Sorry blonde moment MIL??? Battery seems fine as it will crank over for a long while at a good speed. With the way it coughs and splutters and looses power gradually I don’t think it is electrical, might be wrong! I’ve had it with tractors before and a quick blow back down the fuel lines usually cured the problem. Is there a water separator on the inside of the chassis? It’s a long while since I’ve been under one.
The mileage flashes constantly and has done since I picked it up, I had to call LR for the radio code so I presume the battery must have been off at some point.
I’ve got them ready to change but someone said if it’s not helping the starting after it’s been purged it’s not the washers, I am still going to change them just for peace of mind.Have you already changed the injector washers? There was a guy here in Hungary with very similar issue (started almost the same time like yours. They changed the washers and o-rings yesterday, issue solved for them.
Si Click
Well-Known Member
MIL = Malfunction Indication Light aka Engine Check Light. If the M&S lights are flashing, but the MIL is not then it is because of low voltage (less than 9V with the engine running). Low battery voltage can be a reason for a TD5 not to start. The injectors are directly controlled by the ECU and if the battery voltage is low then the engine can crank over OK, but the ECU will prevent start. The same is true of a crank sensor fault. So you really need to connect it to a diagnostic tool. The Foxwell NT530 is supposed to be very good and is on sale now.
I’ll check the voltage first before I do anything else.
I had unplugged the maf and air temp sensor in the workshop, thought I’d cured the problem as been out on a drive and 3 miles before she started to splutter and stopped!!!! purged and restarted eventually now I’ve only got another mile before she’s gone again. I’ve filled the tank right up now as well. 
Si Click
Well-Known Member
Could do with a charge, but nothing that would cause your problems. I still think that an intermittent crank position sensor fault could be the issue. You still need a diagnostic check. If nothing shows up on the diagnostic then fueling is probably the cause.
If it was crank sensor would it still start missing and loose power then eventually die??
berg450
Well-Known Member
If you already have the parts why do not you change the injector washers? It is not a big job as i have heard and at least you will know that it has done....
The guy here in hungary had very similar issue and also checked everithing and finally changed the washers. Since he is ok.
The guy here in hungary had very similar issue and also checked everithing and finally changed the washers. Since he is ok.
Si Click
Well-Known Member
If the sensor itself has fully failed, then no, it would not start at all. But they can also suffer from partial failures, from interference and from degradation in the wiring.
My son's D90 cut out on him a few miles from home. He called me out and when I put my Hawkeye on it the DTC showed crank sensor signal high failure. It started and ran, but after a few miles started missing and then lost all power. In replacing the sensor I found that the wiring to the sensor was utterly shot. I had to replace the shielded wire to the ECU which almost cured the problem. It ran OK but gave an occasional MIL and a crank signal high fault. Taking off the cheap new aftermarket sensor and putting the old, but OEM, one back on cured it completely.
Before I put the first lot of fuel in I did put a can of injector cleaner in. I went out today and have done about 50miles with a break in the middle to go into a shop and it hasn’t missed a beat!!! It still took a while to start even after a purge but started easily after I’d been into shop, I was in there for over half an hour.
As an extra bit of detail, I've had some fuel issues, was getting less than 1 bar pressure.
Changed the fuel pump, changed the regulator and still the same issue.
Found out eventually that somebody who owned the car before me had disconnected the pipes to the regulator and connected then up wrong.
Once corrected the pressure was back to 4 bar.
I mention it as, I was having issues where it would drive fine but then wouldn't turn over for a while.
Changed the fuel pump, changed the regulator and still the same issue.
Found out eventually that somebody who owned the car before me had disconnected the pipes to the regulator and connected then up wrong.
Once corrected the pressure was back to 4 bar.
I mention it as, I was having issues where it would drive fine but then wouldn't turn over for a while.
Interesting, do you have a diagram of what goes where? Although today I went out in it, I let the heater light go out and within 5 or 6 seconds it started and didn’t miss a beat the whole time I was out. I’m wondering with the amount of times I’ve purged it it has cleared any blockage that was there.
So after nearly a year of virtually trouble free motoring my problem is back!!! Until a week ago it’s only cut out twice on me all year!! I had been out in it with no problems stopped to talk to someone, got back in after 10 minutes and it was a pig to start, then cut out on me 3 times in 2 miles!!! All fine for a few days then yesterday cranked over, tried to start, the odd splutter then ran the battery down!! Put it on boost starter and after a little bit of cranking she started. I put it in the shed ready for morning and left it running for a while, all fine. Started this morning the best it has for ages, drove a 100yrds, got out to unlock gate and before I could get back in she spluttered to a stop and now won’t start!!!! It tries to fire, splutters and farts, plenty of smoke from unburnt diesel but no go! HELP!!!!
So last night I decided to set about the injector seals! Actually wasn’t as bad as I thought, glad I didn’t spend money on a special tool, 5 minutes and I had made something to lever them out. Put it all back together and tried to start it!!!! No go, eventually spluttered into some kind of life, filled the shed with smoke and stopped!!! .
Time for a back track! Night before I had changed the air filter, in my haste I had inadvertently trapped the little pipe that comes off the side of the air box Put that back on and no runs a dream!! Started on the button this morning. Hope this might help someone.
Time for a back track! Night before I had changed the air filter, in my haste I had inadvertently trapped the little pipe that comes off the side of the air box
Put that back on and no runs a dream!! Started on the button this morning. Hope this might help someone.
frostythor
Well-Known Member
I had trouble with mine driving up the M6 it I noticed it was loosing power just made it to Fleetwood, and got on the garage forecourt, left it with them a got a taxi to my digs, they went through the whole fuel system, I have not had any problems since, injectors the lot new fuel filter, it turned out to be the filter on the pump in the fuel tank, it had picked up dirt and just clogged up while I was driving, as I never let my tank get below 1/.4 full, I was suppressed still not had any problem's since , it not difficult to remove the carpet, at the back take off the plate , remove the 4 hosed clip fittings and remove the pump and make sure it clean
