jaysjetski said:

Ok so I think I'm the first to buy the kit and fit it so here goes.

It arrived in a few days this is what I got


So I read the instructions and all seem clear so I set to it whist at work.
Firstly remove the passenger side trims in the footwell.


With those out of the way you can get to the slabs ecu.its the one on the left with e blue and green plugs(5 plugs on it in total)


Now to start wiring it in, on the grey connector near the back I located the black earth and light green positive.you can see them in the right of the picture


Now i located the sense wire in e green plug, it white with a tiny blue strip on it(the blue strip was on the back for where i was looking in the picture)
Now I used the supplied scotch lock(I will be soldering when the weather is better) all the wires are connected


Now it was to locate the switch by e steering wheel, I have one of those flexible pick up tools and was very handy to get through behind the dash and into the drivers fuse box area


Again I used the flexible pick up stick to pull the switch into the binicle area


Now to fit into the the empty switch holder, I decided to remove more plastic so the switch could be used in the up and down motion. The blank comes apart and I located the middle and drilled a 7mm hole


Now I used my dremal to remove the plastic from both bits as in the picture.



Now it was time to fit the switch blank back together and fit the switch


And the final fitted switch


I'm sure there are little bits I have missed but with David's original instructions its a good fit.

Thanks to David pye for the kit.

Click to expand...

So....In my D2 I have a dash screen feeding 4 headrest screens.

Because of this I have an untold amount of additional wiring under my dash and I didn't think I'd be able to get the switch through to the drivers side without a battle.

To get round this I bought a 2 relay remote control board (12V Fixed Encoding Remote Control Switch Control 2Road | eBay)

It has POS and NEG connections at the top (red and black wires), and 6 screw connections to the left for the relays.

The middle connection on each set of 3 is the common.
The far left connection on each set is the Normally Open connection.

I cut the switch off the loom supplied, and connected the wire from the middle terminal to both common relay connections. As you can see the cable from the original loom goes into one relay, then another comes out and connects to the other.
I then took each of the remaining wires and connected one to each of the NOC connections.....one each!!!


I then scotchlocked the POS and NEG from the relay board to the POS and NEG supplied on Daves board.....be sure to scotchlock the POS after the fuse, so both units are protected.

Finally I wrapped them both individually in insulation tape, then taped them together.

Fit as per Daves instructions and jobs a goodun.

I did find the range of the remote quite poor, (the white coiled wire) so I straightened it out and poked it up the side of the dash which seems to have helped.

Hope someone finds that useful!!!

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rubythursday said:

how have you lifted the suspension?

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MJI said:

Sounds good, I am tempted by the remote version

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sierrafery said:

as it works on the same receiver like the key fob IMO the range is the same... which means max 10m all around the receiver(which is on the middle of the roof)

Click to expand...

To get round this I bought a 2 relay remote control board (12V Fixed Encoding Remote Control Switch Control 2Road | eBay)

Click to expand...