R

Redman

New Member
Year 2000 Disco 2 V8i Auto. 3 main issues, which I'd be grateful for advice on (before I decide whether to go local dealer or local disco repairman). Vehicle suffered major front end problem 18 months ago, which led to (a) new gearbox; (b) recon block and heads. All well until recently:

1. Drive (clutch?) judder when engage gear. Most acute if hold the car on the brakes against even tickover. Seems to ease off a bit once gets warmer, but always present nevertheless, and too bad to ignore. Gearbox? Torque Converter? Something else?

2. Ticking noise from engine. At first I thought an exhaust gasket (LH manifold?) issue (originally most noticeable when revvving but little or nothing on lift off); but now noticeable pretty much all the time. Does lessen / disappear a bit on throttle lift off, but still present. Tappets? Camshaft?

3. And most peculiarly, also sounds as if exhaust is blowing (ie holed). But have had up on ramp and can see / feel no sign of leak. seems to be coming from area of near-side catayltic convertor - took off heatshield but still nothing to see. Suggestion from local man that could be that cat has collapsed internally in some way ...... Any ideas? I'm stumped.

Appreciate views on any / all of above.

regards

Redman
 
My exhaust (D2 V8) is also louder than usual with no obvious leaks/holes and I have a ticking noise under load as well which someone has suggested may be the cat as well so the two could be linked.

Cant help with the judder though it sounds as though the clutch isn't disengaging properly
 
Hadn't thought about it being linked to exhaust / cat. May well be. Anyone else any ideas? Now looking at replacing down pipes incl cats. Would straight through be legal / OK for MOT?

Any other comments welcomed.
 
Will fail MOT without cats unless your running gas. Ticking noise sounds like exhaust manifold gasket to me.
 
i take it that you have an auto. if so what state in the auto transmission fluid in may ne changing. Also it could be that the filters in the auto box sump needs replacing
 
Thanks for inputs. Have decided to start by fixing known issue(s) with exhaust and see if can eliminate at lesat some of the rest of it. There is certainly a leak on the LH manifold/down (Y) pipe gasket (checked it yesterday) and the LH cat is also completely shot.

So to replace the Y pipe and cats: which brings me to the vexed Q of how to source reasonably. I'm in Belgium which is not exactly awash with Disco parts!

Any advice on (a) reputable UK breaker; (b) good UK or other source for after-market item? Am certainly not putting a new replacement item on an 11 year old D2! Web trawl seems to be indicating up to £8-900 even for after market .....
 
Redman,

If you go to breakers you are not going to get a guarrantee on quality or condition. I used to work for one and it is false economy particularly as you are located outside of UK. Best search for good quality aftermarket items or pattern parts. Many UK companies will ship abroad into mainland europe with no issues failing that I have heard trucking companies putting small courier loads on the back of their trucks.

As for the gearbox. If its a manual then you may have an issue with the Dual Mass flywheel or oil getting on the Clutch friction surface. This dirt/oil can come from Rear oild seal or even off roading with no wading plug in the bell housing.

Replacing a clutch on the TD5 means also replacing the flywheel too.

If its an automatic then you are probably suffering from dirty oil and sedment in the gearbox sump, I think someone already mentioned that.

Hope it helps.
 
So: now have nice new down pipe with cats (Allways), and sounds great.

Also checked TF Box fluid level - OK; and gearbox (auto - OK). Have checked props / U/Js - seem good.

But still getting loud "ticking" noise from what seems to be top of engine at idle, which varies with engine speed but does seem to ease off if lift revs up to 2000+. Also get major vibration at idle, and again most evident at about 50mph, but at higher speeds (not that I'm doing anything speedy until get this sorted) it seems to ease off again; similarly if accelerate hard the vib seems to disappear; and it is pretty much gone on over-run.

Have tried various combination of Diff Lock in H/L/N etc, also auto box in P / N, but vibration very much evident whatever the combination.

Any ideas? Camshaft? Something in the Head? Injectors?

G
 
Got what sounds like ticking tappets on ours, what sort of a job is it to adjust them?, or are they even adjustable? Got a haynes manual for it.. but this numpty got the one for a TD5 not the V8 :doh: didn't realise till I couldn't find anything about the engine, then read the front cover 'does not cover petrol engine models' :doh:

Don't mean to hi-jack your thread mate, but as I have similar symptoms :hijacked:... :D
 
no they are hydraulic,need to remove inlet manifold to replace all 16 check each cam lobe,they are prone to wear
 
Have spent a further 2 hours in and around / below engine. Thanks for commnet on drive plate and torque converter, but that's probably a bit too much for me - and anyway (see below) whatever it is does seem to be engine related rather than drive train.

Tightened exhaust manifold bolts (2 were loose); re-checked auto gearbox ATF level (but have not looked at filter since oil looks nice and clear, and we're talking about a 2 year old replacement box from LR anyway).

"Ticking" is now more of a rythmic (in time with engine) "chuff-chuff-chuff-chuff" which increases in speed as rise from tickover; but which seems to disappear at higher revs. Have put a dowel to the heads and rocker cover - seems louder on driver's side.

Tried a Stall Test a per RAVE: got 1900 instead of the expected 2200-2400, so would seem to be low on power.

Have not pulled plugs.

Any last ideas before I head to Landrover Dealer?

Redman
 
PS to my last: vibration on pull away and / or load is very much still there. Seems to disappear on over-run / downhill but makes vehicle almost undrivable.
 
there should be a plate bottom of bell housing to check t.c plate and bolts,a new gear box however old shouldnt be ruled out during diagnoses,otherwise you wouldnt need warrenty,replace exhaust manifold gaskets tightening wont be enough also check rear doughnut on prop
 
OK: still not back on the road - and instead of "symptoms", now seem to have found source of problem. Left hand bank compression test failed on #5; on head removal, gasket badly worn at #5. Head now skimmed etc; but on rebuild, found that head bolt between #3 and #5 would not torque down. Removed head and inspected: worn thread in block. Mechanic suspects last time rebuilt (recon short block and heads 2 years ago) this was "overlooked".

So 2 Qs:

(1) Will helicoiling or similar have the desired effect? Or should I drill out and rethread / use larger bolt?

(2) Any thoughts on how I can demonstarte negligence on part of garage (Main Dealer) that carried out rebuild last time?

Comments appreciated, as ever.

Redman
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

N
Discovery auto gerabox issues
Replies
19
Views
1K
marjon
marjon
D
Freelander 2 wobble/judder
Replies
19
Views
2K
Danger Steve
D
A
Help D3 Suspension
Replies
3
Views
414
Andrew bibby
A
Q
Freelander 2 leaking exhaust fumes
Replies
5
Views
2K
kermit_rr
kermit_rr
C
Disco 3 2.7 tdv6 wont start 😬
9 10 11
Replies
214
Views
19K
tyregeezer
tyregeezer