A

anthony5351

Active Member
Gents,

Back in 2007 i owned a 90 TD5 and had a mildly comical fail on the M4 due to a faulty fuel lift pump - so i am basing some of my technical knowledge on these past events;

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/td5-died-m4-like-no-fuel-43167.html

My current ride is a 2001 TD5 110 double cab;
IMG_1792.jpg


Yesterday on the way home the vehicle started to run rough, as if only on 4 cylinders and engine began to vibrate as if being fuel starved.

I assumed that it would be either;
1.Oil in the ECU plug - some small drops were present on inspection?
2. Fuel filter blocked - changed less than 1k miles ago?
3. Sticking 'wastegate' - checked and moves freely.
4. Fuel pump.

I believe it is the fuel pump and i am planning to change for peace of mind.

What is confusing is that the vehicle will start fine and can be driven at low rev's. I assumed that a faulty pump would cause the vehicle to cut out (as before) and would have been proceeded by a high pitch noise from the pump at start-up.

Incidentally there is no noise (buzz) from the pump at all on start up (fuse and relay are fine). Is this an indicator of nadged pump?

Question - with a faulty pump is it possible that vehicle will still start and run???

When i got the pump out it had a thick black gung around the gauze filter. New one ordered £160..........
 
i clean tank out when pumps removed its easy enough to do throw hole for pump ,pump filter can be cleaned if pumps working
 
yes i will defo clean the tank it has lots of black slime all around it. Pump is defo goosed - think it might have overheated with being clogged up and low fuel level in tank.
 
Thanks - i wasnt aware of an in-line filter above the fuel filter - ill do a search. waiting on a new lift pump and a new fuel line connector (bratwurst fingers snapped one on removal).
 
When my tank pump went it was running fine and then just would'nt start one morning. Cleaned the tank and filter on the bottom of the pump but it only lasted another few weeks.

A reight bastid to start after so called "air bled" system. Got keep cranking for about 30 or 40 seconds foot to the floor !
 
There's a discussion about the various bits and pieces that screw into the filter head here
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f50/td5-air-bleed-valve-fuel-filter-140965.html
so if you don't get any joy with a new pump it might be worth trying these. Yes the engine will run with no pump action at all. I've found this and Shifty reports some experiments where he actually took his for a drive with the pump disconnected. Also, you might want to replace the pump relay (usually a yellow one under the driver's seat). I discovered I could change the engine note on mine by wobbling the pins on the relay. Also worth checking that the rubber sealing washers on the filter are sitting nice and flat in their grooves and are in good condition. One of mine got rucked up and caused an engine cut out.
 
Oh, and have you checked the multiplug where the injector harness comes out through the cylinder head? That's where you'll see oil first of all. In a Defender where the ECU is miles away under the driver's seat it'll take ages to get there, but it'll show up at he cylinder head multiplug first.
 
Brown said:
There's a discussion about the various bits and pieces that screw into the filter head here
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f50/td5-air-bleed-valve-fuel-filter-140965.html
so if you don't get any joy with a new pump it might be worth trying these. Yes the engine will run with no pump action at all. I've found this and Shifty reports some experiments where he actually took his for a drive with the pump disconnected. Also, you might want to replace the pump relay (usually a yellow one under the driver's seat). I discovered I could change the engine note on mine by wobbling the pins on the relay. Also worth checking that the rubber sealing washers on the filter are sitting nice and flat in their grooves and are in good condition. One of mine got rucked up and caused an engine cut out.
Click to expand...

I think your getting comfused some where !

I can't see anyway you could get a TD5 to run with out the tank high pressure fuel pump !!

I have a hidden anti -theft switch that cut's the power to the pump and it stops every time all the time !!
 
Jason2 said:
When my tank pump went it was running fine and then just would'nt start one morning. Cleaned the tank and filter on the bottom of the pump but it only lasted another few weeks.

A reight bastid to start after so called "air bled" system. Got keep cranking for about 30 or 40 seconds foot to the floor !
Click to expand...

Yeah the guys at work have stripped the pump and i have been shocked by the amount of black sludge covering the filter.

Also cut the fuel filter in half and that had collected some of the sludge and its only been on for about 1k miles.
 
Jason2 said:
I think your getting comfused some where !

I can't see anyway you could get a TD5 to run with out the tank high pressure fuel pump !!

I have a hidden anti -theft switch that cut's the power to the pump and it stops every time all the time !!
Click to expand...

i was very surprised that the pump was u/s as the vehicle would run on tick over and drive at low revs. Even with the pump relay removed the vehicle would still start and run.:confused:

We have tested the pump and it has defo gone tits up.

