MechanIX

MechanIX

Member
Happy New Year everybody at Landy Zone !

We got an issue with our diff lock on our 110, most of our trips happen on tarmac at standard speed, so we use unlock High, which suddenly disengaged at high speed on the motorway.

Now we can only shift into Locked L or H.

We tried reversing and switching back to Unlocked without (and with) clutching, no luck wether L or H.

Today we dismantled the gear stick tunnel, to check if the shifting assembly was corroded or seized, but it all looked pretty neat to me; however, we cannot seem to reach the unlock position when using the lever.

20210110_152929.jpg

So we used a 13 spanner to play on the nut, but it feels like it's not rotating enough, it moved a bit further but the diff is still completely disengaged, no wheels turning...

20210110_154513.jpg


What do you think? What should I try / check?

Many thanks for your help.
 
Have you tried jacking one wheel slightly off the ground? It won't come out of diff lock if the transmission is wound up.
Alternatively, if you are out and about, bumping a front wheel up and down a kerb can unwind the transmission.
You can't force it in or out of diff lock as the internal locking collar is spring-loaded.
 
Are you saying that the land rover will drive in lock and not drive in the unlock [ open] position? The centre diff lock has no neutral position it is either in or out. Only the high low part has a neutral.
 
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Well in that case the chances are a half shaft broken, a drive flange on the hub has striped its splines or less likely an axle diff or C/V has broken.
To find where the problem is jack each wheel in turn keeping the centre diff in locked position. If the wheel turns a bit then probably ok, If it turns freely then the problem is in that axle.
There are good videos on you tube that show how the defender 4wd system works so you can understand it. I could try making a link but Gawd knows what you will end up watching, perhaps another forum member can help.
 
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MechanIX said:
@Rougharse Racing : I haven't tried yet. Will give it a go and let you know.

@tottot: Yes indeed, this is what I'm saying. Oh yeah, there is no neutral? Well, it's in a no man's land position then...
Click to expand...

Are you getting confused between the difflock and high and low ratios? You can have the high/low selector in a “neutral” position, and the vehicle won’t drive.
 
had the same problem with mine and just fixed it at the wk end.
if you take the 13mm nut off the transfer box and pear shaped connector plate you should with a spanner be able to rotate lock / un lock diff.
if this is free all good.
check for play in all connections.
the bolt which connects the bar to the selector stick should be firm not over tight.
at the pivot point of the arm there are 2 plastic bushes check the condition of these. the connection all round the pivot should firm not be sloppy.
since you've got the tunnel out the adjustment is easy, done mine with it in and a right pig.
to get more or less throw you need to wind the pivot arm in or out. reassembly and check. repeat until you get a good throw both ways. NOTE. before checking each time all fixes should be tight.
only rotate half turn at a time.
the more worn parts and play the harder it will be.
replaced the complete arm, pivot, bushes and clips. was about £70 for all the parts
 
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From what I understand MechanIX is saying he has drive in the lock position but not when centre diff is open. May not be so.:confused:
 
Lifted it up, not good news I'm afraid.

Vehicle on the ground. LH side front wheel:
20210113_123736.jpg


Lifted up:
20210113_125738.jpg


There was no catch back on play at all; no wind up effect I'm afraid. The scary part is that the wheel is completely free with a gear engaged, haven't checked the other side yet.

I haven't checked the level yet, and just having nightmares about the snow ball effects on the whole drive train...

Those spanners seem pretty special, haven't got them handy... Would someone had the reference and appropriate torque, I got new seals already, I was planning to do this as detected a small leakage a while back... Lesson learnt again, never wait when you see sh*t happening.
 
So is it that way you found the ball housing to axle bolts .You did not loosen them [ just checking.] Spanner needed is just a normal multi point ring.
Just to confirm all other wheels are on the ground and the prop shaft from the gear box does not turn when you spin the wheel?
The wheel would be free to turn if centre diff is not in the locked position. If diff not locked then have someone hold it in lock while you spin wheel.
 
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Just bolted in back, didn't know the torque; so really went for it, refilled, as it was near to empty o_O. Still no luck with the Unlocked mode, and obviously the scary part are the front wheels absolutely free (still haven't checked right front wheel though, but assuming the same). Something's broken in there.
 
No way to put a torque wrench on those bolts anyway, the right size ring spanner leaned on does the job. When you get around to doing the seal on the ball housing put bolts back with thread lock.
It is likely a snapped half shaft or splines in the drive flange, [ could be either side ] start by removing the flange's and taking a look, no need to even remove the wheel. Some good you tube video's covering the 90/110 front axle. Worth a look to help you figure things out.
 
I would probably go drive flange for a start easy to remove and not too bad to replace cost wise. broken drive shaft could be a mission, depending on where it is broken

The Rob & Vic Clip strips outside to in
Mike at Brittania has the lot off in one go
 
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