Kevlandau

Kevlandau

Member
Hi, need your help with my Defender 90 because I've tried everything to stop my drivers door from opening to the anti burst position.
The door is in excellent condition and does not move on its hinges.
What I've noticed is that the TD5 door trim pushes against the seat base side, but surely that should not be able to open the door when I'm driving, so can you buy faulty locks, or adjust them in any way?
I've repositioned the lock catch and purchased the best type as a replacement, but with no luck.
If you let the door shut with light pressure it shuts beautifully, but a mile down the road, or if it's windy, it opens to burst position.
Can you assemble the link rods incorrectly, or have I just bought a bad lock...
Thanks
 
Can be a pain getting door latches working correctly. But as it does shut fine and if you can not get it to open by pulling on the handle it may well be faulty.
I know it is trouble getting the card off but remove and run without for a bit.
There has to be some slack to the inside release and the rod to the lock button.
You could disconnect both and see what the latch then does.
 
Thanks Tottot, I wasn't sure about the link rods and I may have made things worse because when I rebuilt the Defender I could only obtain door windows for the passenger door and the plastic connection blocks at the bottom of the window winder mechanism are on the wrong side. I think the 10mm difference could have put a strain on things, and I'm not sure if you can get these things off and turn them around. I know you can buy these blocks, so guess they are glued on.
I'll get the door card off and try as you mentioned.
Cheers!
 
When I renewed my driver door glass is came without the rail/guide. Took a while to figure out which way it went.
 
Not sure what you mean "plastic blocks" mines window glass sat in a metal rail which engaged with the regulator. [ may have changed with later models ] had to recover original from broken glass and stick to new window.
 
tottot said:
Not sure what you mean "plastic blocks" mines window glass sat in a metal rail which engaged with the regulator. [ may have changed with later models ] had to recover original from broken glass and stick to new window.
Click to expand...
1711188074565.png
It's these from a 94 Defender. Guess they're glued in. Well, hope they're glued in! Ha ha.
 
I've check a few descriptions on fleabay and they state glue, so I have a chance unless I break the glass.
Thanks for advice.
 
There are products that dissolve most glues, but the may ruin the plastic. A sharp blade may be enough to loosen them. Good luck.
 
As well as the door latch mechanism itself, don't forget all the bits of plastic and bent wire and suchlike that go to make up the handles, lock button and so on. I had a similar situation some years ago in that I'd be driving along and suddenly notice that the driver's door was being held only on the outermost part of the catch. I even bought a new lock mechanism to fit, assuming there was something wrong with the old one. In the event, the problem turned out to be the lock button mechanism, where a bit of plastic had broken. So my new lock mechanism wasn't needed after all, and it still languishing in a cupboard somewhere.
 
Kevlandau said:
Hi, need your help with my Defender 90 because I've tried everything to stop my drivers door from opening to the anti burst position.
The door is in excellent condition and does not move on its hinges.
What I've noticed is that the TD5 door trim pushes against the seat base side, but surely that should not be able to open the door when I'm driving, so can you buy faulty locks, or adjust them in any way?
<snip>
Click to expand...

I had just done a door with exactly the same problem.
The issue is that the door lock striker (MUC8526) need moving further (outwards) towards the door.

Remove the striker and the plastic spacer and shims.
Take care not to drop the rear plate as it's a bitch to dig out from behind the seatbelt reel.
Use a round file to elongate the holes in the B pillar (that the door striker bolts into) by around 10mm.
Reinstall the striker and tighten the bolts whilst trying to pull it outwards.
Check it goes in the middle of the door lock opening and install the shims so that it doesn't hit the inside of the lock cut-out or the lock itself.
 
Last edited:
Brown said:
As well as the door latch mechanism itself, don't forget all the bits of plastic and bent wire and suchlike that go to make up the handles, lock button and so on. I had a similar situation some years ago in that I'd be driving along and suddenly notice that the driver's door was being held only on the outermost part of the catch. I even bought a new lock mechanism to fit, assuming there was something wrong with the old one. In the event, the problem turned out to be the lock button mechanism, where a bit of plastic had broken. So my new lock mechanism wasn't needed after all, and it still languishing in a cupboard somewhere.
Click to expand...
Hi there, that sounds just like my problem. I've just taken off the door trim and taken a good look, but don't think my window glass conversion is at fault. Even so, I noted three things.
1. The latch that you push down to lock the door internally was not clipped in correctly, so it was protruding about 8mm towards the door trim and so the door trim was sticking out from the door at the top.
2. The bolts that hold the glass mechanism to the inner cover stick out towards the door trim by about 10mm.
3. One of the short link rods is not tight, but snug when the lock is closed,

I'll pop outside and take some photo's now, you may be able to spot something I've missed.

Cheers
 
Kevlandau said:
Hi there, that sounds just like my problem. I've just taken off the door trim and taken a good look, but don't think my window glass conversion is at fault. Even so, I noted three things.
1. The latch that you push down to lock the door internally was not clipped in correctly, so it was protruding about 8mm towards the door trim and so the door trim was sticking out from the door at the top.
2. The bolts that hold the glass mechanism to the inner cover stick out towards the door trim by about 10mm.
3. One of the short link rods is not tight, but snug when the lock is closed,

I'll pop outside and take some photo's now, you may be able to spot something I've missed.

Cheers
Click to expand...
 

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Images aren't great, but I do not believe anything I've mentioned is causing it.
I got a steel rod and pushed the lock inward until it reached full lock click, then I measured from the rod to the outside of the door, then checked the latch position to the body and honestly do not believe the door lock is fully latching because the latch is too far in, and it is at its minimum dimension to the outside of the body. I've tried tapping the body seal edge, but nothing.
When I use the steel rod the lock has too loud clicks, but I can only hear one click when I push the door shut.
Conclusion is that unless you can adjust the lock position, the only option will be to extend the holes that the latch bolts to and bring it closer to the lock.
 
Well, just to thank all who replied, as enlarging the door pillar slots to allow the latch / slam plate to be closer to the door worked. I gradually ground the slots using edge grinding drills until the second click of the lock could be heard and the door still shut to its normal position. I don't like doing such things, but as people say "it's a Land Rover what do you expect", but after checking the lock position on the door, I noted the difference in my two locks with the drivers side lock being about 3mm different to the passenger lock. It was not the door or the latch position that was causing the problem, it was the lock itself, and I purchased them from a good shop that has been supplying me for over 35 years. Never mind, I could be bored with a Toyota...
 
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