Rangy alloys on a Disco would they work matt black?


  • Total voters
    16
  • Poll closed .
interesting read, got a bit of work to do on my two, i e rear floor etc, but thats landies for ya:D:D:D the very best of luck with your build, looking forward to the next instalment.


ron.
 
Ok chilblains here's what I did at 19:00 tonight. Removed the lumps of rust Land Rover call brake calipers. They are pretty rusted but I think they will clean up with a bit of work. For anyone who hasn't removed them before hows here I did it.. For the rest of you feel free to point and laugh :hysterically_laughi





First off remove the brake pipe located at the back, mine 11mm. Having put a clamp on the flexy pipe over the axle! I have cut mine as I am replacing with home made jobs. Don't cut and join a new bit to old, if you want to cut it, replace the length totally.



Remove the split pins, just cover the little metal clips below them with your hand as you do it as they may fly out. Once out remove the brake pads with pliers. They maybe stiff just give them a wiggle and they will slide free.



Top tip I was once given, bag as you go!! :eek: So many meanings to that... :suspicious: still its a top tip... :amen:



SO.. next remove the two bolts behind the caliper this will also loosen off your brake shield. Remove the top bolt first and try and get it nice and finger loose don't do what I did which was undo it loads with the ratchet then can't remove the ratchet because it hits the spring :doh: once the top one is loose before removing it crack the bottom one. Once then bottom one is almost out get a good hold of the caliper as it is a heavy old lump and could crack if dropped on the floor.



Vowallarr.... I speak amazing french.... There it is all off dead easy.



Couple of minutes later and one red hot wire brush (flappy grinder paddle 40 grit) ... I think these will be ok I have invested in a bottle of Fertan someone on here suggested ( maybe Robp or Robbh), I will use that and see how it gets on, will continue this part later getting the pistons and seals out for a good clean..... so hope you enjoyed stay tuned for more fun and frolics...
 
Looking good, an your 100% right bin them alloys ASAP!

LOL .. we shall see my dismal friend.. I have opened it to the public vote :hysterically_laughi

*don't tell anyone but regardless of the out come I'll still get modular... *

Ahh I just said that out loud didn't I?!? :doh:
 
id just replace those new ones are only £30 ish

REALLY?? :screaming_bug_eye_f which site? Had a quick look today just flashing through and prices of 115 for calipers was coming up... I will look again my friend thanks for the advice. For that money I'd have to agree... :tea:
 
interesting read, got a bit of work to do on my two, i e rear floor etc, but thats landies for ya:D:D:D the very best of luck with your build, looking forward to the next instalment.


ron.

Many thanks mate... It took me a while to jump but I thought both feet or nothing..... :D
 
REALLY?? :screaming_bug_eye_f which site? Had a quick look today just flashing through and prices of 115 for calipers was coming up... I will look again my friend thanks for the advice. For that money I'd have to agree... :tea:

300tdi ? google stc1264 and stc1265
 
Looks like alot of work but good luck with it ;)

Cheers bud... I'm trying to not think about the whole project, as when I do a million things to remember to do fill my head an it pops :boom: I enjoy a challenge and I love the fact the Landy is basically bolted together and is an easy project to start with all big and reasonably easy to reach....
 
REALLY?? :screaming_bug_eye_f which site? Had a quick look today just flashing through and prices of 115 for calipers was coming up... I will look again my friend thanks for the advice. For that money I'd have to agree... :tea:

Got a rear pair for my 300 for £80 with free delivery
 
yes you have bihex caliper securing bolts so late 200 anyhow ,early 200 used single hex bolts and calipers rtc5889 and rtc5890

Ok cool mine is 93 - 94, thanks for that mate I will seek out some 300 calipers tom. This is why forums are so great.... Cheers bud
 
Couple of minutes later and one red hot wire brush (flappy grinder paddle 40 grit) ... I think these will be ok I have invested in a bottle of Fertan someone on here suggested ( maybe Robp or Robbh), I will use that and see how it gets on, will continue this part later getting the pistons and seals out for a good clean..... so hope you enjoyed stay tuned for more fun and frolics...

