Rangy alloys on a Disco would they work matt black?


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Another gorgeous weekend of sunny weather meant alot of progress on Bumblebee. The Stallion popped round on Friday night and so ensued another weekend of to much beer, whiskey... absinth :D and take-aways :mad: whilst working on the Landy. Due to having an extra pair of hands I was able to get lots done. Both hubs, wheel bearing etc went back together first thing Saturday morning followed by the calipers. We then set about making up the new front brake pipes and having a right laugh trying to get a flange on the old steel pipe. The reason for this was so I didn't have to run new pipe all the way behind the engine. The rest was all replaced with copper. Eventually after several removals and refits we got the brakes bled and everything looking sweet. On to Sunday and started off making up the near side sill from my piece of box and repairing the near side pillar at its base. So a lot of fiddly plate work before welding it in to place. Cutting out the old sill was fine although in certain places it would have been really handy to have an Oxy Ace torch. Stallion suggested that at the end of the build I do a Top Ten of tools I personally couldn't have done without. I will also do a few of "tools that would have been dead handy to have" I think. So heres a couple of pics.. none of the sill yet as it was late when we finished and I couldn't be arsed.. :D



New pipes all in and looking good...



Hubs and calipers back on and ready to roll.

So I am finally nearing the end of the first part of my Landy journey. I still have a little bit of metal work to finish on the off side rear door but its not much. Then its seam sealer and shultz/waxoyl before filling and spraying. I will have a lot to "bits" to do here and there just to finish stuff off and continue improvements but it won't be long before she is back on the road.... hopefully... :D
 
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I'm with you on the knowledge. Skills as well. Hoping mine won't need anything major for atleast 10 years.
 
Slot those brake pipe brackets whilst you are there.

The ones that bolt onto the swivel pin, cut slots in them so you can get the brake pipe out of them.

You will thank me in future :)
 
Slot those brake pipe brackets whilst you are there.

The ones that bolt onto the swivel pin, cut slots in them so you can get the brake pipe out of them.

You will thank me in future :)

Just a hacksaw blades width? ... Not my grinder :D
 
Brake pipe width so 3/16" ish

So you can take the clips off, unbolt the caliper and remove, to get the hub off, without disturbing the swivel or brake pipe hydraulics

I use a grinder just slot it out easy :)
 
Brake pipe width so 3/16" ish

So you can take the clips off, unbolt the caliper and remove, to get the hub off, without disturbing the swivel or brake pipe hydraulics

I use a grinder just slot it out easy :)

Oh ok I thought you meant easier to remove if there is no tension or rusting... :doh::doh:

I get it now. just removing one side so they can be slipped out. Yeah makes sense I should have done it when I had it all apart.... :violent: next time I come to have them out I'll cut the slots ... :tea:
 
Slots are a great idea. Will do that myself. My next project is a ALRC CCV Trialer. I got most of the bits already.
 
haha mate cheers

you can stand at ease now :)

well, in a nutshell

chrome balls are far superior than teflon

they are made of stronger material (i have sheared a few teflon balls off now)



plus, the teflon wears through in not much time, rendering the ball scrap

so, any chrome ball is essentially better than a teflon unit

many use teflon without hassle but i have had enough of them now, a good pair of chrome is the answer


next, regards ep90 or one shot, originally land rovers used oil throughout, even oil in the wheel bearings

as it is the best lubricant. it is available is large quantities inside the casing and tends to slosh about, replenishing itself and washing out the bearings etc

one shot was designed as a bodge in the mid 90s as a getaround for leaking swivel balls

i guess land rover owners managed with it but disco and range rover owners were not happy, hence the change. the whole development of land rover axles has moved away from practicality and reliability to minimising oil leaks and allowing fitment of allow wheels.

it is a pure bodge and does not offer any better lubrication for the cvs apart from the small perhaps increase in shear strength of the molybdnum, but it is slight at best

i have now gone all the way back in time with my new build, using the best second hand chrome balls i could find (£100/pair!) with ep90 in the swivels and oil in the hubs

on the subject of which, use RTC3511 inner hub seal as it is double lip and better for off road and fit to 4mm depth

if you wish to use oil hubs simply remove half shaft seals and run oil in swivels not one shot

obviously rear axle is oil anyway

i know its a lot of information to take in so maybe let it mull over for a while

another good reason for ep90 is that as you say it is easier to drain/check/change whereas one shot is kinda in there until you need to take it apart.

removing the oil removes nasties also


anyway, nice work so far, pleased to see the time and effort going into painting, feel free to holler for advice :)

noisey.
so you get a choice of balls hey,posh buggers you Alty lot.:p:D:D
 
How are you getting on with your disco by the way?

Been a while since we spoke

yes it has been a long time,i have been reading your posts though.the disco was sent to jamesmartin to be re chassis'd and have other work done,it should be back home soon,i hope.:D:D
 
Wow, big job!

New chassis or just replacement?

Seems galv chassis is getting popular on D2 these days...
 
Wow, big job!

New chassis or just replacement?

Seems galv chassis is getting popular on D2 these days...

yes it was deemed better to replace rather than repair,to much crumbly stuff on the chassis,or what was left of it.not a new one but a very very good used one which has been properly prepped and treated by JM.:):)
 

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