Maybe just the regulator and brushes, worth a try rather than an alternator.
Maybe just the regulator and brushes, worth a try rather than an alternator.
kapilamuni
Active Member
Removed the altenator to see that it was fitted only with one bolt. Bottom bolt was just there without going through the alternator. Send it to an autoelectrician whosays diode pack, regulator n the cioil burnt. Got a simillar thing from a BMW , used part. So unfortunate, that I can,t get it fitted with both bolts. If I align the top bolt holes the bottom ones are out same with otherway round.
Here is a picture
Old one
What i bought
Your views pls.
Here is a picture
Old one
What i bought
Your views pls.
kapilamuni
Active Member
Yes, I guess that it was the wrong alt n since I bought a smillar thing (delphi) I will have to live with it. So, to rest the alt issue I hv fitted the one I bought too with only the top most bolt n tightened . It runs okay. But alt in the wish list. Can someone post picture of exact model alterntor pls?
Now back to my timing chain / inj pump issue.
Without dismantling everything is there a way to verify how stretched the timing chains are? I mean that if chains are on the verge of being broken, I should not even start it.
Now back to my timing chain / inj pump issue.
Without dismantling everything is there a way to verify how stretched the timing chains are? I mean that if chains are on the verge of being broken, I should not even start it.
I have already explained this, you cannot check the bottom chain at all unless you strip it down. But if you can move the pump all the way towards the engine and still have 94% modulation. Either the timing solenoid is not working at all. The pump has an internal problem. The chain is badly stretched and maybe close to breaking which would also put cam timing out. Or it has jumped a tooth which would also put cam timing out as well as pump timing. The fault code could be a result of any of these scenarios. You may have a combination of a couple of problems and it really needs looking at. A picture of an alternator may not tell you anything but mine is fitted with a Valeo unit. May not be any help but here is a photo.
Amazon product
kapilamuni
Active Member
Appreciate yr help Wammers. I'm just trying to run it for at least another 6 months till my cash flow improves.
With the turbo repair it was down for more than two months. It's my daily runner.
How can I check the timing solenoid? Nanocom has an option under DDE - outputs for this. But no idea how to.
Thanks for the picture it clearly shows what my car was fitted with an alternator, something not going with it. The smaller wire connector is not fitted with a nut. Instead it has a 4 connector clip though only one wire goes in. It shows that PO (I ,m the second owner) would have fitted this as the original one is not easy to source here. It's my mistake to follow him blindly without checking. I paid about 200 USD for the used part that I installed with a single bolt.
With the turbo repair it was down for more than two months. It's my daily runner.
How can I check the timing solenoid? Nanocom has an option under DDE - outputs for this. But no idea how to.
Thanks for the picture it clearly shows what my car was fitted with an alternator, something not going with it. The smaller wire connector is not fitted with a nut. Instead it has a 4 connector clip though only one wire goes in. It shows that PO (I ,m the second owner) would have fitted this as the original one is not easy to source here. It's my mistake to follow him blindly without checking. I paid about 200 USD for the used part that I installed with a single bolt.
kapilamuni
Active Member
Nanocom says that a click will be heard knce the timing solenoid is activated but I couldnt hear it with the engine noice. In case the timing solenoid is out of order should not nanocom say so? At the same time, the modulation should be zero as the timing solenoid can,t respond to ECU command for timing adjustment, me think.
However, at present I use thd car , no CIL, but a slight power loss. It start on the button when cold n gtakes 6 to 8 turns when hot (indicating that timing solenoid functions).
Regds
However, at present I use thd car , no CIL, but a slight power loss. It start on the button when cold n gtakes 6 to 8 turns when hot (indicating that timing solenoid functions).
Regds
Just switch the ignition on to check timing solenoid, NOT with engine running. It IS saying so in a roundabout way by reporting modulation above expected range. But as stated before there could be several reasons for that along with a malfunction of timing solenoid. You may have a combination of problems not just one. Don't think you have quite been listening to previous scenarios.
kapilamuni
Active Member
Checked the timing solenoid as instructed. No ticking at all. Time to replace it. Must be expensive. Can i know the part number please?
Regds
Regds
The part number should be on it. Maybe Bosch 0281002117. Check the connections and wiring to it first of all. Plug is just below rear of pump clipped to the engine mounting bracket.
