I've sent you the link for the correct battery take it back and get them to swap it over !
As its not fit for Purpose
Excuse the pun :D
 
Last edited:
Yes yes, ha ha ha, I have the wrong battery, what an incredible imbecile I am. I'll be returning that one on Saturday.

With the old battery having been charged now and reading 12.3v, it still won't turn over suggesting the whole battery thing was a red herring from the start. Suggestions on where to look next would be most welcome!
 
speedyyellow said:
Yes yes, ha ha ha, I have the wrong battery, what an incredible imbecile I am. I'll be returning that one on Saturday.

With the old battery having been charged now and reading 12.3v, it still won't turn over suggesting the whole battery thing was a red herring from the start. Suggestions on where to look next would be most welcome!
Click to expand...

Think your battery is knackered. Get it shunt tested. That is the correct battery for a petrol. A bigger one won't hurt. Fit a 107 Amp one from a diesel all should be fine. And it'll fit as well. :):)
 
:jaw:
speedyyellow said:
Yes yes, ha ha ha, I have the wrong battery, what an incredible imbecile I am. I'll be returning that one on Saturday.

With the old battery having been charged now and reading 12.3v, it still won't turn over suggesting the whole battery thing was a red herring from the start. Suggestions on where to look next would be most welcome!
Click to expand...
When will you people learn just because your battery registers 12 v lights come on that use hardly anything as in power when you turn your starter motor it draws a lot of power (load )if your battery is weak it can not manage the sudden draw!!! Get it tested!! Its. Called a drop test load test shunt test all mean the same thing.
 
As I've said, the car is stuck at the station and I can't get to anywhere to exchange the incorrect battery or get mine tested until Saturday.


I'm just exploring my options in trying to get the bloody thing home at the moment. I hoped charging the battery would be enough to get it to fire up just once, but even with a freshly charged booster pack giving a helping hand it still won't turn the engine over.

It looks like I'm stuck paying car parking on it until the weekend then. :(
 
speedyyellow said:
As I've said, the car is stuck at the station and I can't get to anywhere to exchange the incorrect battery or get mine tested until Saturday.


I'm just exploring my options in trying to get the bloody thing home at the moment. I hoped charging the battery would be enough to get it to fire up just once, but even with a freshly charged booster pack giving a helping hand it still won't turn the engine over.

It looks like I'm stuck paying car parking on it until the weekend then. :(
Click to expand...

Think you had better get it home ASAP you may have other problems if that is the case. Starter maybe duff. It has been known for them to dive off a cliff.
 
12.3V is not enough. +1 on the battery knackered!

Take the new battery and a set of jump leads, leave existing (old) battery connected and hook up new one in parallel. Start the motor, disconnect new battery keeping motor running and head home... Simples! :)

Good luck.

P.S. I'd take a hammer and a long socket extension too. If it still doesn't start, try holding one end on the starter casing and tap the other (not belt it!) with hammer. If the solenoid has stuck, it 'might' free it... Has worked for me in the past.
 
Last edited:
Rob4x40 said:
12.3V is not enough. +1 on the battery knackered!

Take the new battery and a set of jump leads, leave existing (old) battery connected and hook up new one in parallel. Start the motor, disconnect new battery keeping motor running and head home... Simples! :)

Good luck.
Click to expand...
I'm thinking starter or Solinoid knackerd as already tried boost


But then again if boost not fully charged .....
 
Grit Valve said:
I'm thinking starter or Solinoid knackerd as already tried boost


But then again if boost not fully charged .....
Click to expand...

Agreed, but most booster packs have tiny 12Ah gel batteries and with only 12.3V on the main one he'll struggle to get 12.5V with a boost. Should be more like 12.8~13.2V if he's just charged it I'd say?
 
Rob4x40 said:
Agreed, but most booster packs have tiny 12Ah gel batteries and with only 12.3V on the main one he'll struggle to get 12.5V with a boost. Should be more like 12.8~13.2V if he's just charged it I'd say?
Click to expand...
Yep unless you pay top money most are knackerd due to sitting about waiting for action to Arrive
 
I charged the booster pack as well as the original battery. :) Anyway, I just tried the new battery with jump leads idea (genius btw!) and same result.

The rain has produced a large puddle under the car, and being dark I couldn't really see the starter motor from under the bonnet, so giving it a bash will have to wait.
 
Get that new battery ( correct ) battery
Chances it will be good if no turning over do you know how to jump a starter motor if so after trying normally with key if the starter don't jump its knackerd !

If its clicking you haven't lost sync
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

DollyBird
Engine disabled, keys not working, tried the guide “Re-synching the Range Rover P38 diesel engine with the Solved - BECM using a Nanocom” no luck
Replies
9
Views
987
DollyBird
DollyBird
F
Range rover nightmare.
2 3 4
Replies
70
Views
6K
f40cab
F
Notmyrealname88
08 Range Rover All exterior lights flickering randomly
Replies
10
Views
1K
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
L
Sport Range rover sport l320 2.7 whine/drone noise
2
Replies
28
Views
3K
loronge2023
L
V
Range a rover P38 Gearbox power solenoid fault
2 3
Replies
44
Views
4K
Datatek
Datatek