hi, can anyone tell me if I can remove/ fit abs shuttle valve on td5 110 defender without removing whole abs unit, and if the modification I have read about will get rid of the three amigos?

First things first, have you used a proper diagnostic (such as nanocom etc) unit to read the fault code as there are other causes apart from the shuttle valve.

I believe it should be possible to do the “option B” mod without full removal.
Try searching option b.

Have a read through this;

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...amigos-but-its-still-bad.166818/#post-1672034

thanks for reply. I did get the local 4x4 garage to check it out with their electric gizmo and they said I needed the whole abs unit. they reset the fault and the lights went out until winter came.they seem to come up when I go through puddles. it passed the mot after the lights were reset so it must be working.could do with one of those fault readers to reset again now the dry weather is here.

Working on the assumption that they have identified the fault correctly, which is not an unreasonable assumption to make... They will have said that because technically that is the correct option to repair as the actual fault is a couple of electrical connections between the shuttle valve and the ABS pump however the ‘option B’ ‘repair’ bypasses the connections that cause the problem and therefore if done properly (i.e. not with scotch block type connections but with either soldered or crimped connections) then it is a more permanent repair than replacing the whole ABS unit as those connections may well corrode again in the future (although likely years away).

looks like option b then. I've seen a complete repair kit for this on ebay for 80 pounds ish- looks like proper plugs etc- anyone tried one of these?.
still not sure if it can be done with whole unit in place- looks rather awkward- any definitive answers on this one?

Resurrecting an old thread rather than starting a new one. I've just had the TC & ABS light fault appear on my 2002 Defender Td5. Took it to my local LR specialist and they confirmed it's the shuttle valve fault. On their advice we've disconnected the wiring to the ABS pump so I'm currently running without ABS or TC. OK, but not ideal.

Reading around the issue it seems like a replacement ABS shuttle switch and a spot of wire soldering (Option B) should see a fix, but I note that most of the threads that discuss this are a few years old now.

So, a couple of questions:
1. Is there a better approach around these day?
2. Is part number SWO500030 ABS Modulator Shuttle Valve Switch Kit the correct one to use for a Defender or is that only for Disco 2?
3. Is it worth trying just replacing the switch before doing the wiring mod or am I better off doing it anyway?

Cheers and TIA