ALB_LR3/4 said:
Another day with a few false starts but no resolution.
No writing on the solenoid and on the LHD model it is on the driver side A-pillar.
I did manage to raise the suspension, but the exhaust vent solenoid is powering up at 3.7 - 3.9v. When driving I can see the exhaust valve open at 100% for around 8 seconds before I hear it release. In the garage, I can see it doing the same. I am also not getting a reading on the compressor temp. This results in the occasional fault code.
When the problem started I reset the suspension calibration to default which I believe is the first recorded reading when registered with the GAP iid.
When the suspension raised to standard the front is at 20" from wheel centre and the rear is at 18". I will follow the guided calibration routine tomorrow and see if that makes a difference. I do not have any fault codes for the ride height sensors and I am not sure that would account for the solenoid being partially grounded.
While sick of the site of it, I think I could remove the compressor in my sleep lol.
Click to expand...

hiya

hopefully the neighbours haven’t called thr local asylum to take u away, lol

know things like this can drive u insane

so a recap

have checked the connectors , inc continuity on the wires

think we’re starting to go back to the ecu and start testing there , also strange ur not getting compressor temp

I’ll have a look at a few manuals as indeed that may also help us, hope that makes sense

won’t hurt doing a calibration, rears should be higher than fronts at normal height setting

wonder if running a ground wire from the solenoid back to the ecu would help

will do some more digging and plse don’t give up as we will get there in the end but know it can make u climb the wall

have a good one mate and thks for the update
 
Also meant to ask , have you also checked the rear connectors as well , by ur drivers side rear wheel

calibration , from centre of wheel to bottom of arch in normal height

front 465mm
Rear 485mm

back should always raise first

may i ask plse have u had the suspension ecu out yet please and checked all of it’s connections

don’t know then if you’ve done a continuity test from the ecu connector wires to the relevant connectors to the pressure sensor, compressor plug , reservoir valve etc

I keep going back to a ground issue and will wait till u get some screen shot results etc

thks



9EA8142C-807B-427A-BC37-D378B93065BA.jpeg
 
Last edited:
ref the front connectors

that black wire is part of the ground to the air compressor
8650C4D1-049E-4ABA-88E3-C9276D1DBC5F.jpeg
 
Thanks for the support Gary. I will go back to the ECU tomorrow and recheck everything and remove/replace the ground connections in the footwell.
I have not checked the wiring connector by the drivers side rear wheel. Will do first thing.
Do you have a location for the front connector? I can't say I noticed a blue plug when I was in the engine bay.
To try to isolate the fault I removed the feed pins that direct connect to the solenoid. The black/white positive feed seems okay. It is 12v when connected to earth and when fully opening the vent. With nothing else connected when the system is triggered by a door or the ignition the 12v positive is activated. The black/blue negative trigger wire seems to be the issue. I am not sure if it is the fact that it is not receiving a strong ground trigger that is causing it to keep trying. Because it is not fully opening the vent you can hear it lightly puffing 5-6 times before it has built up enough pressure to trigger the normal venting action.
I will go ahead and try to calibrate as well to eliminate this. It may not be that easy with the constant faults.

I have enjoyed reading your V8 thread this evening............I will give my 2c worth when mine is behaving lol
Time to turn in for the night. Tomorrow is another day!
 
Hi mate

there should be 3 x of them as per pic, thought it easier to put the pic here to save having to go back and forth, the 3 x connectors bottom right

if it’s nots behind the headlight it should be behind the front wheel arch liner , the blue one is very important for the compressor along with that small black ground wire

also seen where the male and female of the connector ate pushed together but not continuing the signal across due to a bad pin , or broken wire just behind the waterproof inserts , so indeed with the multimeter on ohms to then check across them to ensure feed is going from one side to the other

meant to ask are u getting 5 Vdc on the pressure sensor plse

I bet you’ve already done this but did u also test across the connectors when u plugged them back together , ie using a multimeter either side to 100% check the connector is sound each side when re connected

ref the solonoid wire the ground wire indeed has to be sensed by the ecu

if I may, hunt that blue connector down first please to ensure that’s sound

I’ll see if I can get some more info on it for u

glad u liked the V8 thread, alas wanted one for years but will take my time to ensure when I do get one it’s not a junk pile

have a good one mate and speak soon

11CCBBB7-FADD-4BF8-956A-350178BC3924.jpeg
 
Will post some pics here if the connectors from the compressor back

so if u look at the pics , ref CO 781, that one send messages to the solonoid

A4329EC3-487D-4F5C-8046-F321215759D0.png
067C9074-7F52-4972-A6EF-5D7F54DAD744.png
59403DCD-97B8-484E-8340-3345831496C4.png


So from there it goes towards the front of the disco, alas either under the wheel arch behind the liner of behind it headlight

just hunting down the connector
 
E71E53A2-89A3-46F7-AF89-D3800EFF0D19.png
68D90F4D-6EA7-4778-989A-5A68B7439A30.png



