I've read this thread on the aux belt and before I commit to taking it to the garage I thought I'd give it one last whirl

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-aux-belt-change-49002-2.html


It's shredded the large serpentine belt. I've read and searched on here that you need a 24mm spanner (which I haven't got) to even attempt to swap it, I removed the side panel and that tensioner is well hidden. Even if I had a belt and a 24mm spanner I don't feel I know enough on how to do it to go purchase the bits.

I've seen a picture of how it goes round the wheels and pulleys but it's like working blind.

If you did it the how did you feed the new one in?

Which direction did you pull the tensioner clockwise or anti clockwise?

Worst case its the garage

The battery is either duff or flattened becasue after 10 mins of charging from the other car it ran but wouldn't re-start on its own. This makes me think it will die whilst limping despite it being diesel

What's the sort of cost DIY or Indy to fix this any other advice?


Thanks......Mike

where do you live?

fanatic said:

where do you live?

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5 miles east of Manchester....why you driving over to fix it for free

Storminmike said:

5 miles east of Manchester....why you driving over to fix it for free

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No as Somerset is a bit of a trip, but you may persuade someone close to you to help for beer tokens.

Failing that if you have breakdown cover without homestart- check how far from home and call them out.

fanatic said:

No as Somerset is a bit of a trip, but you may persuade someone close to you to help for beer tokens.

Failing that if you have breakdown cover without homestart- check how far from home and call them out.

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I have breakdown cover with home start....that's the rub

It failed on Thursday about an hour after my garage closed for the weekend. The AA recovered it but said it's garage or home....1 tow only....no extras. Sadly it's in the Terms and Conditions

remove and chock up front rh wheel ,remove plastic cowel , locate tension nut using a long reach spanner ,pull down on tensioner clockwise ,then lock spanner by using large mole grips on sub frame to lock spanner hence leaving hands free to fit the belt in correct position when happy release tension . . . . . .simples

ming said:

remove and chock up front rh wheel ,remove plastic cowel , locate tension nut using a long reach spanner ,pull down on tensioner clockwise ,then lock spanner by using large mole grips on sub frame to lock spanner hence leaving hands free to fit the belt in correct position when happy release tension . . . . . .simples

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Thanks for confirming the method and direction....much appreciated

Mike

hi you do not have to lock it down if you do not want to I had to make a spanner to fit it is very very troublesome doing this one the best way I have found it to drop the engin on the offside undo the bottom stabelising mount undernieth there are five studs in this three that go into the engin and 2 that go into just above the drive shaft then put a jack under the engin to keep it up and when you have taken the 4 long bolts out of the top engin mount then lower the engin take the plastic side cover off you can then get at it easy with a 24 mm ring spanner do not use a open spanner it will silp of either causing damager to your self or the nut do a drawing of the way the belt goes to me it goes like a letter 8 but without the middle meeting left goes on the top free pully and right goes on the bottom free pully the spanner can be held down with one hand while you put the belt onto the last pulley when putting the engin back onto its mounts jack it up and the bottom stableising mount where the 2 hole are for the studs that go in above the drive shaft put a bolt into the futherest back one then you can push the mount upwards so you can line up then put a bolt into the engin and then put the rest in the keeping the jack under rasie the engin a bit more and put the 4 bolts into the top engin mounting do not for get you plastic side 3 10mm bolts hope this helps