dinisrosa

Member
Hello everyone

In order to trying to keep the thread short and the most accurate as possible, I'll invest in a longer and detailed discription. Sorry in advance if it gets to long :)

Following the short story I shared with you on the Introductions section (which I invite you to see), here's my problem:


Getting my car's rebuild almost finished - a 1999 D90 td5 10p EU2, original with no performance mods - after more than 2 years without running the engine, finally I took it out of the shop and went for a test drive (God, I was missing it so much!)

To know:

- This car got tottaly striped down. Only the engine, boxes (reconditioned) and fuel tank (and respective fuel pipes) remained in the chassis as they were in perfect working condition;

- Every air hoses, coolant hoses and all filters of all kind are brand new and correct/tightly fitted;

- EGR was blanked (Allisport kit), following the books - manifold and pipe to the valve were blanked and electric switch to the vacuum control valve was disconected;

So, after running the engine (which took a lot of time to turn on - empty filters, empty fuel tank and pipes..), everything looked to work properly. Actually, better than ever in many years as it took also new both genuine engine mounts, and it's time sounds beautifuly on the ears, despite it's 380.000km! I never had a problem with this engine (or it is fully compatible with my driving way or i'm just lucky).


Took it to the outside (inside an industrial park) and drove it for several laps around it.
This car doesn't smoke, but some got out in the beginning, which I consider to be normal, as it stayed sleeping for more than 2 years. Mainly black, but also a bit of white smoke too, which it's NOT normal on my car - maybe engine cleaning up some dirt left by the EGR valve or maybe some consequence of being layed on it's side for a while (see my Introduction)?

Anyway, after 10 min it got clean, with almost no smoke at all coming out when pushing hard.
Despite this, it runned beautifuly. Beautiful and healthy sound, healthy response on the foot and very tight overall, no playing and no rattles of any type. Just like a new car, as it got everything new on it (bushes, bearings, cv joins, swivel pins, retuned diffs, sealings etc etc).

Sudently, when I was turning around, after some 15 min, Ive heard what I can describe as a subtle 1 second electrical squeezing kind of noise (maybe mixed with some air?.. I'm not sure) and I imediately felt the engine lost its power. I can´t say where that sound came from, though..

Turned off and on the engine several times and it runs and sounds normally, but there's just no air pressure and so no turbo, so it doesn't go further than around 50km/h. No lights, no misfiring, no smoke, nothing not normal at my eyes and ears. It seems to be in safe mode, I believe.

After studying some possible causes for this, yes, my turbo wastegate was stucked.Worked on it (it moves freely now) and took the actuator to a turbo specialist, just to check. It's in good working order. Reassembled it and no changes. Still no air pressure. Didn't check the turbo itself, as there were no playing that I've noticed during the rebuild. And I believe I'd have more obvious symptoms, if it was the cause.

I cleaned the MAP and MAF sensors, tried for seeing changes with their switches connected and not connected. Still the same.

Then I realised the pipe that goes from the vacuum valve to the air filter was forgoten disconected. But of course it didn't changed the situation after refiting. I wasn't expecting any change from here anyway..

Read somewhere other possibility, a burned fuel pump relay under the seat (which could explain that sound I've heard) once, apparently, the engine can run in that condition, but limited to a certain fuel pressure. The relay looked in good condition but I swaped it anyway. No changes and the pump behaves as it should, turning off after a few seconds on position II, and it has a healthy sound. Checked the other relay, under the dash, and all fuses.


My car is in a paintshop but I rebuilt it all alone. I like it that way. The shop do some simple mechanical tasks, yes, but they are mainly a pannel beating and paint shop. They do have a computer which was connected to the car. It's not fully compatible with it (can´t delete errors and so) but we had a readind (pic attached) that I hope, with your help, it can lead to the problem. It's in portuguese but I'll try to translate the best as I can as it may have more technical terms (I'll translate only the highlighted codes, as the others are related to other old problems (ABS) that I'll take care next to solving this one).

Here's the errors:

1. 0306 - Air circuit low diagnosis

3. 1202 - Open charge tacodynamo fail registered

6. 1205 - Open charge of verification engine light (MIL) registered

7. 1206 - Open charge of the glow plug light registered

9. 1602 - Open charge tacodynamo fail active

12. 2201 - Turbo discharge fail registered

14. 2607 - 160, CAN error fail active

15. 2803 - Engine speed out of it's limits to auto pilot (when applicable) active

16. 2805 - Engine speed out of it's limits to auto pilot (when applicable) active

(There's also a nº13 code refering to a stuck EGR fail, which I assume to be normal, as I removed it with the Allisport kit)


I only work on the car on fridays, all day, and saturdays in the morning, so maybe you could help me in what to check and try this weekend. I just don't want to start swaping everything like crazy, spending lots of money to solve a possibly simple thing, which I believe it's the case.

The answer is certainly on the origin of that sound I can't identify. A gone sensor would make a sound like that?.. hard to believe to me.

Anyway, many many thanks in advance, guys, and, again, my appologies for the long post!

