RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
It is sounding more like QS issue. More investigation needed as that’s not cheap fix. Should change filter when doing pump. would be nice if that was it
It is sounding more like QS issue. More investigation needed as that’s not cheap fix. Should change filter when doing pump. would be nice if that was it
Radar1946
Active Member
I fitted a new filter when I fitted the new fuel pump. No fault codes, No leaks, No air bubbles in fuel pipe. After the last repair it ran great for ten mile then would not accelerate.
Managed to get it home but now has gone back to not starting. I can't make out why it cured and then came back. The glow plugs are Bosch which I thought should be good ones.
Managed to get it home but now has gone back to not starting. I can't make out why it cured and then came back. The glow plugs are Bosch which I thought should be good ones.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Is it playing up only when hot, only when cold or all the time?
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Start again check it’s not blown the glow plug control same as last one and each glow is getting voltage, since it seemed to cure it last time. Plus the fuse under ecu. Check fuses are correct rating.
If you get it started check your modulation with your diagnostics (cold and warmed)
If you get it started check your modulation with your diagnostics (cold and warmed)
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
You can get kits to do a reseal for under £20 but anything more than that is a specialist rebuild as it has to set up.
Go back to the glow plug work you did last time and go from there. If you dive into resealing the pump and get it wrong you'll have two problems to deal with. Don't open another can before you collected the other worms. 
Have you had a look at the 4th injector to check the wire has indeed not been caught between the manifold and head?Would a bad or intermittent cps be a possible cause to your troubles...
Quantity servo wouldn't stop it starting, nor chain stretch unless it has jumped some teeth.
I agree with Mark, back to basics. Are all the glow-pluga working? Wires to stripped or touching? Especially #6 by the bulkhead.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Unlikely jumped tooth - he wouldn’t have drove it ten miles like that.
No4 would flag a code/mil lamp.
Cps is good shout wouldn’t show much signs but normally play up when warm at first
Since it’s a 2001 Could it be losing sync?
No4 would flag a code/mil lamp.
Cps is good shout wouldn’t show much signs but normally play up when warm at first
Since it’s a 2001 Could it be losing sync?
Radar1946
Active Member
Removed the manifold, checked all connectors and wires, gave them a good jiggle to get best contact. Then I checked each glow plug, all had 10 volts. Checked number 4 injector wire was ok.
Refitted manifold , turned the key and it started straight away, and revs ok. I have tried to start it ten times and each time it starts. I have left it for today and see what happens tomorrow.
It seems as though its electrical as that's all I messed with. The only thing now is I am a bit wary as to going out in it.
Refitted manifold , turned the key and it started straight away, and revs ok. I have tried to start it ten times and each time it starts. I have left it for today and see what happens tomorrow.
It seems as though its electrical as that's all I messed with. The only thing now is I am a bit wary as to going out in it.
10 volts at the plugs? They are normally rated to 11v and the relay makes them glow by blasting more volts at them. Check the resistance on each one. They should all be identical. It'll run with no manifold on incase you didn't know. Just don't have anything hanging about that may drop into the head.
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RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Definitely a Christine!
Intermittent fault. Nothing worse. Any faults stored that might give an indication of the problem area?
Crank position sensor getting hot then failing is possible. Brian says you can spray that plumbers freeze spray on it to pep it up if it does it but it does mean a test drive with a tow car handy!
Crank position sensor getting hot then failing is possible. Brian says you can spray that plumbers freeze spray on it to pep it up if it does it but it does mean a test drive with a tow car handy!
Gord Wedman
Well-Known Member
If it seems to be electrical I would carefully check all the associated wiring for poor connections or intermittent breaks. I once had an alternator that would not charge. Checked the wiring and when pulling on the field wire it came apart. The wire was actually broken inside the insulation. Discovered purely by accident
