Frenchdame
Well-Known Member
Continued to be totally impressed by the courage, inventiveness and sheer stubborness of my fellow zoners.
More than a little disappointed with Sheilder’s delivery schedule. Apparently the snow was responsible for a 2 week delay! Just about every company I have dealt with in the last couple of weeks has blamed the snow – even when orders have been placed after the event! Still….chassis is getting galvanised as I type (yeah….right….) but of course Easter will delay the delivery further….yawn.
Been using the time to liberally spray every possible nut and bolt with no-nonsense penetrating oil (seems quite effective and great value).
I have removed the rear-most mounting bolts, the ones under the rear seats, the front sill bolts, and am currently fighting with the two front-most ones. Will leave the 3 middle sets – bulkhead, front seats and rear sill – until I have transported Hulk to the garage. With typical Land Rover disregard for corrosion, the front-most bolts are contained under foam rubber pads that successfully trap water on the top of the bolts. I have rarely seen more rusted bolt heads (nuts yes…rarely the bolts). And of course it is impossible to get decent sized grinder onto them….and the Dremel is a little small for the job. Does anyone make 2” grinders?
Parts listed above have duly arrived, but the top-up list is growing! I am really not wanting to go overboard and replace anything and everything, but Shocks have been added to the list along with radius arm bushes.
Now investigating the engine-removal aspects…..
Been using the time to liberally spray every possible nut and bolt with no-nonsense penetrating oil (seems quite effective and great value).
I have removed the rear-most mounting bolts, the ones under the rear seats, the front sill bolts, and am currently fighting with the two front-most ones. Will leave the 3 middle sets – bulkhead, front seats and rear sill – until I have transported Hulk to the garage. With typical Land Rover disregard for corrosion, the front-most bolts are contained under foam rubber pads that successfully trap water on the top of the bolts. I have rarely seen more rusted bolt heads (nuts yes…rarely the bolts). And of course it is impossible to get decent sized grinder onto them….and the Dremel is a little small for the job. Does anyone make 2” grinders?
Parts listed above have duly arrived, but the top-up list is growing! I am really not wanting to go overboard and replace anything and everything, but Shocks have been added to the list along with radius arm bushes.
Now investigating the engine-removal aspects…..
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It is a pain but I have a mate who does a lot of fabrication and he struggles to get stock on time even when the weather is good, the trouble is that the margins are also very tight and it is hard to justify keeping a lot of steel stock on the shelf only for it to go rusty or get damaged being moved around here there and everywhere between projects and then of course the galvanizers will have their own problems with deliveries and of course deadlines for time urgent clients.
But at least it is being done and you won't be waiting too long.
Engine out is easy enough but depends on whether you're taking it all out in one lump with gearboxes attached or all in separate lumps?
Well, time has passed and finally the big shiny lump of metal was delivered this afternoon. Only taken 10 weeks! 
Due to work commitments it was hastily placed on the bogey and wheeled into the garage to get it under cover, and only later did I get to examine it more closely. Sorry about the poor pics - I'll get it outside tomorrow and take proper ones...however, the eagle-eyed amongst you might notice a wee issue.....
Due to work commitments it was hastily placed on the bogey and wheeled into the garage to get it under cover, and only later did I get to examine it more closely. Sorry about the poor pics - I'll get it outside tomorrow and take proper ones...however, the eagle-eyed amongst you might notice a wee issue.....
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neilly
Well-Known Member
Got it in one! All the pics I have seen of D2 chassis have the exhaust hangers on the nearside rail....as they are on my existing model. I was not asked which side I wanted so I assumed that this was standard? Seems not - or have they just made a mistake?
well, I am pretty sure mine are on the passenger side iirc, But could be wrong.
I would make a phone call and ask. Maybe the apprentice was hung over??
Cheers
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
td5 mounts and odd exhaust brackets on rhs side
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
its a mistakeGot it in one! All the pics I have seen of D2 chassis have the exhaust hangers on the nearside rail....as they are on my existing model. I was not asked which side I wanted so I assumed that this was standard? Seems not - or have they just made a mistake?
neilly
Well-Known Member
Rangie Disco Sportsman
Active Member
If you haven't found it already this is a useful link for an online parts catalogue for tracking down parts numbers.
http://allbrit.de/select.cfm?CAR=L5&SPRACHE=EN
Some bolts you can replace with stock nuts and bolts others you will need the LR part. Some captive nuts will be so corroded it's best to just drill and put a new stock nut and bolt through and get an assistant to hold the other side.
Unlike with a D3 or Sport two post body lift where you can lower it back down on to a chassis that hasn't moved a fairly time consuming part of the job is faffing around getting the chassis lined up to lower the body on best to keep the wheels off and use casters/dolly but still a fairly hefty lump with the engine and gearbox in.
http://allbrit.de/select.cfm?CAR=L5&SPRACHE=EN
Some bolts you can replace with stock nuts and bolts others you will need the LR part. Some captive nuts will be so corroded it's best to just drill and put a new stock nut and bolt through and get an assistant to hold the other side.
Unlike with a D3 or Sport two post body lift where you can lower it back down on to a chassis that hasn't moved a fairly time consuming part of the job is faffing around getting the chassis lined up to lower the body on best to keep the wheels off and use casters/dolly but still a fairly hefty lump with the engine and gearbox in.
