Well... here she is in all her eh! glory? I Guess





Little about her
she's a 1994 300tdi with 194k on the clock
has bundles of history including a fully recon engine at 150k
I have been stupid I bought it in the dark it had no battery in and was sat since 2014 when she failed the mot for welding

so I checked all the levels and nicked what looks like 2 Duracell's out the Mrs Vauxhall and hooked it up nothing but a dull clunk from the starter Its clear I need a man size battery I haven't got on its 9 at night whats my options call my mate with round with his chassis cab soon to be recovery truck and 1000amp jump leads
it starts to claw over slowly heating the jump leads up quite a bit

after an hour of trying I get bored and attach a strap to her and decide to tow it home (2 streets away) both rear brakes seized on not a good start trying to tow it with a chassis cab that has no weight on it we finally free it up and start pulling it home on the way I tried to bump it no go was "running" but not running

I quickly decided its fuel and diagnosed the lift pump as kaput

so this morning I dug out my box of useless crap from the garage I find an old Caravan water pump i that's 12v, nip round the garage stick £10 in a drum and set about cutting the fuel feed and return to the injection pump wired it up to a freshly charged battery of unknown history out the back of my garage.
I found a brand new set of glow plugs in the front foot well fitted them, it gave me a chance to have a look at the cylinders with camera.
turn the key after bleeding it up
I get this

So I am happy now for a second or two

The rear door and rear cargo door had seized up so I took the door cards off and freed them off along with the rest of anything body wise that moves (excluding the sunroofs)

then set about it with a screwdriver and hammer this is the results
this is the boot floor and rear of boot leading to the rear cross-member

this is the passenger mudflap bracket

this is, of course the usual sills on a D1


I have had a good prod around at the chassis and can't find any rot it sounds very good no deep thuds etc sounds like a weird bell when rung all over so I am confident it is not full of rust or mud etc

i have check front wheel arches and bulkhead etc and found no holes or signs of rot altho the driver carpet is soaked through so I suspect a hole somewhere my plan for tomorrow is to tear the interior out and possibly the boot floor, and further investigate the tin worm

sorry for the long post and pic heavy post
I have many questions to ask I am sure
cheers
boab

Wow.. that is a fair old project for sure..
All doable of course but there's a lot of money's worth of panel replacement there!
I have a '94 D1 too and can honestly say they make the best all-rounders money can buy. Interior out first is a good idea. You'll find holes in the floors too but it's all easy to patch.
Mine leaks badly into the driver's footwell too- cause is a stupidly placed wiring grommet, just above the inner arch that holds water and rots the surrounding metal.

David_Cooper said:

Wow.. that is a fair old project for sure..
All doable of course but there's a lot of money's worth of panel replacement there!
I have a '94 D1 too and can honestly say they make the best all-rounders money can buy. Interior out first is a good idea. You'll find holes in the floors too but it's all easy to patch.
Mine leaks badly into the driver's footwell too- cause is a stupidly placed wiring grommet, just above the inner arch that holds water and rots the surrounding metal.

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this is the exact reason i am making everything bar the rear arches from scratch from 2mm steel lol
off tomorrow to grab 120x60x3mm box for the sills and 2x 2mm 8x4 sheets of steel
oh yeah a bottle of welding gas also mine is nearly empty best stock up lol

cheers

Sounds like a plan.
I reckon if these things were painted properly, they would have lasted much better. Have fun!

David_Cooper said:

Mine leaks badly into the driver's footwell too- cause is a stupidly placed wiring grommet, just above the inner arch that holds water and rots the surrounding metal

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Sadly, this is standard D1 fitting from the factory - both ours were the same....

David_Cooper said:

I have a '94 D1 too and can honestly say they make the best all-rounders money can buy.

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Agreed - its why we have one each. welding them is less than ideal, but fixing electronic sh*t on modern stuff is a complete deal breaker for us, so D1's forever !!!

@BoabCarney :- that's a fair project for sure - but good for you for taking it on - another one saved from the scrap yard = well done. Thread added to my watch list

Has it got sunroof's ??? cos if it has, whilst you have access to the half arsed attempt that LR made to drain them, , IMHO, do the job properly, and extend them out of the sills, and into fresh air underneath the car !!!! I used 15mm copper (!!), because I had some, and it has worked really well - also gets the MOT guy's brain working every year... "what the **** is that" ( pointing ) !!

And I used 2mm steel on ours too - nice to work, and easy peasy to weld nicely..

Disco1BFG said:

Sadly, this is standard D1 fitting from the factory - both ours were the same....


Agreed - its why we have one each. welding them is less than ideal, but fixing electronic sh*t on modern stuff is a complete deal breaker for us, so D1's forever !!!

