Si Click

Si Click

Well-Known Member
A few weeks ago I had an independent LR specialist swap out my TD5 torque converter for a V8 one refurbished and modified by Ashcroft Transmissions.

This evening 100 yards from home I lost all drive. Engine runs fine, but does not transmit power to the gearbox. Sighs....that will be the torque converter then... Fortunately my son was home and able to recover the D2 with his D90, glad I had a recovery strap and shackles handy.

It will be an interesting conversation with the LR specialist on Monday. They had a nightmare installing it and will not be keen to see it back. Hopefully nothing has been damaged.
 
If anyone can suggest what might have happened to give a sudden, catastrophic loss of thrust I would be grateful.
To be clear, gearbox and engine were behaving perfectly normally as I stopped at a T junction, but when I tried to pull away there was no power in any gear, including reverse. Engine seems unaffected. The only other symptom is that when I reselected P from N after being towed there was a brief, but distinct rattle.
 
Si Click said:
If anyone can suggest what might have happened to give a sudden, catastrophic loss of thrust I would be grateful.
To be clear, gearbox and engine were behaving perfectly normally as I stopped at a T junction, but when I tried to pull away there was no power in any gear, including reverse. Engine seems unaffected. The only other symptom is that when I reselected P from N after being towed there was a brief, but distinct rattle.
Click to expand...
has it jumped out of hi/lo ,rattle going in to p is auto box turning and rattle happens as p pawl tries to engage a turning castellated wheel,this occurs when theres a break in the drive train between the auto box and wheels ,could be hi/lo or a bust diff half shaft etc
if you removed the t/box from an auto or manual box and run engine the output shaft would be turning even with box in neutral due to drag through the clutch with a manual or clutches with a auto,if theres a solid link to the wheels this turning cant happen as the drag cant over come the torque needed to turn the wheels
 
Last edited:
jamesmartin said:
has it jumped out of hi/lo ,rattle going in to p is auto box turning and rattle happens as p pawl tries to engage a turning castellated wheel,this occurs when theres a break in the drive train between the auto box and wheels ,could be hi/lo or a bust diff half shaft etc
Click to expand...

James, you are a very clever man and I am an inexperienced dolt. :oops:
Whilst waiting at the junction it had indeed dropped from H into N. As the lever was not touched and is generally quite stiff, it never occurred to me that this could happen so I assumed a major failure. Still, the recovery experience was useful and having seen the benefit of having some on board, my son is off to buy a recovery strap and some shackles for his D90.

So sometimes simple things are difficult and sometimes major things are easy. Very happy for it to stay that way round. :D
 
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@Si Click - it has happened to the best of us - usually after work which has disturbed the linkage :rolleyes:

Happened to SWMBO last winter :confused: - Makes no nevermind :)
 
Si Click said:
James, you are a very clever man and I am an inexperienced dolt. :oops:
Whilst waiting at the junction it had indeed dropped from H into N. As the lever was not touched and is generally quite stiff, it never occurred to me that this could happen so I assumed a major failure. Still, the recovery experience was useful and having seen the benefit of having some on board, my son is off to buy a recovery strap and some shackles for his D90.

So sometimes simple things are difficult and sometimes major things are easy. Very happy for it to stay that way round. :D
Click to expand...
if you ever need to tow your auto again ensure t/box is in neutral then there are no issues with towing for the auto box
 
That. Is. Hilarious.
I was getting real curious half way down the thread as to what the garage would went wrong.. and well..
 
This there an embarrassed emoji?

In my defence I had driven up to the junction, stopped and without me doing anything the transfer box went into neutral. The was no reason for me to imagine that this was the cause of the lack of drive. Whereas a very recently fitted TQ converter was an obvious suspect.

Subsequent fiddling has shown that the transfer lever can be pulled into H sufficiently to engage drive but not sufficiently to stay locked. A firmer pull gets it properly locked. I don't mind learning in public if it helps spread wisdom. I'm just glad that James's experience saved me from an even more embarrassing conversation with a garage who have done nothing wrong and who kept very close to their cost estimate despite the job going well over the man hours they estimated.
 
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Si Click said:
This there an embarrassed emoji?

In my defence I had driven up to the junction, stopped and without me doing anything the transfer box went into neutral. The was no reason for me to imagine that this was the cause of the lack of drive. Whereas a very recently fitted TQ converter was an obvious suspect.

Subsequent fiddling has shown that the transfer lever can be pulled into H sufficiently to engage drive but not sufficiently to stay locked. A firmer pull gets it properly locked. I don't mind learning in public if it helps spread wisdom. I'm just glad that James's experience saved me from an even more embarrassing conversation with a garage who have done nothing wrong and who kept very close to their cost estimate despite the job going well over the man hours they estimated.
Click to expand...

:oops::oops::oops::oops::)

It is actually common, I have seen several people post up about this over the years.
People who use landrovers as cars don't generally pay much attention to the transfer box, and it's associated stick, but it is quite easy to knock the stick slightly with bags or someone reaching over to the passenger seat, and then it may jump out of gear later.

Best remedy is to use the transfer box regularly, it is actually useful when reversing into parking spaces and so on, as well as off road.
 
Si Click said:
This there an embarrassed emoji?

In my defence I had driven up to the junction, stopped and without me doing anything the transfer box went into neutral. The was no reason for me to imagine that this was the cause of the lack of drive. Whereas a very recently fitted TQ converter was an obvious suspect.

Subsequent fiddling has shown that the transfer lever can be pulled into H sufficiently to engage drive but not sufficiently to stay locked. A firmer pull gets it properly locked. I don't mind learning in public if it helps spread wisdom. I'm just glad that James's experience saved me from an even more embarrassing conversation with a garage who have done nothing wrong and who kept very close to their cost estimate despite the job going well over the man hours they estimated.
Click to expand...
the clue was the grating when going in to p to what was likely on yours
 
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