Dinis

22.jpg
 
The first thing I would check are the air hoses to the turbo and to and from the intercooler and the intercooler itself for leaks.
 
Is the turbo actually spinning?
It was spinning by hand, with no play, some days ago, before running the engine for the first time after the rebuild. I didn't check it yet after this, but it's on the list for friday. But I confess I don't think it's that.. I believe it would manifest other symptoms.. But its true that's a turbo trouble code showing up in the diagonosis reading.
 
I am thinking that the sound you heard was that of the turbo bearings seizing and now not spinning. So no turbo pressure.
 
Another thought remove serpentine belt and try it without any ancillary equipment running only for a very short time.
 
Another thought remove serpentine belt and try it without any ancillary equipment running only for a very short time.
Hello Tim

Your suspicion about the turbo bearings now makes sense to me, as being the engine completely inactive for more than 2 years, the bearings seizing can be explained after being pushed in such context, even without any previous symptoms, like the absense of play or any noise coming from there. So this will be my first bet, tomorrow.

About you suggestion of removing the belt, what would be the point? What's your suspicion?

Thank you for your help!
 
Hello Tim

Your suspicion about the turbo bearings now makes sense to me, as being the engine completely inactive for more than 2 years, the bearings seizing can be explained after being pushed in such context, even without any previous symptoms, like the absense of play or any noise coming from there. So this will be my first bet, tomorrow.

About you suggestion of removing the belt, what would be the point? What's your suspicion?

Thank you for your help!
Hi,
Just a thought that if anything that is driven by the belt is sapping power. For example dry bearings in the water pump are tightening up making it hard work to turn this sapping power. A number of things are driven by the belt, water pump, alternator, power steering pump, vacume pump, belt tensioner and an intermediate guide. So plenty oppertunity to give an issue from standing.
 
Hi,
Just a thought that if anything that is driven by the belt is sapping power. For example dry bearings in the water pump are tightening up making it hard work to turn this sapping power. A number of things are driven by the belt, water pump, alternator, power steering pump, vacume pump, belt tensioner and an intermediate guide. So plenty oppertunity to give an issue from standing.
Yes, it’s true, and I’d kind of prefer it would be something from there, but, even though, I believe I’d get some moving from the turbo actuator at high revs or feeling some inconsistency when driving. The engine remains behaving the same way with no variations, just in a flat line.

Despite the turbo passed my inspection, some time ago, I’m pretty convinced (unfortunately..) that I’ll see it stucked tomorrow morning, as your first verdict.. :(
 
I feel the ancillary items on the drive belt is an outside chance compared to the turbo but worth a look if turbo is OK.
 
Is there any way you could access a TD5 compatible fault code reader? The thing to do is to clear the faults and then see which ones come back next time you start the engine.

Nos 3, 6, 7 and 9 look a bit like what happens on my TD5 Defender if I turn the ignition on with the instrument console disconnected - it can't find its warning lights or instruments. So they might merely have happened as part of the rebuild.

I've had something very similar to 15 and 16 when my crank position sensor is on the way out. I get a 'high speed crank error' (as it's reported on the Nanocom) and weirdly high cylinder balance values

No 1 sounds like it might be a MAF fault.

The others look like a turbo fault and an ECU fault, though the latter may go away if the other faults are addressed and cleared. I had a MAF fail on me about a year ago while driving at about 70 mph. The engine hesitated for a moment and put its little yellow dashboard light on but the car kept going. On getting home I discovered that the MAF data while running had all gone to zero, but what was interesting is that it had thrown up a load of other errors, canbus and aircon among them. I fitted a new MAF and cleared the errors and they've not come back.
 
Is there any way you could access a TD5 compatible fault code reader? The thing to do is to clear the faults and then see which ones come back next time you start the engine.
No, not for now. If needed, I’ll must take the car to a Land Rover shop. But firstly I’ll try to solve this with the tools/ means I have.
Nos 3, 6, 7 and 9 look a bit like what happens on my TD5 Defender if I turn the ignition on with the instrument console disconnected - it can't find its warning lights or instruments. So they might merely have happened as part of the rebuild.
This makes sense. I did turn the ignition with the instruments out.
No 1 sounds like it might be a MAF fault.
Yes, but that reading may not be necessarily a MAF sensor problem, I would say. Maybe a consequence of a low air flow caused by a gone turbo?..

The air conditioning I just installed it on this rebuild (kit from Coolair Loogan), so not original. But it seems to be working fine. I’ve read somewhere Defenders with no factory fitted air cons normally present A/C errors. I’m not sure if the ECU reads this one correctly.

ABS errors are an old problem too. I’ll take care of them when I solve the air pressure subject!

Thank you, Brown, for your contribution!
 
I've had something very similar to 15 and 16 when my crank position sensor is on the way out. I get a 'high speed crank error' (as it's reported on the Nanocom) and weirdly high cylinder balance values
Hmmm.. recorded this one. Must investigate this too.
This sensor is not expensive anyway, so it wouldn’t be a big loss to fit a new one.
 
Yes, I'm not saying my faults are identical to yours, just what some of the codes might mean, given what has happened to mine.
 

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