nesponge
Active Member
Good grief lighten up man...
The simple answer is no... it is not a practical idea even at 5"5
My sister is 5"1 and has given up on the idea herself, opting for a roof tent instead.
Good grief lighten up man...
The simple answer is no... it is not a practical idea even at 5"5
My sister is 5"1 and has given up on the idea herself, opting for a roof tent instead.
rappy1
Active Member
Nice to see a topic out of the ordinary in the defender section.
Will be following this thread with interest. Even with it being a 90 it's got to be more comfortable sleeping in the back than in the drivers seat like we use to do when we were young.
Is that sound deadened that you have applied to the side of the landy? Keep up the good work and the photos!!
Will be following this thread with interest. Even with it being a 90 it's got to be more comfortable sleeping in the back than in the drivers seat like we use to do when we were young.
Is that sound deadened that you have applied to the side of the landy? Keep up the good work and the photos!!
DEFENDER90-DAZ
New Member
Did notice in 1 of the landy comics of someone using a hammock with the front seats folded forwards, looks like a good idea 
:rolly:
Not much more progress as water ingress (see other entry - Defender Wet Wet Wet) has slowed things down a bit but the insulation continues and another three cheesy camping mats arrived from Cheddar today. I now have enough to fully insulate all wall floor and ceiling.
A tip; in cold weather I have found it easy to work outside in Landy if you have a blanket on the floor topped with any plastic material you can turn around and about on - otherwise the bare metal floor of the landy is bloody cold.
I also found a couple of planks, in the loft which will span the rear area (as bed supports) and have cut them down to size and sanded all corners to make sure no splinters. The wood I found was a bit naff so I bought a sander in Lidl for £12, working on the basis it probably would have cost me that much to buy wood cut to size, whereas now I will have a sander at end of it. The sander I bought is a Parkland ??, its German, comes with a 3 year guarantee and as with many (not all) electrical things from Lidl it is bloody good.
:5bcheers2:
Not much more progress as water ingress (see other entry - Defender Wet Wet Wet) has slowed things down a bit but the insulation continues and another three cheesy camping mats arrived from Cheddar today. I now have enough to fully insulate all wall floor and ceiling.
A tip; in cold weather I have found it easy to work outside in Landy if you have a blanket on the floor topped with any plastic material you can turn around and about on - otherwise the bare metal floor of the landy is bloody cold.
I also found a couple of planks, in the loft which will span the rear area (as bed supports) and have cut them down to size and sanded all corners to make sure no splinters. The wood I found was a bit naff so I bought a sander in Lidl for £12, working on the basis it probably would have cost me that much to buy wood cut to size, whereas now I will have a sander at end of it. The sander I bought is a Parkland ??, its German, comes with a 3 year guarantee and as with many (not all) electrical things from Lidl it is bloody good.
:5bcheers2:
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landroverjack
New Member
What are you going to cover the silver insulation with? are you just giving it 1 layer? Might be a lot more effective with 2 or 3
Re: Defender 90 as Campervan
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landroverjack
What are you going to cover the silver insulation with? are you just giving it 1 layer? Might be a lot more effective with 2 or 3
__________________
I have planned and costed every aspect of this DIY conversion and if you are really interested I can send you the file as a 'pps'
The walls are going to be covered with the correct car upholstery material as used in coaches etc - see below.
I studied La Salle's options and the write up in the landrover magazine - it is a mute point whether one goes for open cell polyurethene or closed cell. It effects your choice of adhesives and La Salle will argue that you need to leave air space for natural condensation that will appear regardless - they use 12mm open cell material. Personally I think that 6mm closed cell EVA will provide less of an air pocket if properly fixed and therefore any condensation should not appear. Without doubt if you are not short of pennies the La Salle headliner and wall liners are the bees knees but I am trying to do the same thing on a budget and by not going down the La Salle route I am saving literally hundreds of pounds. I am also creating something that we can use on the odd sunny day, I don't plan to take POPPY off road on an expedition to Norway so at end of day its horses for courses lol.
