stevemilne750

stevemilne750

Member
Hi folks anyone point me in the right direction with my 2000 d2 td5 auto.

I disconnected the negative terminal from battery and unplugged the ecu before welding a patch on the footwell when i reconected the battery and ecu it wont start just turns over and hazard lights are flashing continuously presume its the alarm and immobilised its self.

Is there a way to resolve this without nanocom?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Stranger things can happen with our Discos.
You should have reconnected the ECU 1st then the battery 2nd.
Insert the key, turn it to Position 2 for 2-3 minutes, turn off, wait 10 seconds then start her up.
see how you get on with that.
 
stevemilne750 said:
Hi folks anyone point me in the right direction with my 2000 d2 td5 auto.

I disconnected the negative terminal from battery and unplugged the ecu before welding a patch on the footwell when i reconected the battery and ecu it wont start just turns over and hazard lights are flashing continuously presume its the alarm and immobilised its self.

Is there a way to resolve this without nanocom?

Thanks in advance for any help.
Click to expand...
From recent experience if it has immobilised itself, i would say it wouldn’t turn over at all.
 
yes I would reset the imobiliser just press the button down its in the engine bay the engine bay to the right of the engine on the bulk head it has a rubber cap on the top, when mine played up, the engine just stopped, I pressed the button nothing took the cables off the botton a spray of cleaner put them back on preset the button engine going, the check the 4 way flashers are off, then start the engine
 
I've seen BCUs ruined by welding in proximity not once even with battery disconnected, it's the most sensitive to that, the ECU has no problem if the battery is completely disconnected
 
sierrafery said:
I've seen BCUs ruined by welding in proximity not once even with battery disconnected, it's the most sensitive to that, the ECU has no problem if the battery is completely disconnected
Click to expand...

Hopefully not as just spent £194 having bcu repaired at callarova.

Would s you recommend disconnecting bcu while welding as have a fair bit of welding to do in that area?

Thanks
 
Well thanks all(especially the bcu disconect which i will be doing in future got lucky this time) i just tried everything advised not sure which one did the trick or it was just one of those things that sorted its self out but main thing shes running again.

Thanks all this is got to be the best forum out there for help and advice.
 
stevemilne750 said:
Well thanks all(especially the bcu disconect which i will be doing in future got lucky this time) i just tried everything advised not sure which one did the trick or it was just one of those things that sorted its self out but main thing shes running again.

Thanks all this is got to be the best forum out there for help and advice.
Click to expand...
Is it the passenger footwell and bulkhead you are welding. I done mine a couple of years ago.
F5EC95E2-CB12-4DE8-B315-C04794398F62.jpeg

94FE3931-1A97-4326-90D1-910B5B2675D9.jpeg

2ABC654E-E9A5-48AD-AC6E-EA6A40245BB1.jpeg
 
Thats just a scrap peice of metal i was practicing with in photo will be getting some new sheet metal to do the job properly. The other side isnt as bad but both inner wings need welding, rear sills need patched outriggers patched and a few patches on chassis.So plenty to do.
 

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stevemilne750 said:
Thats just a scrap peice of metal i was practicing with in photo will be getting some new sheet metal to do the job properly. The other side isnt as bad but both inner wings need welding, rear sills need patched outriggers patched and a few patches on chassis.So plenty to do.
Click to expand...
I suggest if your welding with all the cables in situ, you get a plumbers soldering mat from Screwfix and use it as a shield between the cables and your weld. I also covered everything I could when welding with damp, not wet, rags and old towels. Welding spatter can go everywhere and cause unseen damage. Also have a supply of cold water and a wet rag to hand to cool any welds where heat spread can cause damage too.
 
meego said:
I suggest if your welding with all the cables in situ, you get a plumbers soldering mat from Screwfix and use it as a shield between the cables and your weld. I also covered everything I could when welding with damp, not wet, rags and old towels. Welding spatter can go everywhere and cause unseen damage. Also have a supply of cold water and a wet rag to hand to cool any welds where heat spread can cause damage too.
Click to expand...
Thanks good advice i was worried about that wiring when working in that area.
 
Andy Warren said:
That's a great job. Did you source where the water leak was that caused it to rot ? I found my leak into both foot wells was where the bulkhead meets the inner wing luckily I had no rust at all in the foot wells.
Click to expand...
On the passenger side it was where the loom goes through the bulkhead. I had to cut the lower section of the oval hole out and weld in a fabricated plate.
BFB19A46-2883-4F87-BC0D-9A3FBC27F4BB.jpeg
 
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