So the bolt head wasn't fully sheared so it still has a good connection
So I fitted the egr blanking kit and used self tapping screws to plug the vacume hoses

Where I put the plate:

I left the modulators plunged in and the brakes wernt working:

So I unplugged them and the brakes got better they still work fine but require more effort and further to push the pedal before they work.
Any one know what could be the problem?
 
Sounds like you might still have an air leak somewhere. I'm assuming the servo itself is intact, so it might be that the vacuum pipe is leaking where it goes into the servo - it's worth checking that the grommet is fully seated. In good condition they hold a vacuum for quite a while - several hours after the car has stopped you still get a whoosh of air into the servo if you pull the pipe off. When I did this I put some gasket sealant onto the self tapping screws I screwed into the ends that went on the EGR mechanism, which seems to have kept them airtight. I believe it's possible to buy a vacuum pipe which doesn't have the branches on for the EGR: ANR6916, but I haven't bothered.
 
:mad:
Brown said:
Sounds like you might still have an air leak somewhere. I'm assuming the servo itself is intact, so it might be that the vacuum pipe is leaking where it goes into the servo - it's worth checking that the grommet is fully seated. In good condition they hold a vacuum for quite a while - several hours after the car has stopped you still get a whoosh of air into the servo if you pull the pipe off. When I did this I put some gasket sealant onto the self tapping screws I screwed into the ends that went on the EGR mechanism, which seems to have kept them airtight. I believe it's possible to buy a vacuum pipe which doesn't have the branches on for the EGR: ANR6916, but I haven't bothered.
Click to expand...
Sorry for the late reply been away with work and thanks I'll have a look into it.
 
Im going to be giving dynachip a ring thinking of going for their stage one remap, don't really want to risk warping the manifold and having other troubles.
 
Had mine done, won't look back! Now looking for a larger intercooler. From the research I have done manifold warping will only occur if you floor it everywhere into high revs and stay there. If you drive normally with a bit of booting around youll be fine.

Also spoke to Alisport who do an uprated stud kit for £55 :eek: but they said that using them should slow the effect of warping as the manifold has more room to expand and contract especially if the webs are removed.

If you are really worried about it fit an EGT gauge, MadMan do an EGT mounting bracket which sits where you black off the EGR allowing you to install a probe without drilling and tapping the manifold. They also do a really nice EGT gauge however its a little pricey but does have more than one function.

Also speaking with Alisport and TD5Inside! They both seemed to agree if you stick with a standard tune with or without a big intercooler the engine will be as reliable as standard. Providing you dont drive it like a Japanese drift car! It's after fitting stage 1 tune & bigger intercooler and you want to go further is where the reliability issues will happen.

Also as far as I know standard TD5 boost pressure is around 14psi, you can increase it slightly ive upped mine to 17psi. 18psi generally being the limit before limp mode kicks in.

Please correct me if im wrong as well, this is all information I have gathered and pieced together myself after having the map done :p
 
Last edited:
Thanks very much, however I now have a big problem:
Going into McDonald's drive through I turned off as I couldn't hear the guy and it wouldn't restart,
No warning lights
All electrics work
Turn the key and the pump kicks in turn it the starter click and it does nothing else then if you turn it back you can't turn the key back the next click unless you take the key out.
Does anyone know what could be wrong as I don't want to have to cancel the booking?
Thanks
 
That's what it looks like it could be, the problem is I'm away at work so have none of my equiptment, but do have access to the farm workshop, I may call out the AA and see what they say as I'm working full out at the moment, and I really don't want to cancel my booking with dynachip on Tuesday.
 
Starters easy enough to change if it is that.

Hes a nice guy just dont leave him hanging, he may well be driving to your area just for you! More notice is better!
 
Starter solenoid gives problems on Td5, there's a cheap repair kit, google it.
Worst part is getting at the starter motor top nut to remove it, also possible issue with ignition switch?
 
bankz5152 said:
Starters easy enough to change if it is that.

Hes a nice guy just dont leave him hanging, he may well be driving to your area just for you! More notice is better!
Click to expand...

He's already got two bookings near me in the morning, I'll phone him tonight to let him know the problem.
 
bobupndown said:
Starter solenoid gives problems on Td5, there's a cheap repair kit, google it.
Worst part is getting at the starter motor top nut to remove it, also possible issue with ignition switch?
Click to expand...


I'll have a look, and I'm going to phone th AA this afternoon and see what they say, I like to do work on the landy myself, but I'm still working which means I wont have time.
 
The AA guy arrived, opened the bonnet and said to try start it, and nothing, he said try again and it started, wtf, he just wobled the spade connection on the starter motor. So he took it off and cleaned it and it now starts normaly. I'm so happy, just hope it doesn't happen again.
 
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