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landroverjack
What are you going to cover the silver insulation with? are you just giving it 1 layer? Might be a lot more effective with 2 or 3
__________________
I have planned and costed every aspect of this DIY conversion and if you are really interested I can send you the file as a 'pps'
The walls are going to be covered with the correct car upholstery material as used in coaches etc - see below.
I studied La Salle's options and the write up in the landrover magazine - it is a mute point whether one goes for open cell polyurethene or closed cell. It effects your choice of adhesives and La Salle will argue that you need to leave air space for natural condensation that will appear regardless - they use 12mm open cell material. Personally I think that 6mm closed cell EVA will provide less of an air pocket if properly fixed and therefore any condensation should not appear. Without doubt if you are not short of pennies the La Salle headliner and wall liners are the bees knees but I am trying to do the same thing on a budget and by not going down the La Salle route I am saving literally hundreds of pounds. I am also creating something that we can use on the odd sunny day, I don't plan to take POPPY off road on an expedition to Norway so at end of day its horses for courses lol.
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ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
sleeping curled up is fine but I think you may be forgeting the fact that you'll still need to stretch out every now and again. Have you thought about giving it a trial night on some boards bridging the gap between the wheel boxes and with a duvet or similar on them for padding? It seems to me that you are carrying out a lot of work on something that may not work in practice.
Thanks RATTY but but but, my main objective is to make POPPY as comfortable as possible. She is a 2001 TD5 and is not very noisy - the stereo sounds fine inside but the rear area is van like and was totally bare, she was probably used as a van by at least one previous owner. We want to use her for purely on-road recreation - we just both love landrovers. Insulating the back is a doddle and cost very little but I expect it to further cut down road noise and make the vehicle somewhat warmer. The campervan aspect is merely a bonus as if we go off seriously with the intention of camping we will take the Aztec Haven tent which we have recently purchased. We did spend over an hour at the start of this 'relaxing' in the back with temporary supports (much to the amusement of neighbours). The upshot is that if we were travelling and had found a good pub but no hotel we might just crash out for night in back of POPPY. Possibly my saying this is a 'campervan conversion' is misleading, what it will be hopefully is a much more comfortable rear area in which we can relax, have a cup of tea and if too far from anywhere - we can crash out in it.
This is out second landy, we previously had a series 3 which was much more spartan and though we loved POPPY1 we have moved on (and we are getting older).
This is out second landy, we previously had a series 3 which was much more spartan and though we loved POPPY1 we have moved on (and we are getting older).
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ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
-Defender110-
Well-Known Member
Landyjd
Active Member
on the subject of bunkbeds, this worked well for me in my old 110, thought it might be of use
I have to say that is quite a cool set up. The top bunk looks fine unless you suffer from claustrophobia, though perhaps a little close to the roof if you sit up suddenly in the night. Did you have it set up so that the bunks were easily removable or were they fairly permanent?
Frankly having a 90 as a camper is silly. 110 is OK but not sticking to 'bed' area 12" below the roof.
Heres one I made earlier.....
The old fridge has gone and in its place a smaller (and vastly better) compressor version
All fully insulated with three layers of thermal foil.
Heres one I made earlier.....
The old fridge has gone and in its place a smaller (and vastly better) compressor version
All fully insulated with three layers of thermal foil.
bluehaze
Well-Known Member
Why not make a shelf the same height as the rear bulkhead and then have a piece of wood that stretches over the seat (when folded) and sits on the dash. All your kit could live under the shelf. Although it would take some time to set up before snuggling down with your cocoa.
big ad
Active Member
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_n84RgjcDhrs/SgAr-zY04cI/AAAAAAAAAK0/FSl_8Yi4s8s/s1600/5_small.jpg
thats the back of our 110 .
thats the back of our 110 .
-Defender110-
Well-Known Member
landyjd: the bottom bunk was thin wooden lats that i mad up from whatever was around the shed, could easily be slotted out of their slots and stacked on the floor. top bunk was pilfered from a hardwood bedframe, a lot wider lats and much more secure for a top bunk and again, could be taken out very fast from their slots. see this picture
and again, could be taken out very fast from their slots. see this picture 