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I agree I am a Mobile mechanic so I have all the latest diagnostics etc and I hate the lot of it lol
I was considering the D2 but abs TC active rollbars stupid air suspension and electric draped engine all put me off not to mention the chassis made of Philadelphia
mechanical oil burners are the way forward in my opinion plus I like the Centre diff lock

Disco1BFG said:

@BoabCarney :- that's a fair project for sure - but good for you for taking it on - another one saved from the scrap yard = well done. Thread added to my watch list

Has it got sunroof's ??? cos if it has, whilst you have access to the half arsed attempt that LR made to drain them, , IMHO, do the job properly, and extend them out of the sills, and into fresh air underneath the car !!!! I used 15mm copper (!!), because I had some, and it has worked really well - also gets the MOT guy's brain working every year... "what the **** is that" ( pointing ) !!

And I used 2mm steel on ours too - nice to work, and easy peasy to weld nicely..

Click to expand...

I enjoy welding and fabricating so I probably belong in a landy, I did a good bit of research before even choosing a Discovery so I really knew all along what to expect i had a quick scan over the chassis as in my eyes that's the worst thing to weld body is all easy to repair

I had a few rules
1. not green
2. manual
3. no dents etc
4. 7 seats
5. 4x4 system In good order

I have ticked all the above I only really got the chance to drive it a very short distance 100 yards or so as I couldn't close the bonnet with my redneck diesel tank perched on top of the battery but it all seems fine it selects all gears engages high and low + lock and comes back out of lock nicely

its has a few issues from being stood like swivel have rust on them and are weeping grease/oil out has a few oil leaks from the gearbox / transfer box
power steering was completely dry (hose is perished from bottle to pump) leak back hoses from injectors are leaking

And yes it has sunroofs and I will do that lol any pictures of the copper pipes and where they lead ?

thanks for the advice and encouragement

cheers
Boab

You can't beet a bit of FLASH BAND 4 years & no LEAKS

Proper repair
Mercifully, neither of mine have sunroofs..

Well was busy today so did not get too much done continued to strip bits off
first things first stanley out and start cutting the carpets out to see what's what
LR decided putting a sponge under the carpet was a good idea

so as you can guess its not looking good under the carpet

so out with the hammer and screwdriver again to find a tiny hole about the size of a 5p so not to bothered about that but will most likely replace most of the floor here
ok moving on to the passenger side and much of the same wet carpet and more surface rust no sight of holes yet


see someone did love her at some point and repaired some rot

now on to the back carpet nice and dry for a change and the same seatbelt repair as before

so up to this point, I am still relatively happy it is all looking good and very easy to fix
from here it starts to go south a bit and is reminding me of a Transit van I restored a year or so ago



hmm still not happy I still haven't found enough rust yet
off comes the interior trim and dickie seats I broke most of the trim removing it a bit heavy handed but I have no real plans for it to go back on as its been damaged in the past with insecure loads etc I am undecided if it should go back on or not I may need to source some good condition some


so unfortunately, it looks like the rear quarters need to come off so I can address this rot that someone half ar*ed before
can someone give me a hint on how this is done ?

my plan was to remove the boot floor but I decided against it until I figure out the quarter panels etc

Magicgrotto said:

View attachment 111009
You can't beet a bit of FLASH BAND $ years & no LEAKS

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this is possibly the route I will take as my plan is to totally seal them closed but i would still like to have light coming in

cheers again guys

Boab

Hi B/C Flash Band is ONLY around the edge So there's plenty of light still get's inside

Steve

+ you can't beat a bit of flash band LOL

I am considering using it inside on the quarters etc to help with sound

anyway the rear cross member is annoying me don't want to replace it with the crap 1.5mm ones on sale so thinking I should fab one out of 3mm box anyone ever done this ? I mean made their own ?

it looks like an odd shaped item

cheers again

Boab

You mean like this After fixin of-course

exactly lol as I am not using carpets I am going to raptor line the whole inside of the truck

DiscoPol made his own rear cross member ..... lookie here

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/pics-of-new-box-section-rear-crossmember.222729/#post-2525357

Chrisw8 said:

DiscoPol made his own rear cross member ..... lookie here

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/pics-of-new-box-section-rear-crossmember.222729/#post-2525357

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Cheers Chris this is exactly what I am on about not paying £130 for some tin sheet would rather use 3mm box lol

cheers again

BoabCarney said:

any pictures of the copper pipes and where they lead ?

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I did take lots of pics when I did the sills, I'll have a look and see if there's one worth putting up.... I can take a pic underneath and show where it comes out though, in a nice brass fitting too (!!)

If you do make yer own rear crossmember, dont forget to put loads of piccies up. !!

Here's the progress on mine so far boab, still got rear floor to go lol.
Got to sort the imobiliser nightmare out next.