So if we look at the wiring diagram u can see co781 ( pos feed on pin 1 in that connector , black and white wire , ) on the right that is the exhaust solenoid

This may be easier wire route towards ecu

Exhaust valve marked N165

positive first

positive wire is black and white on connector CO 781 pin 1

C2294 pin 9

C2293 pin 9

At ecu , connector is

C2320 pin 6

so now for the Neg/ ground side , wire is black and blue

Exhaust valve marked N165

CO781 pin 4


C2294 pin 10

C2293 pin 10

at ecu

C2320 pin 5

So indeed if u follow that through the ecu and back to the fuse 3E and indeed ensuring u have a 100% feed onwards

am srill digging for the connectors as well

hope this makes sense , lol

ps, the door stat connector is at the bottom of the wiring diagram, this is the signal wire that turns the compressor on and off as a safety feature
 
Last edited:
So, it looks like that connector instead of blue is grey ???????

If u can take some piccies please ref connectors

many thks
 
I am just getting set up to have another go today and appreciate all of the effort Gary. I have a few new areas to target. I will upload piccies later. It will help me keep track.

I have just been into the garage to fire up the radiant heater. It dipped to -11c overnight and will be getting colder this week. The forecast is between -20c - -27c. The heater keeps things workable and when cranked up has the place toastie in 30 minutes.
20200105_090154[932].jpg
 
Hi mate, the saga continues. One thing I have noticed is when I remove and replace things the suspension behaves differently. Yesterday the exhaust valve was running pretty consistently with only a couple of minutes in-between. Today not so much.
I got the suspension up to standard and did a guided recalibration. After this, I pulled fuse 26 and interestingly the rear lowered slightly and the front went up both by 1" respectively.
I will post up a couple of screenshots, but no issues with the pressure relief valve or the ride height sensors from what I can see.
I checked a lot of the wiring connections as per the diagrams. I was unable to locate the blue or grey plug, there is one nr the LH headlight that is connected into the suspension harness. it only has red and green/yellow. It is not as pictured and is a black plug.
I had a look at the wiring plug above the rear LH wheel. Not tested for continuity yet, but nothing obvious.
I unplugged the ECM and checked again. Nothing obvious. I still need to do a continuity test.
Added a wire to the blue/black wire at the ECM and connected it instead. It behaved the same but recorded at 5v instead of just under 4v as I have been seeing consistently. Not sure if that is meaningful. If the ECM is not able to provide a strong negative trigger this may result in what I am seeing with the extended negative trigger until the pressure builds up to release from the exhaust valve.
I removed and replaced all of the ground wires on the A-pillar drivers side. No obvious issues.
Right now it is at offroad height, but thinks it is standard. I have pulled fuse 26 to see what happens overnight.
I should have an hour or two Monday evening. If it has not gone down overnight I may use it as is to buy some time to figure out next steps.
I am curious if this is a new fault or something that was masked by the previous pump leaking from the drier end cap. Otherwise, it seems strange that it coincided with fitting the new pump.
Last thing I tried this evening was to swap out the relay and fusible link with the LR4. I had already swapped the relay with the engine management relay, but thought it was worth doing.
 
I hope you have a good day Gary.
 

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ALB_LR3/4 said:
Hi mate, the saga continues. One thing I have noticed is when I remove and replace things the suspension behaves differently. Yesterday the exhaust valve was running pretty consistently with only a couple of minutes in-between. Today not so much.
I got the suspension up to standard and did a guided recalibration. After this, I pulled fuse 26 and interestingly the rear lowered slightly and the front went up both by 1" respectively.
I will post up a couple of screenshots, but no issues with the pressure relief valve or the ride height sensors from what I can see.
I checked a lot of the wiring connections as per the diagrams. I was unable to locate the blue or grey plug, there is one nr the LH headlight that is connected into the suspension harness. it only has red and green/yellow. It is not as pictured and is a black plug.
I had a look at the wiring plug above the rear LH wheel. Not tested for continuity yet, but nothing obvious.
I unplugged the ECM and checked again. Nothing obvious. I still need to do a continuity test.
Added a wire to the blue/black wire at the ECM and connected it instead. It behaved the same but recorded at 5v instead of just under 4v as I have been seeing consistently. Not sure if that is meaningful. If the ECM is not able to provide a strong negative trigger this may result in what I am seeing with the extended negative trigger until the pressure builds up to release from the exhaust valve.
I removed and replaced all of the ground wires on the A-pillar drivers side. No obvious issues.
Right now it is at offroad height, but thinks it is standard. I have pulled fuse 26 to see what happens overnight.
I should have an hour or two Monday evening. If it has not gone down overnight I may use it as is to buy some time to figure out next steps.
I am curious if this is a new fault or something that was masked by the previous pump leaking from the drier end cap. Otherwise, it seems strange that it coincided with fitting the new pump.
Last thing I tried this evening was to swap out the relay and fusible link with the LR4. I had already swapped the relay with the engine management relay, but thought it was worth doing.
Click to expand...

