jt_armstrong

jt_armstrong

Well-Known Member
So before I throw this honing tool at the cylinders is there anything I should know. I know I am looking for a cross hatch pattern but that is about the hight of it.
I'm thinking about things like technique and timing. Is it just a quick in and out or do I need to do it multiple times? Also do I need to lubricate? :cool:
I have one of those Draper 3legged jobs.
 
im not a fan of those ,i think rebore and machine hone is best bet if glazed badly or worn you have to take off enough material to remove glaze and put cross hatch on good metal ,but if doing it you need to try get 45 degree angle and dwell sometimes at top and bottom as center of bore gets twice honed in 1 stroke up /down lubricate with diesel or light oil
 
Hey JT, I did my diesel recently, I also do not imply that I am a master cylinder honer!, but, I know you must lubricate, personally I use WD40 and lots of it, also, don't over do it. Once the bore looks nice and bright, stop.
It's quicker to do than you think. Hope this is of some help.
 
For bore busting you need a slow drill, paraffin as lubricant, up and down quickly a few times will give you the cross hatch.
 
mad git said:
Hey JT, I did my diesel recently, I also do not imply that I am a master cylinder honer!, but, I know you must lubricate, personally I use WD40 and lots of it, also, don't over do it. Once the bore looks nice and bright, stop.
It's quicker to do than you think. Hope this is of some help.
Click to expand...

The purpose of bore busting is not to make it bright but make it dull. Remove the shine from it. Honing to make it smooth or shiny is a totally different concept.
 
Last edited:
Probably not a good idea, but I used to use a piece of dowel with a split for 2" of it's length in an electric drill with a length of wet n' dry in the split and run that up & down the bore. Did the job.
 
wammers said:
The purpose of bore busting is not to make it bright but make it dull. Remove the shine from it. Honing to make it smooth or shiny is a totally different concept.
Click to expand...

Ok, so maybe I used the wrong word to describe the finish, I opologise, but I don't remember saying anything about smooth and shiny!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Datatek said:
Probably not a good idea, but I used to use a piece of dowel with a split for 2" of it's length in an electric drill with a length of wet n' dry in the split and run that up & down the bore. Did the job.
Click to expand...
how did it work in end,they used to do it alot in reconditioners i worked in ,never gave good results ,
 
mad git said:
Ok, so maybe I used the wrong word to describe the finish, I opologise, but I don't remember saying anything about smooth and shiny!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

No but you said nice and bright. How far from shiny is bright? The purpose of using paraffin is to make the stones grip and cut WD 40 or oil will make them slide over the surface. So really it's not lubricant you need it's a cutting agent. The idea is to remove the glaze from the bore and cross hatch it to give the new rings a chance to wear in, rather than just slide on the smooth surface.
 
jamesmartin said:
how did it work in end,they used to do it alot in reconditioners i worked in ,never gave good results ,
Click to expand...

Needed time, care and patience. Preping engines as a hobby it worked well enough, I doubt somebody earning a living doing engines would have the time to get an acceptable result. It was also a long time ago when the tools available were limited:)
 
Thanks guys. I seem to detect that it may not be required to hone the cylinders at all. Am I right or should they always be honed when replacing the rings?
The bores look in really good nick with no lip on either the top or bottom. They do look very shiney though.
 
Datatek said:
Probably not a good idea, but I used to use a piece of dowel with a split for 2" of it's length in an electric drill with a length of wet n' dry in the split and run that up & down the bore. Did the job.
Click to expand...

Just as good Keith, in the old days we used three 1/16 welding rods and three pieces of 120 grit wet or dry. Then twisted the rods together. Bit of paraffin and job done. On many of the cylinder hones you can buy the stones are too fine to do the job properly.
 
jt_armstrong said:
Thanks guys. I seem to detect that it may not be required to hone the cylinders at all. Am I right or should they always be honed when replacing the rings?
The bores look in really good nick with no lip on either the top or bottom. They do look very shiney though.
Click to expand...

The shine needs to be removed and a diagonal cross hatch formed or rings will take forever to seal properly.
 
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