles aren’t going to get any simpler
Click to expand...
I've got a really old Tectronics 20 MHz scope, which I used for my electronics hobbies stuff, but it's not ideal for car use, as it's too cumbersome and only mains powered.

I've got a cheap hand held scope too, but it's not fast enough or sensitive enough for in depth vehicle work, so I could do with a decent battery powered scope myself.
 
Nodge68 said:
Indeed, but it's necessary these days.

That's a neat idea, I might get one of those for myself.

I've got a really old Tectronics 20 MHz scope, which I used for my electronics hobbies stuff, but it's not ideal for car use, as it's too cumbersome and only mains powered.

I've got a cheap hand held scope too, but it's not fast enough or sensitive enough for in depth vehicle work, so I could do with a decent battery powered scope myself.
Click to expand...

Thought u would like that , lol, must admit preferred the test light that showed the voltage instead of some of the cheap Chinese imports that looked like they wouldn’t last 5 x minutes

did also find extremely useful one of the testers that could find a wire within a loom etc , knew it wouldnt be 100% accurate but helped me find wires within the general area, could then use a multimeter to test from one end to another but simply twisting 2 x wires together or using a link and then went to the other end, saved me having to try and mess around with very long wires

done the same with a multimeter on heating systems when I needed to test the integrity of wires by joining 2 x wires one end and then see if they were ok the other end , also hardly ever came across an electrician that could wire heating/ controls, sorry digressing as always, lol

ref the oscilloscope, looked at the Hanteks as they seem good value for money , reminds me bought one of the cheap Autel AP200 to keep in my glove box , plus think there also Bi directional seeing they can read height sensors etc

would also prefer a battery handheld one instead of messing around with a laptop but would only use it if I wanted to get a far more accurate reading , ie, watching canbus as I see they have a recording feature like the gap iid

Haven’t come across another reader like the capable gap iid , awesome bit of kit and must admit think it’s saved me a fortune not having to rely on dealers , see they now charge £170 per hour plus vat , outrageous rates

A9EC55B4-937E-4223-BEAB-C763BEAF0CC8.jpeg
 
gstuart said:
Haven’t come across another reader like the capable gap iid , awesome bit of kit and must admit think it’s saved me a fortune not having to rely on dealers , see they now charge £170 per hour plus vat , outrageous rates
Click to expand...

Unfortunately Gap don't seem interested in increasing the usefulness of the IID on the FL2, so it's very limited in function.
I found SDD very good, but then it's dealer software, so it needs to be good.
 
Well the key man did his thing and fried the new ECU so another SH one is on its way and LR man is on the case.
Its all good fun one day
But it is a land rover LOL
 
Plus 1, sounds like he bricked it @marcus18 , may i ask , was it the ecm module behind the battery or passenger side fuse box plse

have read that some of the modules need to be new but not 100% on that so will be interesting to see how u get on

hope all goes well
 
gstuart said:
have read that some of the modules need to be new but not 100% on that so will be interesting to see how u get on
Click to expand...

I guess that depends on where the information came from Gary. I contacted the local LR stealer to ask about replacing my FL2 ECM. I was told that a replacement ECM "must be new, a second hand one can't be reprogrammed to my car", however this proved to be completely incorrect. I followed the instructions on JLR SDD, which took me through a very simple process to install a replacement ECM. It didn't have to be new, just new to the vehicle. SDD programmed the ECM, aligning it with the security and calibrated it to my vehicle. It took less than 15 minutes, and it was all done. So some of this "it must be new" stuff, isn't accurate. Possibly rumours spread by LR, simply to prevent outsourcing of ECM replacement work.
 
Nodge68 said:
I guess that depends on where the information came from Gary. I contacted the local LR stealer to ask about replacing my FL2 ECM. I was told that a replacement ECM "must be new, a second hand one can't be reprogrammed to my car", however this proved to be completely incorrect. I followed the instructions on JLR SDD, which took me through a very simple process to install a replacement ECM. It didn't have to be new, just new to the vehicle. SDD programmed the ECM, aligning it with the security and calibrated it to my vehicle. It took less than 15 minutes, and it was all done. So some of this "it must be new" stuff, isn't accurate. Possibly rumours spread by LR, simply to prevent outsourcing of ECM replacement work.
Click to expand...

many of what I’ve read has come from online or the D3 forum

Indeed ur right with regards to info coming from JLR , do u remember when I was told it was impossible to add cruise control onto a FL1, think I proved them wrong and funny enough also if a second hand module was used it was all plug and play

also told by JLR if i needed to add another fob/ key for my D3 I needed to order it from them at around I think it was £200 for each key , plus a new module as they said extra keys can’t be added , that was around £500

Did go into the dealer to confirm this , after I found out from the D3 forum I went back, with 2 x new keys in my pocket and asked them again ,same lies , then asked for the manager , I put both keys onto the counter along with an invoice from ebay £60 for both keys and my gap iid to program them

I done my nut in front of many other customers , manager just stood there dithering , the thing I complained about the most was being lied to , I would have spent out around £900 for new keys and a module that I didn't need , did at one point feel like taking it further , but felt what’s the point , I remained calm and wasn’t rude, just put my point across of the miss information, if they hadn’t said keys can’t be added without a new module I wouldn’t have said anything , never been back since
 
Last edited:
Hi all for some reason my last post didn't post
But it lives the key bloke bricked the ECU so I got another ECU the Land Rover guy had another go and it now lives and its spot on he is going to fit a cambelt and then the long slow wait for the V5 to arrive and then I'll be on the road
But the land rover guy is flat out so I have said no rush until I have the V5 so it's still at his shop.
LLB Automotive in Farnham you are the best and very well priced
Thanks fella you are a

Marcus
 
marcus18 said:
Hi all for some reason my last post didn't post
But it lives the key bloke bricked the ECU so I got another ECU the Land Rover guy had another go and it now lives and its spot on he is going to fit a cambelt and then the long slow wait for the V5 to arrive and then I'll be on the road
But the land rover guy is flat out so I have said no rush until I have the V5 so it's still at his shop.
LLB Automotive in Farnham you are the best and very well priced
Thanks fella you are a

Marcus
Click to expand...
Hi
I have the exact same problems has you had. Can you tell me which ecu was the problem ?, the main ecu with the three large plugs or the smaller integrated transfer case ecu directly behind the battery ? . Thanks.
 
marcus18 said:
Update for you all had the ECU swapped by a land rover specialist but the immobiliser didn't play the game and the land rover SDD wouldn't do it but I have a key guy coming tomorrow at do that so I'll keep you in formed
Click to expand...
Hallo Marcus18. Did tou manage to start this car? What was the problem. Mine does the same D3 Tdv6 2007
 
I am suffering the same issues, starts every now and again and then cuts out within 2-3 seconds.
Can rev it up if i catch it.

Rather frustrating.
 
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