1. yes, provided the N/C contact closes so it's not enough to change the status but important to be closed to live when released if you see what i mean
2. with ignition on you must get 12V against body at pin 10(orange/green wire) of ECU black plug(C0658) with pedal released and 0V with pedal depressed, use a needle from behind without unpluggin it, if you get those readings the brake switch is OK
View attachment 174656


Yep, that's what I get.
 
Then unplug the hydraulic clutch switch and see if the CC works that way, you should have said what year is your D2 cos it depends where it is, on early modells is on the clutch pipe near the fusebox and on facelifts is in the bottom of the master cylinder.... btw, is the ECU the factory fitted orignal one?
 
Then unplug the hydraulic clutch switch and see if the CC works that way, you should have said what year is your D2 cos it depends where it is, on early modells is on the clutch pipe near the fusebox and on facelifts is in the bottom of the master cylinder.... btw, is the ECU the factory fitted orignal one?

It's a 2001 model. I did get it remapped by Dynachip, but he said it didn't need replacing so its factory fitted as far as I know.

I have no idea what/where I'm looking for the clutch switch
 
see this but neglect the input/output thing cos it's wrong, in reality it's N/O and closes to earth when the clutch is depressed
clutch switch description.jpg
 
Then it's normal for the CC to not work cos the ECU gets a clutch depressed input, it seems that the previous owner didnt want to spend on it and simply bridged it but this also reduces the power a bit cos the fuelling is affected, buy a new one and connect it back
 
Then it's normal for the CC to not work cos the ECU gets a clutch depressed input, it seems that the previous owner didnt want to spend on it and simply bridged it but this also reduces the power a bit cos the fuelling is affected, buy a new one and connect it back

Easy job?
Is there any difficulty over getting the right part, or is there only one option?
 
MSK500020 work fast and you'll not have to bleed the system then cos normally you'll lose a bit of fluid only, eventually put your finger on the hole after you remove the old one and fit the replacement
 
MSK500020 work fast and you'll not have to bleed the system then cos normally you'll lose a bit of fluid only, eventually put your finger on the hole after you remove the old one and fit the replacement

What would happen if I just removed the wire from the plug?
 
The cruise control might start to work but there will be rpm surge on gear change... see the purpose of the switch cos that's correct in the description
 
New one fitted, slightly paranoid I could have done something wrong and it'll go wrong; but seems perfect just now.
 

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