hi mate

good to see u at least have a heater, also as a side note I’ve seen cold can cause issues

does seem strange on what the system is doing , because when I bought mine it was in a terrible mess, needed a total wire trace , replacing compressor, air tank, 3 x valve blocks , then sorting out the bodges , insulation tape etc

I started battery disconnected , finding all the connections and pulling them off everything , done continuity on each one and fixed accordingly , then as I reconnected a pair of connection used a multimeter to ensure continuity was ok on both sides, proving the pins were sound

Apologises I’m gassing again and side tracking , trouble is with the D3 there’s so many connections, / ground points hidden away , just need 1 or 2 to relay start causing spurious errors

feel the connector that at the air compressor that carries the pressure sensor and exhaust extremely important , alas the pressure sensor is ok by ur readings

sounds like u may have to start doing voltage drop tests

Bless u for the updates and can see behind the scenes so to speak youve spends endless amount of hours

there is also an extensive amount of info in the D3 forum, mainly because of those connectors which may be in a different position on the LHD LR3 , which of course the main goal is to get to the bottom of the issue

shame ur so far away as I’ve on many occasions gone out or they’ve come to me and helped where I could , never had a system beat me yet and can see ur the same

https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/

never know someone on the D3 forum may be near u, or someone has seen the same fault

will keep searching and course help all I can from this end

keep warm mate and will be interesting to see what the outcome is from the removal of the F26

like wise , have a good one mate and will of course post if I find anything new that may help
 
U saying it was ok before u replaced the compressor , were they both hitachi and is the new one a genuine one and not a cheap chinese copy

does it act differently outside and then inside with the heater

also have u checked the ground that the relay plugs Into

thks
 
Last edited:
Well Gary, I think I may be on the right track finally. Yesterday I verified that the earth and power to the control module were good and spent some time searching on the other forum you mentioned. I had looked before but not specific to the control module. I found a post that suggested adding a relay to the white and blue wires going to the solenoid. I have just temp rigged up a relay with a ground to the body providing the trigger. It looks like it will work. Tomorrow I will wire it up fully and take it for a run.

The problem would appear to be the suspension control module. Interestingly, the plug to the module that powers the exhaust valve has non-factory tape around the wires. I am wondering if this has been a problem previously.

I should be home earlier tomorrow and will hopefully have some good news to report.

If the relay does the job it will buy me some time to locate a used control module or wait to pick one up when I am back in the UK for a visit this summer.

Thanks for all of the advice and support mate.
 
ALB_LR3/4 said:
Well Gary, I think I may be on the right track finally. Yesterday I verified that the earth and power to the control module were good and spent some time searching on the other forum you mentioned. I had looked before but not specific to the control module. I found a post that suggested adding a relay to the white and blue wires going to the solenoid. I have just temp rigged up a relay with a ground to the body providing the trigger. It looks like it will work. Tomorrow I will wire it up fully and take it for a run.

The problem would appear to be the suspension control module. Interestingly, the plug to the module that powers the exhaust valve has non-factory tape around the wires. I am wondering if this has been a problem previously.

I should be home earlier tomorrow and will hopefully have some good news to report.

If the relay does the job it will buy me some time to locate a used control module or wait to pick one up when I am back in the UK for a visit this summer.

Thanks for all of the advice and support mate.
Click to expand...

hi mate

Am well chuffed mate , as at the end of the day with the collective information here and there the end result is getting ur landy fixed

It did seem that earth wasn’t getting the right signal back to ensure the correct Vdc was sent to ensure the 100% opening and closing of the solonoid and not just partially

happy days and indeed Plse let us know how u get on

I’m trying to remember if u have to sync a new EAS ecu , but do know the iid is capable toward resync if so required

if u get chance would mind u taking some piccies of the relay temp install or do a drawing please of the wire layout plse, just for future as that will be a good one to remember

must admit have seen that thread ref the relay and always good to learn new things

have a good one mate and again we’ll done or to really make u cringe , “ Good job” , lmao
 
Looks like a second hand job mate for the ecu as a new one is around £400 quid

there’s a set up sequence fitting a used one, pretty sure I saw it on the D3 forum, ref having to get the vin number backed up first then copying it over to the used replacement one

second hand there around £50-75

I’ll try and find it

also have u got a full parts manual link for ur D3, if not plse let me know and will find the link for u
 
ref second hand ecu,

u may also have to re calibrate ur suspension , make sure it’s not one from a sport of D4

go to the BCM menu and select sync ecu's with Ipack, this then puts your vin back in the ecu of the second hand one , EASecu , ur vin should now be in the replacement
 
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