Been a right drama getting hold of the fuel line to pump connectors - ive had to buy a full line at £40 as the connectors couldn't be supplied on there own.....

Should of heeded the Landyzone advice from my original research and cut a hole in the floor rather than dropping the tank...:mad:
 
anthony5351 said:
i was very surprised that the pump was u/s as the vehicle would run on tick over and drive at low revs. Even with the pump relay removed the vehicle would still start and run.:confused:

We have tested the pump and it has defo gone tits up.

Been a right drama getting hold of the fuel line to pump connectors - ive had to buy a full line at £40 as the connectors couldn't be supplied on there own.....

Should of heeded the Landyzone advice from my original research and cut a hole in the floor rather than dropping the tank...:mad:
Click to expand...

Yeh ! Very strange !

Got back from hols towing a f-off caravan round Normandie with no problems what so ever and next morning she would'nt start for love ner money. my cut off switch takes a + from the yellow relay.

Have heard of similar cases like yours though.

I cut a hole in floor, so much easier.

Good luck !
 
A few weeks ago my '99 110 CSW td5 started running rough
It'd clear after running a bleed cycle so I replaced the injector washers & O Rings
fine & dandy for 2 weeks. Then...
refused to start at all, despite bleed cycle so I did the following...
#1. replaced the fuel filter = no better [-£40]
#2. replaced the air seperator widgit in the fuel filter line = no better [-£12]
#3. replaced the fuel pump based on the ammount of air in the supply line at the head = no better [-£120]
#4. replaced the fuel & main relays = no better [-£40]
#5. replaced the CKP sensor = no better [-£25]
#6. replaced the injector loom [less than 6k old] = no better [-£30]
#7. re-replaced the injector copper washers & O rings = no better [-£30]
#8. read that starter motor solenoid could cause electronic noise, so tried bump start behind a 300tdi defender = no better [£free but the cost to diginity]
#9. Only things left all the injectors have failed or the ECU is dodgy, called a man with test book, ECU was dead. Replaced ECU had it recoded & all's fine & dandy [-£700]

Moral of the tale - get an electronic diagnosis it'll probably be better value; mind you I've a box of used spares & the exhaust is cleaner than it's been in a while

regards
Chris
 
UPDATE - replaced fuel pump, fuel filter and x1 fuel line (Black one as snapped connector on removal).

Went through bleed cycle and fired up first go ;)

Test drive done and is now back to full fettle.

Had a few guys look at the old pump and filter - general thoughts are some sort of algae build up on the pump filters. Veh done 140k and no record in the FCSH of fuel pump being replaced (bolts on tank guard seem to confirm this??).
 
8{|> said:
A few weeks ago my '99 110 CSW td5 started running rough
It'd clear after running a bleed cycle so I replaced the injector washers & O Rings
fine & dandy for 2 weeks. Then...
refused to start at all, despite bleed cycle so I did the following...
#1. replaced the fuel filter = no better [-£40]
#2. replaced the air seperator widgit in the fuel filter line = no better [-£12]
#3. replaced the fuel pump based on the ammount of air in the supply line at the head = no better [-£120]
#4. replaced the fuel & main relays = no better [-£40]
#5. replaced the CKP sensor = no better [-£25]
#6. replaced the injector loom [less than 6k old] = no better [-£30]
#7. re-replaced the injector copper washers & O rings = no better [-£30]
#8. read that starter motor solenoid could cause electronic noise, so tried bump start behind a 300tdi defender = no better [£free but the cost to diginity]
#9. Only things left all the injectors have failed or the ECU is dodgy, called a man with test book, ECU was dead. Replaced ECU had it recoded & all's fine & dandy [-£700]

Moral of the tale - get an electronic diagnosis it'll probably be better value; mind you I've a box of used spares & the exhaust is cleaner than it's been in a while

regards
Chris
Click to expand...

what was the cost for the electronic diagnosis
 
Thor1950 said:
what was the cost for the electronic diagnosis
Click to expand...

It was by an independent guy, who works around the South Lincolnshire, Cambs, Norfolk area. He's ex an LR technician having decided to work self employed.

It cost £40 each visit to come to my home. Two visits one to diagnose then another £40 to reprogramme the new ECU.
The unnecessary parts replaced cost around £400. Although not a complete waste as apart from the filter & copper washers they're all serviceable spares.
 
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