You can't run a Champagne car for Lemonade prices unfortunately.
You can't run a Champagne car for Lemonade prices unfortunately.
More like heroin addict
JohnnyCrash
New Member
just a quick read through this leads me to think that the FIP has or is giving up
quickest fix is to replace the middle section with a second hand working one, the other solution is to replace the pump with a new one. Ask your self how much is the car worth though!
quickest fix is to replace the middle section with a second hand working one, the other solution is to replace the pump with a new one. Ask your self how much is the car worth though!
And what pray leads you to that conclusion?
JohnnyCrash
New Member
same fault on mine, each time replaced the mid section of the FIP and went away
Datatek
Well-Known Member
But you knackered yours with black diesel
But you knackered yours with black diesel
Doesn't mean the pump isn't knackered by other means.
Is isn't so much the champagne, it is whether this one has had its day and I should get another and merge or drop a new engine in or maybe just do up an old 4.0 I saw abandoned on a drive nearby with the parts ...
JohnnyCrash
New Member
But you knackered yours with black diesel
doesn't change the fact that it was still that item that went tits up and caused that fault does it??
the FIP pumps come up on eBay from time to time I've picked a few up for pennies but now they seem to be commanding much more so the days of
"it's knackered again, swap it out" are long gone you need to take care of what you have!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
It changes it in the sense that if you were not abusing the FIP it may never have failed.
The pump is retarded needs static timing correcting to bring the modulation down to 45 to 55% at idle engine warm. Grrrr's Nanocom is not showing a fuel quantity problem which would be corrected by changing the mid section. The timing solenoid is in the bottom of the pump and cannot be effected by changing the mid section which controls fuel quantity NOT timing.
Just spoken to the missus. Says it has performed flawlessly this morning. Odd that the issue only ever turns up when the weather goes over 20 degrees C. Of course, that could just be coincidence.
Regardless of anything else that timing adjustment needs to be done. I just wish the bl**dy problem would stick around long enough to work out if we've fixed it or not! I don't want to wait another year for a hot day!
Regardless of anything else that timing adjustment needs to be done. I just wish the bl**dy problem would stick around long enough to work out if we've fixed it or not! I don't want to wait another year for a hot day!
JohnnyCrash
New Member
just speaking from my experience
I've replaced the complete pump in the past (during head and chain change) then just the mid section (more than once) to keep it alive
all in all not worth it!
Feeding ****e through it will catch up on you eventually, you were told that a long time ago. Timing modulation, which is what Grrrr has the problem with unless his Nanocom is knackered, CANNOT be altered by changing the mid section of the pump. Mind you there are plenty on here who have possibly spent daft money trying to sort out an EAS problem, when cleaning the contacts on the multi plugs in the EAS box was all that was needed. Do you get my drift?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Apart from the modulation needing sorting, there are other things that may stop the engine, a dodgy connection to the ELAB, possibly even a duff in tank pump if the fuel is low.
It's a minor problem compared to dropped liners on a V8 and your fuel saving using diesel will recoup your costs in a fairly short time.
It's a minor problem compared to dropped liners on a V8 and your fuel saving using diesel will recoup your costs in a fairly short time.
Anyone can look at a live trace, it's knowing what it means that is the tricky part.
Too true! Helps to have an idea of normal though.
The more I think back and mull things over the more I think there is a temperature element to this. It has happened many times on very hot days in the past 2 years. I'm sure I've read of other people pouring cold water on the fuel pump to get it working too.
I think there is more than 1 issue here. I think the static timing is way off mark, probably due to chain stretch and never being changed.
On top of that I suspect the pump electronics are starting to get old and in hot weather are not working 100%, maybe missing some calculation of some sort. When no value is forthcoming it reverts back to some sort of default value but because the chain is so far out it cannot find one assumes something is seriously wrong and out of range and stalls.
If any of the above is true (!) then redoing static timing may for a short time fix the stalling in hot weather but sooner of later the pump electronics will give up the ghost and fail completely. Similarly, the chain can only stretch so far before that goes with a bang so that will need doing eventually too.
The DMF is another matter. Some people blame it for rough idle. I find it hard to see a mechanism. However, many people report a rough sounding engine or loud engine or engine full of rattling spanners and a few reported clutch-slip behavior like I had last autumn. I certainly think the diesel is loud when I get in but my main car is a Jag and everything sounds a bit rough after driving that. If it it loud and the clutch slip becomes evident then I suspect that will need replacing. Don't hear of many people on here asking about though, albeit most drive automatics and most are younger cars than mine.
One step at a time though. First off static timing. Later on maybe pump. If I do the pump I might as well go the whole hog and do all the chains etc. Then we'll wait and see if the DMF fails spectacularly!
Something to look forward to!
To be honest the car doesn't go far, mainly short journeys and diesels aren't that efficient when cold. The 4.0 I referred to has LPG on it so about the same cost in fuel. The dropped liner is something that does put me off.
I've pretty much made my mind up, I'm going to try and fix the turbo-wheezel one step at a time.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
DMF failure on the Transit made it sound like a bag of spanners, rough idle, shagged the starter motor by filling it with dust and made gear shift very difficult. I fitted a solid flywheel, I believe the same can be done on the m51, it was a fraction of the cost of a new DMF
DMF failure on the Transit made it sound like a bag of spanners, rough idle, shagged the starter motor by filling it with dust and made gear shift very difficult. I fitted a solid flywheel, I believe the same can be done on the m51, it was a fraction of the cost of a new DMF
Would that not be a bit noisier and more vibration? Thought DMF was fitted because too much vibration was coming up through to gearbox etc?
Thinking about it, I don't remember the Omega 2.5TDs being as noisy. Wonder if they had DMF. May have to ask someone!
