Trewey

Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.
Got a fair bit of clonkin going on underneath.

I can see that the front UJ on the front prop has excessive play and I'm going to replace that. There's also up/down and side to side movement on the front diff input flange.
Is it possible to change the diff input bearing in situ, or do I need to strip the diff out to do that? (or even replace the whole diff?).

I've looked at RAVE and Paynes, but it aint clear.

Some diagrams show the bearing being fitted from the inside, whilst others show it being fitted from the outside. :confused:

It's a 93 200TDi Deepender by the way.

Thanks muchly in advance.
 
problem you have got trewy is getting the old race out, would be better with the diff out of the axle and the the diff assembley removed from the casting
 
doesn't the nose bearing have a collapsible tube to supply pre-load to the input bearing and shaft? I wouldn't think it is an in-situ job, but having said that, I remember Slob saying if you re-use the collapsible tube then it should give you similar preload.

So in answer to your Q, I think it might be possible to change the nose bearing, but how good a job it would be, is another story.
 
Looking at the diagrams in RAVE, there doesn't seem to be a collapsible tube or anything.

I've seen a "how to" somewhere (can't find the fooker now though) that shows replacing the T/F Box output bearing in situ. I was rather hoping it would be similar.

I wouldn't mind so much if it were the rear diff, but if I pull the front diff, I'm gonna end up doin me CV joints and swivels as well. I don't want a big job like that at the mo!
 
doesn't the nose bearing have a collapsible tube to supply pre-load to the input bearing and shaft? I wouldn't think it is an in-situ job, but having said that, I remember Slob saying if you re-use the collapsible tube then it should give you similar preload.

So in answer to your Q, I think it might be possible to change the nose bearing, but how good a job it would be, is another story.


that wur on me jag where it has to be torqued up so that yer require abart 5lbs/ft to take up the freeplay which equates to tightening the nut to about 50 hundred thousand lbs/ft.
so i just tightened it up to remove any endplay and gave it a tweek fer goodluck . so far after abart 8,000 miles is still ok.
 

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