Should it tick? I thought it was all electronic gubbins but I must admit I am somewhat out of my depth here. My understanding was that the pump had a certain timing as given by the timing chain but it could advance or retard the start of injection using an electronic device in the top of the pump (with inputs supplied by various sensors such as the #4 injector). I think the click will be the relays for the glow-plugs or possibly the stop-solenoid but that is just a guess. I don't hear a click on mine above the noise of the TC light coming on and all the other pumps and whatever doing their stuff.
Top of pump controls fuelling nothing to do with timing. Timing is adjusted by timing solenoid in bottom of pump. With ignition on and using Nanocom timing solenoid should tick when test function is selected.
kapilamuni
Active Member
Sorry guys, I made a mistake. The timing solenoid realy is ticking when activated through Nanocom.
I did not notice it as I was trying to feel the ticking by touching it while my wife was operating the Nanocom.Though I did not feel or hear it my son heard a ticking continously. So read the Nanocom instructions which says it will tick for 30 seconds when activated via Nanocom.Also I was wondering how it,s not working as the hot start kit functions now as it should indicating that forced cold start advance is working. That means the solenoid should function.
Again tested it today evening n it ticks. So timing solenoid is okay.
So to recap,
* car starts on the button when cold n starts after 6 to 8 turns when hot
* it seems very sluggish now.
* engine seems to have a ,'hurried note' at idle while indicated to be at 750RPM ( noice matches to that of about 1000RPM). Not diesel clatter.
* low economy at about 5KM a ltre
* the cabin has a kind of resonation (hope this is the correct word) which was not there. Not the kind of engine/gearbox mount failure.
* when fully warmed the temp gauge indicates 5 to 12 and it takes time to reach that. But the car used to reach the max temp within 2-3 minutes and indicted temp slightly above 12' oclock, normally.
Your views appreciated.
I did not notice it as I was trying to feel the ticking by touching it while my wife was operating the Nanocom.Though I did not feel or hear it my son heard a ticking continously. So read the Nanocom instructions which says it will tick for 30 seconds when activated via Nanocom.Also I was wondering how it,s not working as the hot start kit functions now as it should indicating that forced cold start advance is working. That means the solenoid should function.
Again tested it today evening n it ticks. So timing solenoid is okay.
So to recap,
* car starts on the button when cold n starts after 6 to 8 turns when hot
* it seems very sluggish now.
* engine seems to have a ,'hurried note' at idle while indicated to be at 750RPM ( noice matches to that of about 1000RPM). Not diesel clatter.
* low economy at about 5KM a ltre
* the cabin has a kind of resonation (hope this is the correct word) which was not there. Not the kind of engine/gearbox mount failure.
* when fully warmed the temp gauge indicates 5 to 12 and it takes time to reach that. But the car used to reach the max temp within 2-3 minutes and indicted temp slightly above 12' oclock, normally.
Your views appreciated.
I cannot add anything further to what has already been said. IF you have the pump pushed over towards the engine so it will not go any further and you still have 94% modulation at idle hot something is seriously wrong. Either the pump has a serious internal fail or the bottom chain has slipped a tooth.
kapilamuni
Active Member
Yes something seriouly wrong.
But tell me if the bottom chain has slipped a tooth will the car start that easily. Should not it be struggling to start?
Anyway, it seems that I need to look at the chains.
Btw, can you explain ' injection set point' and 'injection actual degrees', pls?
Also, could functions internal to the timing solenoid be checked, i mean the real actuation
Regds
But tell me if the bottom chain has slipped a tooth will the car start that easily. Should not it be struggling to start?
Anyway, it seems that I need to look at the chains.
Btw, can you explain ' injection set point' and 'injection actual degrees', pls?
Also, could functions internal to the timing solenoid be checked, i mean the real actuation
Regds
Here read. http://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads/1392441584.pdf Injection set point is the injection point the ECU sets after reading all the sensor information. Between 0 and 25 degrees. The actual is where the injection is being adjusted to by ECU via the timing solenoid from info received from number four injector and CPS. Also from 0 to 25 degrees. Both should be very close to each other.
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See Excel file in post #92 on page 5. Your injection point was low and fuel low with high modulation compared to my car. What it means in the physical world I do not know. The tools to check all the timing marks are about £150 off eBay.
Over here a new pump is £1300 and a refubed one about £700. I priced up all the chains, sprockets and tensioners at about £350 about a year or so ago, IIRC. No idea what it'd cost to ship them out there, if anyone dares risking shipping to Sri Lanka.
Over here a new pump is £1300 and a refubed one about £700. I priced up all the chains, sprockets and tensioners at about £350 about a year or so ago, IIRC. No idea what it'd cost to ship them out there, if anyone dares risking shipping to Sri Lanka.