Yes it was me that used the Fertan throughout my rebuild. Be careful about using it on the calipers though.

I did do a step by step post on how i rebuilt my calipers HERE the piston and seal kit cost a £5 per side but as others have pointed out you can get a new caliper for not much money like THIS

Oh and I agree ditch the alloys and use Argoshield for the welding
 
No mines 200 TDI... Are the rear calipers interchangeable?


Replaced all my callipers,pads and disks.
Island 4x4 do some good prices and free delivery on £50 + spent.
Good luck.

Off topic you have the same wedding ring as me :rolleyes:
 
you can get a new caliper for not much money like THIS

I'm not sure I would trust anything that came in one of "those" blue boxes on my brakes unless I was sure who made it. Don't have a problem with blue box OEM or suffix G stuff but for safety related parts like brakes I would be very wary about non standard components.
 
Robp said:
Yes it was me that used the Fertan throughout my rebuild. Be careful about using it on the calipers though.

I did do a step by step post on how i rebuilt my calipers HERE the piston and seal kit cost a £5 per side but as others have pointed out you can get a new caliper for not much money like THIS

Oh and I agree ditch the alloys and use Argoshield for the welding

Thanks for that mate, I will certainly have a look they don't need to go on yet so I have time to decide... Also sorry I didn't mean to tread on anybodies toes, just thought it would be fun to show and tell :tea:

Replaced all my callipers,pads and disks.
Island 4x4 do some good prices and free delivery on £50 + spent.
Good luck.

Off topic you have the same wedding ring as me :rolleyes:

Yeah Titanium rocks :banana:... I have polished this up twice since I've had it and I can get it looking like new again... Just so hardy for daily life and cheap to replace if I loose it. My wife gets all the expensive stuff I'm happy with this :D

I'm not sure I would trust anything that came in one of "those" blue boxes on my brakes unless I was sure who made it. Don't have a problem with blue box OEM or suffix G stuff but for safety related parts like brakes I would be very wary about non standard components.

Now this raises an interesting question, I would love to hear peoples thoughts on this. I often use aftermarket parts on my other vehicles as I don't like paying through the nose for something that is basically the same. I would have though that to make and sell devices in this country which involve safety etc they must be made to certain standards?? I mean walder, do you only use Land Rover brake pads? Or would you be happy to have other ones just not "Bluebox"? :scratching_chin: excuse my ignorance but when you say "blue box" do you mean a specific company that ryhmes with Git Fart?
I have never had a problem with aftermarket things brought from good companies, Ebay is another kettle of fish mind you :fencing:....
 
Last edited:
Robp said:
Yes it was me that used the Fertan throughout my rebuild. Be careful about using it on the calipers though.

Cheers for that mate, how did you find the product itself? I was intending mostly to use it on the chassis as most of the other rust bits will be cut out and replaced?
 
Also off the topic of brakes but back to project. How many of the body mount bolts will I need to take out to be able to lift the rear body up just enough for me to clean the top of the chassis? Just up to about half way, hopefully I can do the rest from the front?
 
On the painting I am going to use marine grade epoxy primer with two pack polyurethane top coat again marine grade on all the chassis and underside. Hopefully it will last a long time.
 
On the painting I am going to use marine grade epoxy primer with two pack polyurethane top coat again marine grade on all the chassis and underside. Hopefully it will last a long time.

Yeah that should be tough as old boots!!! :mil80: I have gone for a killing with Fertan (Phosphoric acid), cold galvinising primer then a red oxide undercoat, finished with Tractol black enamel. That is for the chassis, under body, any area that is more stone chip prone ie arches I will do the same but finish with waxoyl or find something rubbery which will soak up the damage. For the exterior side of the body panels I'm using grey primer/undercoat, wet flatting it then using Tekaloid coach enamel for the finish.... :5bsifone:
 

Similar threads