jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
fit the earlier hand brake to the t/box requires 2 x 8mm holes drilling and tapping in speedo housing
So what did I do today? Fitted engine and boxes in one go.
https://flic.kr/p/BJmkgo
Thanks to tacr2man for the advice on the crossmember.
https://flic.kr/p/BJmkgo
Thanks to tacr2man for the advice on the crossmember.
Further to this post, I have the standard auto oil cooler and want to plum it in using flexible hoses.
Where can I get the M16 fittings to attach to the box and cooler? And then piping to suit?
Moving on at a pace. Went to paintshop today and I have to say it is looking good, real good.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/130401096@N08/shares/8Q320J
https://www.flickr.com/photos/130401096@N08/shares/8Q320J
Decided not to use pop rivets to put rear windows in. Used M4 flanged head bolts and the filler still fitted fine.
https://flic.kr/p/DF33nN
https://flic.kr/p/DF33nN
flat
Well-Known Member
Looks a lot neater than pop rivets IMO aswell
You need a place which makes hydraulic hoses.... round here we have this lot - decent helpful mob
www.hgvdirect.co.uk
they have a few branches now in the north west.... try searching for someone similar, if these guys are outside your area..
there are also mobile folk - main in a van will come to you and make what you want - know a firm in Sheffield who are a very good - also know of a few others who can be pricey. ( PM me for any help if you want )
Only my opinion, but don't bother with the the standard cooler. Having spoken to ZF technical, they said that you won't overcool the box, so I fitted a much larger cooler to my 4HP22, from these guys:-
http://www.alutec.co.uk/?page=main
very good in my experience of them ( and you can have more or less any shape, and get it the right way up etc. )
( usual disclaimer - no affiliation - just a satisfied customer of both the above )
Next on my jobs is wiring, I need some help identifying the connections on my new 300Tdi ignition switch.
My current switch has big terminals because the glow plug wiring goes through the switch but I am putting the D1 glow plug timer on to reduce the wiring to the newer standard.
A photo would probably be good enough.
My current switch has big terminals because the glow plug wiring goes through the switch but I am putting the D1 glow plug timer on to reduce the wiring to the newer standard.
A photo would probably be good enough.
FlyingPete
Well-Known Member
IIRC, the later switch has four positions-
0: everything off
1: accessory position- radio etc will work
2: ignition- power to the fuel pump solenoid, glow plugs activate on the timer
3: start. fuel pump still powered, radio etc switch off
And you're converting from the older type with the separate glow-plug position, which works like this-
0: everything off
1: run- fuel pump etc powered, radio etc also powered
2: glow plugs- fuel pump powered, glow plugs powered, everything else off.
3: start- fuel pump, glow plugs, starter motor powered, everything else off.
So the new switch will have one input terminal- thick brown wire from the battery.
One terminal will be active in positions 1 and 2, but not 3. This is your accessory connection- white wires.
One terminal will be active in positions 2 and 3, but not 1. This is your 'ignition' circuit- white/black wire to stop solenoid and glow plug timer.
The other terminal will be active in position 3 only. This is the starter motor connection.
The best way would be to test the switch with a multimeter to identify which terminal is which.
I found a pinout diagram for the timer relay here:
Looks like you need a connection to the 'start' terminal on the switch too.
One exception I would make to the diagram is that, since you're converting from a wiring system with no 'accessory' position on the switch, pin 4 should go to the white/black wire connected to the stop solenoid, not one of the white wires. This means the glow plugs won't activate if you're just parked listening to the radio.
I'd install the relay behind the instrument panel, as then you can use the existing glow plug wiring that formerly went to the key switch.
0: everything off
1: accessory position- radio etc will work
2: ignition- power to the fuel pump solenoid, glow plugs activate on the timer
3: start. fuel pump still powered, radio etc switch off
And you're converting from the older type with the separate glow-plug position, which works like this-
0: everything off
1: run- fuel pump etc powered, radio etc also powered
2: glow plugs- fuel pump powered, glow plugs powered, everything else off.
3: start- fuel pump, glow plugs, starter motor powered, everything else off.
So the new switch will have one input terminal- thick brown wire from the battery.
One terminal will be active in positions 1 and 2, but not 3. This is your accessory connection- white wires.
One terminal will be active in positions 2 and 3, but not 1. This is your 'ignition' circuit- white/black wire to stop solenoid and glow plug timer.
The other terminal will be active in position 3 only. This is the starter motor connection.
The best way would be to test the switch with a multimeter to identify which terminal is which.
I found a pinout diagram for the timer relay here:
Looks like you need a connection to the 'start' terminal on the switch too.
One exception I would make to the diagram is that, since you're converting from a wiring system with no 'accessory' position on the switch, pin 4 should go to the white/black wire connected to the stop solenoid, not one of the white wires. This means the glow plugs won't activate if you're just parked listening to the radio.
I'd install the relay behind the instrument panel, as then you can use the existing glow plug wiring that formerly went to the key switch.
Just popping in to take a look at this thread.
Ordered the full Ashcroft auto kit for my 300TDi 90 yesterday, they said it should be ready to ship in 3-4 weeks time (auto-box, shifter, ancillaries, console etc etc) so roll on Easter!
I spoke to David Ashcroft as I was a little unsure about which transfer-box to use (I have run a Disco T-box & 265/75x16's since new) and he said that if I don't do a lot of heavy towing (I don't) then my existing set-up should work just fine. I will run it around the rest of this year and see but I am taking it all apart for a galv chassis refurb next year so if I find that the gearing is too high I will swop to a standard T-box then.
Ordered the full Ashcroft auto kit for my 300TDi 90 yesterday, they said it should be ready to ship in 3-4 weeks time (auto-box, shifter, ancillaries, console etc etc) so roll on Easter!
I spoke to David Ashcroft as I was a little unsure about which transfer-box to use (I have run a Disco T-box & 265/75x16's since new) and he said that if I don't do a lot of heavy towing (I don't) then my existing set-up should work just fine. I will run it around the rest of this year and see but I am taking it all apart for a galv chassis refurb next year so if I find that the gearing is too high I will swop to a standard T-box then.
Like I said, I will see how it works for my type of driving. Have no issues about swopping the Disco T-box at a later date but may as well see how it performs on the existing gearing (which is how it has been since new). Could well be that it doesn't work but as it is all coming apart again in a little over 12-months it is no problem.
If I decide to swop next year I will just be buying a recon T-box outright as that way I still have my R380 / Disco T-box set-up sitting in the garage. The engine / drivetrain has still covered under 40K miles from new so I would rather keep them ready for any future project. I have never liked the R380 (the worse LR gearbox I have ever owned) but I have it so will store it away.
If I decide to swop next year I will just be buying a recon T-box outright as that way I still have my R380 / Disco T-box set-up sitting in the garage. The engine / drivetrain has still covered under 40K miles from new so I would rather keep them ready for any future project. I have never liked the R380 (the worse LR gearbox I have ever owned) but I have it so will store it away.
So pleased with today's work, after bleeding the diesel through my project fired up quite easily. The engine hasn't been started since September and has had all the EDC gubbins chopped away and a mech pump fitted.
https://flic.kr/p/FW3SSN
https://flic.kr/p/FW3SSN
