tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Fixing the viscous fan you mean
Can you turn the fan when engine is cold and stopped. Should be stiffish then free off.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Is your belt/tensioner turning the pump efficiently/smoothly?
So go over again what you have done. New parts fitted Etc.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Wammers has a brand new OE right next to him!
First person pay rimmers prices gets it .... bet it’s still there
tarphenry
Well-Known Member
Exchanged cylinder head for a tested crack free head, fitted head as per rave and the car has done about 3000 miles with no problems. new metal impeller water pump new o/e thermostat new rad and fan about 18months ago engine runs smooth no faults showing on Nanocom Cleaned intercooler and inlet manifold.Fault occurred after a 5 or 6 mile drive temp went up to r/h white line , then stays there then drops back then rises again. I fee it must be circulatory problem
Wammers has a brand new OE right next to him!
First person pay rimmers prices gets it .... bet it’s still there
This is true.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
You also did head sensors iirc
As said earlier look at the rad. If it's hot across the top but cool at the bottom it has no baffle.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Check rad baffle with marble test (it could be only partially there enough to stop a marble), drain plug, usual inspection and flush if refitting.
I’d check stat while you’re there is only 3bolts.
I’d check stat while you’re there is only 3bolts.
There are rads out there that do not have the baffle. Without one they are useless.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Ye they cocked this design up a bit. Hot water comes in top right, is forced down around (by a small plateCan somebody please explain why.
How, Hot water in the top, Cold water out the top was ever a good idea?
just sounds stupid to me
generally the rule for hot water/cool water is hot is top cool is bottom it’s not rocket science
j
) then back up left into engine. The stat is after the rad too? I’d have put it before so rad kicks in after it’s warmed
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
I’m only 9 years older than my P38 Makes more sense?? beneficial to the cause
Oil cooling rad is at the bottom of the manual’s main rad too has its pros and cons. An oil cooler on a standard ‘95 is pretty good tech I think, integrated I’m not so sure.
First thing I did was rebuild my cooling system when I didn’t have a clue. TarpHenry and Wammers showed me how. I can trick my engine into over cooling too if need be since doing the metal pump/drivetrain
Makes more sense?? beneficial to the causeOil cooling rad is at the bottom of the manual’s main rad too has its pros and cons. An oil cooler on a standard ‘95 is pretty good tech I think, integrated I’m not so sure.
First thing I did was rebuild my cooling system when I didn’t have a clue. TarpHenry and Wammers showed me how. I can trick my engine into over cooling too if need be since doing the metal pump/drivetrain
Datatek
Well-Known Member
It was done because the clearance to the aircon pump pulley is tight for a bottom entry, however the GEMS V8 RAD can be persuaded to fit, a mod that I will be trying soon. It has been done by a guy in NZ and it makes a big difference to cooling in high ambient temperatures.Can somebody please explain why.
How, Hot water in the top, Cold water out the top was ever a good idea?
just sounds stupid to me
generally the rule for hot water/cool water is hot is top cool is bottom it’s not rocket science
j
