Naf623

Naf623

Active Member
My searching has turned up conflicting advice, so hopefully someone can help.

I fitted the cruise control switches etc. yesterday, but it doesn't seem to be working. It could be my error, of course. The light on the binnacle switch lights up just fine, I get up to speed (was trying at a little over 30mph - I gather that 28 is the minimum?) and pull the 'set' button, but nothing happens.

Two initial questions about that:
1. Should there be some indication that the CC has actually engaged? Other than just maintaining speed.
2. Should the Set/Reset controls on the steering wheel illuminate like the rest of the controls when the headlights are on?

And so with all that in mind, what should I start checking? Some places talk about vacuum hoses, but others claim that the D2 is all electronic. I've also seen talk of some switches on the brake/clutch; but don't have a clue what they're talking about.

Any help appreciated.
 
Has the ecu been set to cruise control fitted with a nanocom or hawkeye.?
Check on see if setting is on or off.
 
swatts70 said:
Has the ecu been set to cruise control fitted with a nanocom or hawkeye.?
Check on see if setting is on or off.
Click to expand...
I wasn't aware that was necessary, none of the places I saw mentioned it. I don't have access to one so if that's it then I'm screwed for the forseeable.
 
Naf623, you PUSH on the "set" button, you don't pull on it! But yes, I think swatts is right about needing to set it with a diagnostic. An indy Land Rover guy should not charge much for a two second job like this, I'd ring around. There is also a way of finding out if there is a member near you with a diagnostic kit if I remember rightly. but I do not know how to get at this info. hopefully someone who is more geared up on this will post.
 
Naf623 said:
I wasn't aware that was necessary, none of the places I saw mentioned it. I don't have access to one so if that's it then I'm screwed for the forseeable.
Click to expand...
No worries, the CC is active in the managerment by default no programming is needed, neglect that advice if the ''hardware'' is well connected it should work... if it doesnt work it''s something else... i'll try to help just anwer to the following questions:
1. is it manual or auto?
2. the horns are working?
 
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Hey Discool, hello again! Like the idea of all TD5s being "cruise ready" Hope this is correct, and naf626 has some luck.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Hey Discool, hello again! Like the idea of all TD5s being "cruise ready" Hope this is correct, and naf626 has some luck.
Click to expand...
Good afternoon to u too...
The question is why didn’t LR fit the TD5 the switches as standard like the petrol D2 did ?. Maybe due to a lack of engine power engine, the vehicle could/would start to slow down a bit on hills like the Tdi which would upset someone :( that’s my theory as I don’t like diesels :D
 
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Well my TD5 has cruise control and I use it a huge amount, especially on motorways, even when towing a huge trailer, as it avoids getting speeding tickets in France, where you cannot always spot the little barstewards. (Their fancy binocular things Grrr!) Only problem is where it tries to keep to the same speed, obviously, when going up hills, which drinks the fuel, but on the flat it's great. Mine is a GS and the cruise control came as standard on it. (2000). Really useful in town where I find it so hard to keep to a speed limit. But will not go down to 20 mph! But I agree, if all TD%s are cruise ready, why not fit it as standard? could it be an automatic v manual thing?
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Well my TD5 has cruise control and I use it a huge amount, especially on motorways, even when towing a huge trailer, as it avoids getting speeding tickets in France, where you cannot always spot the little barstewards. (Their fancy binocular things Grrr!) Only problem is where it tries to keep to the same speed, obviously, when going up hills, which drinks the fuel, but on the flat it's great. Mine is a GS and the cruise control came as standard on it. (2000). Really useful in town where I find it so hard to keep to a speed limit. But will not go down to 20 mph! But I agree, if all TD%s are cruise ready, why not fit it as standard? could it be an automatic v manual thing?
Click to expand...

My manual td5 has CC and it works great, I use it daily. There is a subtle difference you can feel on up and down sections , but nothing to cause an issue.

Cheers
 
sierrafery said:
No worries, the CC is active in the managerment by default no programming is needed, neglect that advice if the ''hardware'' is well connected it should work... if it doesnt work it''s something else... i'll try to help just anwer to the following questions:
1. is it manual or auto?
2. the horns are working?
Click to expand...

Manual, and the horn works fine.
 
If you dont feel any surge on gear change then let's say the clutch switch is ruled out but the brake switch's N/C contact is not and to check that a tester is needed, try a trick, depress fully the brake and pull the switch's plunger untill it touches the pedal and see if it helps or not... eventually you can check with multimeter, if you have basic electrical skills i'll tell you what to do... do you have RAVE?
 
Having just changed my brake switch and tested all parts of it, I second that. There are three contacts in there and one is to tell the ECU you've put the brake on and to therefore cut the cruise control. Suppose there must be one somewhere in the accelerator circuit too, to do the same thing, but Sierrafery will know more about that than me, and I bet it is nowhere near the pedal!
 
sierrafery said:
If you dont feel any surge on gear change then let's say the clutch switch is ruled out but the brake switch's N/C contact is not and to check that a tester is needed, try a trick, depress fully the brake and pull the switch's plunger untill it touches the pedal and see if it helps or not... eventually you can check with multimeter, if you have basic electrical skills i'll tell you what to do... do you have RAVE?
Click to expand...

Do you mean press the brake, pull the switch down to meet it, and then go out for a drive to see if that has released it and the CC will now engage?

I know my way around a multimeter (electronic engineering degree), but you'll need to tell me what/where etc. I should have RAVE somewhere, yeah.
 
sierrafery said:
No worries, the CC is active in the managerment by default no programming is needed, neglect that advice if the ''hardware'' is well connected it should work... if it doesnt work it''s something else... i'll try to help just anwer to the following questions:
1. is it manual or auto?
2. the horns are working?
Click to expand...
I installed on mine (manual) 2 days ago. Really just plug and play. No diagnostic tool needed. Works great.
 
berg450 said:
I installed on mine (manual) 2 days ago. Really just plug and play. No diagnostic tool needed. Works great.
Click to expand...
Well lucky old you! Wish everything on Landies was as easy! So, shows it can be done! Despite them supposedly all being "cruise ready" I suppose it is possible that some richardhead might have turned it off with their diagnostic for some stupid reason. Might have to check as a last resort.
 
Naf623 said:
Do you mean press the brake, pull the switch down to meet it, and then go out for a drive to see if that has released it and the CC will now engage?

I know my way around a multimeter (electronic engineering degree), but you'll need to tell me what/where etc. I should have RAVE somewhere, yeah.
Click to expand...
The ratchet thingy in the brake switch might not work too well, especially if it is old. But it takes two minutes to take the switch off and run it past a multi meter.
 
The switch seems to be working; I even had the multimeter on it while attached to the car, and it changes when the brake pedal is pressed.
 
Naf623 said:
1. Do you mean press the brake, pull the switch down to meet it, and then go out for a drive to see if that has released it and the CC will now engage?
2. I know my way around a multimeter (electronic engineering degree), but you'll need to tell me what/where etc. I should have RAVE somewhere, yeah.
Click to expand...
1. yes, provided the N/C contact closes so it's not enough to change the status but important to be closed to live when released if you see what i mean
2. with ignition on you must get 12V against body at pin 10(orange/green wire) of ECU black plug(C0658) with pedal released and 0V with pedal depressed, use a needle from behind without unpluggin it, if you get those readings the brake switch is OK
C0658.jpg
 
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