If you read about my Freelander's history you'd understand...
Several months at the back of a car lot with the tailgate window down and shrubbery growing in the boot.
My seals all look OK. I have recreated all the door linings using some plastic sheeting meant for protecting the floor when decorating. Just need to seal the fish tank.
 
Before I place an order can someone confirm that this is the auto tensioner? Thought mine would have been manual as it is a fairly early one with a distributor.
I notice that the tensioner has a chunk out of it, and the cam pulleys are covered in paint marks...
 

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    tensioner.jpg
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Auto tensioner
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Manual tensioner
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The tensioner on the standard engine was changed at 97.5 MY to a spring loaded automatic tensioner that self adjusts to compensate for wear after initial setting, but the VVC and 8 Valve engines retained the manual tensioner.
 
I replaced the auto tensioner on my MGF VVC while doing the cam belt and found the auto tensioning part totally hopeless, Not sure what caused the problem but I ended up tensioning mine by feel using the 'twist the belt' method. If you can twist the belt more than 90deg at it's longest stretch between pulleys then it's too loose. Funny thing is I almost made a horlicks of replacing the manual one on my Freelander by turning the tensioner allan adjuster thing the wrong way. I turned it until the marks lined up and tightened the bolt then thinking all was well I turned the engine a couple of times with a breaker bar then double checked by twisting the belt and it was way too loose.
Sometimes the old ways are the best. ;)
Make sure you check the tension this way BEFORE removing the old one so you know how tight it should feel.
 
Dippypud said:
Kia
Click to expand...

Theres ya problem straight away :D

Alibro said:
I replaced the auto tensioner on my MGF VVC while doing the cam belt and found the auto tensioning part totally hopeless, Not sure what caused the problem but I ended up tensioning mine by feel using the 'twist the belt' method. If you can twist the belt more than 90deg at it's longest stretch between pulleys then it's too loose. Funny thing is I almost made a horlicks of replacing the manual one on my Freelander by turning the tensioner allan adjuster thing the wrong way. I turned it until the marks lined up and tightened the bolt then thinking all was well I turned the engine a couple of times with a breaker bar then double checked by twisting the belt and it was way too loose.
Sometimes the old ways are the best. ;)
Make sure you check the tension this way BEFORE removing the old one so you know how tight it should feel.
Click to expand...

+ 1

when its done and you've turned the engine over by hand twice ( at least) and happy to start it listen with it running if you hear the belt, and the sound increases with engine the belt is too tight

lucking at that tensioner you've been very lucky!
 
Alibro said:
I replaced the auto tensioner on my MGF VVC while doing the cam belt and found the auto tensioning part totally hopeless, Not sure what caused the problem but I ended up tensioning mine by feel using the 'twist the belt' method. If you can twist the belt more than 90deg at it's longest stretch between pulleys then it's too loose. Funny thing is I almost made a horlicks of replacing the manual one on my Freelander by turning the tensioner allan adjuster thing the wrong way. I turned it until the marks lined up and tightened the bolt then thinking all was well I turned the engine a couple of times with a breaker bar then double checked by twisting the belt and it was way too loose.
Sometimes the old ways are the best. ;)
Make sure you check the tension this way BEFORE removing the old one so you know how tight it should feel.
Click to expand...
All VVC engines should use the manual tensioner: the autotensioner was only ever specified on non-VVC engines. I fear someone fitted the wrong thing before you got close to it Alibro. Which is quite an achievement because the drillings in the head casting are different between manual and autotensioner.

My 2001 FL now has a manual tensioner. It would be my preference anyway, but in this case mandated by the use of an earlier head casting to replace the FUBAR'd original...
 
rob_bell said:
All VVC engines should use the manual tensioner: the autotensioner was only ever specified on non-VVC engines. I fear someone fitted the wrong thing before you got close to it Alibro. Which is quite an achievement because the drillings in the head casting are different between manual and autotensioner.

My 2001 FL now has a manual tensioner. It would be my preference anyway, but in this case mandated by the use of an earlier head casting to replace the FUBAR'd original...
Click to expand...
The car had a new short engine in it's history from a main stealer so it may have happened then. It was 14 years old when I got it with 90k so goodness knows what else had been done to it.
Whether manual or auto it's always a good idea to double check the tension by giving it a twist.
 
Not had any time this week but all the old timing bits are coming off this weekend.
Recommendations on parts manufacturers welcome. Belts, idler, tensioner.
Change water pump as a matter of course or only if it seems ropey?
Need to purchase and fit PRT.
Oil and filter to do. Plugs and air filter done.
Got hold of an engine undertray from the breaker. No bolts. Does anyone have the sizes to hand?
Need to saw off the side steps as the bolts are just spinning. I was going to keep them but the tubes on one side are rusted through.
Need new plates as they are water damaged. Then pre-MOT!
 
davidsmith1307 said:
Not had any time this week but all the old timing bits are coming off this weekend.
Recommendations on parts manufacturers welcome. Belts, idler, tensioner.
Change water pump as a matter of course or only if it seems ropey?
Need to purchase and fit PRT.
Oil and filter to do. Plugs and air filter done.
Got hold of an engine undertray from the breaker. No bolts. Does anyone have the sizes to hand?
Need to saw off the side steps as the bolts are just spinning. I was going to keep them but the tubes on one side are rusted through.
Need new plates as they are water damaged. Then pre-MOT!
Click to expand...
You need to remove the water pump to check it so pointless refitting for all the cost of a new one. DMGRS have a pretty good reputation for quality although after sales service can be a bit iffy. Any half decent local motor factor will have everything you need and probably in stock.
 
Alibro said:
You need to remove the water pump to check it so pointless refitting for all the cost of a new one. DMGRS have a pretty good reputation for quality although after sales service can be a bit iffy. Any half decent local motor factor will have everything you need and probably in stock.
Click to expand...
I shall take a picture of my local motor factor and post it on here.....
If anyone ever needs 'Honk If You're Horny' bumper stickers then I know just the place.
I shall have a look on Eurocarparts. They are pretty close. If not then Advanced Factors.
 
I used DMGRS for all the parts (including Payen "blue" head gasket) - and pretty pleased I did. All seems of good quality for a reasonable price :) I bought the Kmax head bolts from another supplier on ebay though.

I don't know the OEM supplier for the water pump, but Valeo should be a good bet IMO :)
 
Right chaps. I'm not dead!
I have jacked my job in after 15 years and will be starting an even busier one once I escape from my notice period. Chances are that this motor will never be finished, but there are a few things I have to get done so I can sell it in good faith if that's the way things go.
Engine mount! What are these two fudgers torqued up to?
mounts.jpg
My 450Nm electric impact wrench won't shift them and I have snapped a 1m breaker bar (I'm heavy if not strong, and the bar was a cheapy).
 
davidsmith1307 said:
Right chaps. I'm not dead!
I have jacked my job in after 15 years and will be starting an even busier one once I escape from my notice period. Chances are that this motor will never be finished, but there are a few things I have to get done so I can sell it in good faith if that's the way things go.
Engine mount! What are these two fudgers torqued up to?
View attachment 126182
My 450Nm electric impact wrench won't shift them and I have snapped a 1m breaker bar (I'm heavy if not strong, and the bar was a cheapy).
Click to expand...

Application of heat and penetrating fluid may be called for ...
 
Petrols aren't my area, but looking through the Haynes manual none of the engine mounts are over 80 NM apart from right hand mounting bracket to engine that's 170Nm.
Congratulations on the new job, most of us take jobs with less hours as we get older, trust you to be different.
Mike
 
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