sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Sep 25, 2020

• #21

The fuel filler cap function has nothing to do with the fob, here's the WSM description
Fuel flap release
The fuel flap release solenoid only operates when the ignition switch is switched off, the anti-theft system is not
activated and the fuel flap release switch is pressed. If the BCU detects that these conditions have been satisfied, it
provides a path to earth for the fuel flap solenoid, so allowing the fuel flap to be opened.
To decide the correct conditions for providing a fuel flap enable output, the BCU checks the following input conditions:
l Ignition state.
l Perimetric alarm state.
If the battery state is not normal, the electric fuel flap enable is switched off.

Do you have power on the purple/grey wire of the switch ? At what "level" are you when it comes to electrics ?

 

M

MurphyLand

Member

• Sep 25, 2020

• #22

Yer ive sorted the cap now. Just locked the car and it’s completely immobilised again ‍ Not having much luck with this to be honest.

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Sep 25, 2020

• #23

Is the alarm is set to "not fitted" and this setting is saved ?, check again cos nanocom used to make tricks with the BCU

 

M

MurphyLand

Member

• Sep 25, 2020

• #24

Yes alarm set to them settings the nanocom is not connecting to my bcu now so I think it may have locked my new bcu out completely like it done with the last one. Is there any way of getting it back working without having to replace it again ? Thanks

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Sep 25, 2020

• #25

Yes, with the EKA code... i'm affraid that there is something wrong with the data link on your vehicle or you are missing something there cos as long as the alarm is confirmed as ''not fitted" the BCU or the ECM have no reason to be immobilised whatsoever

 

M

MurphyLand

Member

• Sep 25, 2020

• #26

When I’m trying to put EKA code in ... the immobiliser light flashes and holds ready to enter then as soon as I start to enter the code it just starts flashing again, so it’s not letting me enter it. Not sure what step to take next...

 

EeEk

Well-Known Member

• Sep 25, 2020

• #27

Id replace the rf sensor in the roof, refit the original bcm.....unlock it with the fob.

 

M

MurphyLand

Member

• Sep 26, 2020

• #28

Ok thanks I’ll give it a go. Do the rf sensors need programming in with nanocom or are they plug and play ? Thanks.

 

M

MurphyLand

Member

• Sep 26, 2020

• #29

MurphyLand said:

Ok thanks I’ll give it a go. Do the rf sensors need programming in with nanocom or are they plug and play ? Thanks.

Click to expand...

Also do they have to be exactly same numbers as the one I’ve got now or can any from and td5 go in it

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Sep 26, 2020

• #30

Plug and play and it must be the same frequency regardless of p/n

 

M

MurphyLand

Member

• Sep 26, 2020

• #31

Ok thanks better start taking my roof lining down then. The jobs was dreading the most ha

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Sep 26, 2020

• #32

MurphyLand said:

When I’m trying to put EKA code in ... the immobiliser light flashes and holds ready to enter then as soon as I start to enter the code it just starts flashing again, so it’s not letting me enter it. Not sure what step to take next...

Click to expand...

Are you sure that the door latch switch is working ? cos if not and the vehile doesnt get the key position input from the door the EKA can't be inserted and might be the root of the immobiliser too albeit if the alarm is disabled it should not matter... is the central locking working both way( locking/unlocking) from the driver's door ?

 

M

MurphyLand

Member

• Sep 26, 2020

• #33

It opens and locks the door straight away with key, there is no button in the drivers door though. (The one that pops up inside) not sure if that makes any difference. Also when I start the EKA sequence the central locking doesn’t kick in straight away with the other doors. And only some of the open with the central locking (boot and rear drivers side) other 2 won’t open with it at the moment.

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Sep 26, 2020

• #34

I don't really understand what you mean... confirm that when you lock/unlock with the key in the driver's latch the other doors are reacting right away on both commands , the mechanical door open latch is one thing and the electric microswitch which sends the input to the BCU is different... check connectors C0744, 0733 an the similars from LH side cos they used to suffer from water ingres and there's the split point for the door monitoring switch inputs to BCU

 

M

MurphyLand

Member

• Sep 26, 2020

• #35

No they don’t all retract only some not all ... but the button on the centre console opens them all and closes them.

 

M

MurphyLand

Member

• Sep 26, 2020

• #36

I’ve also just found my fob receiver like this in a plastic bag not earthed to the roof

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Sep 26, 2020

• #37

MurphyLand said:

No they don’t all retract only some not all ... but the button on the centre console opens them all and closes them.

Click to expand...

that's irrelevant cos that switch has nothing to do with the immobiliser while the driver's door status switch is very important, if you want to DIY you better study the WSM how that system works and follow the diagrams but if you are not handy with electronics this issue might be over your head.. what i forgot to mention is that i hope the alarm was set to "always" before it went immobilised ? did you prompt on "write settings" at the end of the menu after you modified the settings, double check, this is what you have to see

and on the third page from there "EKA option" to be enabled cos if it's in like the following pic it's normal to not work

 

M

MurphyLand

Member

• Sep 26, 2020

• #38

Yer electrics isn’t my strong point to be fair. I am in a little over my head with it all. I’ll check setting again when home later today. But I’m sure they are all set like that. I’m not sure if my ‘alarm disarm’ is set to always though, I’ll check. Thanks for all your help really appreciate it.

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Sep 26, 2020

• #39

as about inserting the EKA code when you can't with the key here's an alternative posted by me on other forum but it needs some electrical skills to understand and do it and if this trick doesnt work we are sure that tere is a wiring issue on that path toward the BCU:
.....
see RAVE- Electrical library - Connector views for the connectors, they are under the RH kick pannel, you have to splice with wires into C0733 pin 10(blue/grey wire) and C0744 pin 5(blue/green) (the wire colours must be those cos it's possible that the pins to be mixed) bring the wires where ever you want the switch.

A momentary single pole on/off/on toggle switch is needed, something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-Mini-Mome ... 2175715088 there are versions with screw connections it's just for example.

connect a ground from body to the middle terminal and the two wires each to a lateral and remember that the wire from C0733 -10 = unlock and C0744-5 = lock... eventually make a label to know which is which... then for EKA code you just have to switch between lock and unlock according to the EKA insert procedure for the key... simple as that

THE DRIVER'S DOOR MUST BE CLOSED WHILE THE SWITCH IS USED FOR EKA CODE

 

M

MurphyLand

Member

• Sep 26, 2020

• #40

Great thanks ... so I’ve got new bcu, the rf is now picking a signal back up just trying to sync the key but won’t detect it ... do I need to change any of the settings back in the valeo alarm settings for it to detect ? Thanks