UPDATE did all the suggestions and now it wont even start on easy start just cranks slight fuel smell in exhaust nit a lot though. So still stumped and so is the 4x4 and landrover garages near me.

Hiya I have a 04 disco 2 td5 auto.

How it started was driving then it just completely shut off no stuttering or any signs it was going to shut off before it did and it's not started since.

It's had new fuel pump got a new pressure regulator to put on but I'm not sure that's the issue as there is no leaking of fuel or anything. Ecu is fine ect it's just not starting and it's got me baffled and also have a couple landy specialist baffled as no codes come up on the nanocom ether.

The fuel pump primes ect and you can hear it but it's like there isn't enough fuel getting into the engine so it won't start im at a complete loss.
 
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It needs proper diagnosis with a Nanocom or similar, but it is very weird that it suddenly stopped dead. That doesn't usually happen.
Have you checked that the fuel shut off on the bulkhead, passenger side, designed to stop the engine in the case of an accident , hasn't actuated?
 
Yeah it's had a nanocom put on it twice and nothing has came up so we are baffled. Yeah checked that and it's fine so are the wires. Even checked xyz switch and that's all fine too aswell as checking all the wires from ecu through the landy.

Yeah it just stopped dead it was the strangest thing especially with no sign or anything it was going to do that.
 
...a couple landy specialist baffled as no codes come up on the nanocom ether.
for a non starter a specialist should have checked with nanocom the live rpm reading while cranking cos a sudden crank sensor failure can stop the engine while running then the ECU has not enough time to detect a code as it logs fault codes only while the engine is running ... if the cranking rpm is ok(around 250 rpm) start the engine with spray and see the other readings in those few seconds while it's running on spray... so
1. is there proper rpm input while cranking or not?
2. are the injectors clicking in test mode?

can you answer to 1 and 2? if the answer is yes for both we'll speak again, if not better find a real specialist who knows how to diagnose a non starting Td5
 
for a non starter a specialist should have checked with nanocom the live rpm reading while cranking cos a sudden crank sensor failure can stop the engine while running then the ECU has not enough time to detect a code as it logs fault codes only while the engine is running ... if the cranking rpm is ok(around 250 rpm) start the engine with spray and see the other readings in those few seconds while it's running on spray... so
1. is there proper rpm input while cranking or not?
2. are the injectors clicking in test mode?

can you answer to 1 and 2? if the answer is yes for both we'll speak again, if not better find a real specialist who knows how to diagnose a non starting Td5
Yeah they plugged the nanocom in while they were cranking it and nothing popped up i have put a new crank sensor in just incase it was that but still nothing.

The reason I thought it was a fueling issue originally was because it starts when using easy start but that doesn't explain the sudden shut off while driving and it dies off within a few seconds on easy start too.

The rpm is at about 250 they said. As for the injectors yeah they make a clicking sound.

Had the ecu out and checked it and it's completely fine and the ecu port and wires leading to it are clean.
 
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So just to be clear, it starts on spray and it becomes driveable then after some driving it cuts out and absolutely no fault codes logged? if it's so and the fuel pressure was confirmed to be around 4 bar with a gauge instead of the FT sensor in the FPR i'd replace the injector copper washers cos they are very suspect. Without fault codes for this symptom the circuit to the fuel pump must be checked to not have an intermittent interruption(which can be in the fusebox too)
 
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So just to be clear, it starts on spray and it becomes driveable then after some driving it cuts out and absolutely no fault codes logged? if it's so and the fuel pressure was confirmed as OK(around 4 bar) with a gauge instead of the FT sensor in the FPR i'd replace the injector copper washers cos they are very suspect. Without fault codes for this symptom the circuit to the fuel pump must be checked to not have an intermittent interruption(which can be in the fusebox too)
It doesn't drive as soon as you go to move off or even think about it, it dies it only survives on easy start for a couple seconds then goes back to just cranking.

New fuel pressure regulator is apparently working fine. I'll get some copper washers and try that. Fuel pump is working and priming ect checked all fuse boxes and fuses non are corroded or covered in oil.

That's the part that's annoying me the fact I can't get any codes up so I can atleast work my way through them.
 
As long as the rpm reading WHILE cranking is around 250 and there is 4 bar in the FPR(this must be measured with gauge to be 100% sure) can you feel any diesel smell at the exhaust? also would be good to see the battery voltage while cranking cos if it drops below 10.5V it will not start while it can crank well even at 8V left
 
As long as the rpm reading WHILE cranking is around 250 and there is 4 bar in the FPR(this must be measured with gauge to be 100% sure) can you feel any diesel smell at the exhaust? also would be good to see the battery voltage while cranking cos if it drops below 10.5V it will not start while it can crank well even at 8V left
Ill have to see if I can get hold of a multimeter and check but I know cranking it is draining it so I have to put it on charge for the rest of the day and night.

Can smell a little bit of it but can't see it if that makes sense there also isn't any diesel liquid coming or dripping out of the exhaust.

It's no longer at the garage it's on my drive after getting trailered.

I have unclipped the fuel pipe going into the engine and fuel is coming out of it when cranking if that makes any difference.
 
Ill have to see if I can get hold of a multimeter and check but I know cranking it is draining it so I have to put it on charge for the rest of the day and night.

Can smell a little bit of it but can't see it if that makes sense there also isn't any diesel liquid coming or dripping out of the exhaust.

It's no longer at the garage it's on my drive after getting trailered.

I have unclipped the fuel pipe going into the engine and fuel is coming out of it when cranking if that makes any difference.
It might be an idea to connect up a jumpstart, or from another running vehicle, to it while cranking, if that makes it start and continue to run, that might tell you something.
Conversely, if not, it would eliminate the battery.
 
Multimeters can be had off Amazon etc for only about £10. Cheap and VERY useful.
Best of luck with this, it'd be driving me round the bend if mine did this!:(
 
It might be an idea to connect up a jumpstart, or from another running vehicle, to it while cranking, if that makes it start and continue to run, that might tell you something.
Conversely, if not, it would eliminate the battery.
Ill try this is don't actually know why I didn't think of that. Thank you ill go try that now and let you know.

Yeah it's driving me round the bend too I have had a few discos and always managed to fix them and get them running but this one definitely has me baffled.
 
When you start the purging mode with the 5 throttlle method and the EML starts flashing can you hear a noticeable intermittent hissing sound from the FPR area?
 
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When you start the purging mode with the 5 throttlle method and the EML starts flashing can you hear a noticeable intermittent hissing sound from the FPR area?
I can hear the pump and a wurring sound that intermittently stops and starts untill eml light turns its self off but no hissing what type off hissing like an air leak hissing or is that the wurring i hear.
 

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