EeEk said:
A quick conversion works out at £1555.72 + vat = £1,866.86 :)

https://www.maer.com.pl/sklep,0,0.html

Just bought a 110 one....change out of £ 2k :)
Click to expand...

Sorry what do you mean by "a quick conversion"?
They are all over well over 2k that I can see, but still that's a grand cheaper than I have seen elsewhere. I will check them out thanks. I know of some brands which my friend has fitted before and found them to be out, I want it bang on and if these are, they are great prices!
 
john snoo said:
Sorry what do you mean by "a quick conversion"?
They are all over well over 2k that I can see, but still that's a grand cheaper than I have seen elsewhere. I will check them out thanks. I know of some brands which my friend has fitted before and found them to be out, I want it bang on and if these are, they are great prices!
Click to expand...

They are priced in Euro with Polish vat at 23%.

We buy stuff in £ and pay 20% vat :)

Collected my chassis from Billing show.....cheapest way to get. A couple of hundred quid of fuel is much cheaper than delivery. And I went to the show :)
 
This company don't sell a half chassis. I asked and they said they are building them soon and I shuold get back to them. asked for a price and they said "contact us in a few months". That's a sale lost, I can't wait that long
 
if your only looking for a half chassic, the here are two options

SnapCrab_NoName_2021-7-8_18-54-31_No-00.png
SnapCrab_NoName_2021-7-8_18-56-37_No-00.png
 
Thanks but I woudnt call that "half", it's more like a third! The one I am getting is more like 50-60% and will get more steel replaced to where it's all good very good (still black painted)
 
well looking at the photo, full chassis is 2520, so half is 1260, and these are 1400 so yes they are half,chassis

D5 CHASSIS.jpg
 
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Hmm that's interesting. I suppose I was going by my eye over the whole vehicle. Those "half chassis" which replace the rotten area at the tail end look (against the vehicle) like a third to me, and where we looked where the 2200mm chassis would weld to my original one, it 'looked' like just over half the car. But that image is correct (Discovery2) then you're right and I am replacing what seems more like 80% of the chassis!
 
Hi again I was looking at the photo when I realised it was the front end only I had miss saved it and cut off the rear, here is the full chassis, so then looking at the new drawing the replacement will be from the right hand side

CHASSIS FULL.jpg


now the RPC replacement joint is past the body mount, and the tubular cross member, and at £770 a good option

SnapCrab_NoName_2021-7-9_22-12-28_No-00.png
 
lynall said:
I often wonder if it is worth fitting galv to a disco, its not like the cars are mega money to start with?
Click to expand...
If you look at the prices old fords go for why? because most rust away, in 20 years a td5 might be the same? buy a good but rusty td5 for 2k spend 5k? for galv chassis, use it for 20 years changing bit as needed, then sell for 25k ?
 
my thinking is where can I get another car that will do what it can do for the cost of keeping it going if you take a BMW 5 4x4 in for repairs you need to remortgage you house my Daughters car when in gear box problem the prop shaft snapped, it thousands not hundreds she only managed to keep the car as it was a recall that was missed, and her prop shaft was the wrong size had the bigger one had not been fitted
 
frostythor said:
Hi again I was looking at the photo when I realised it was the front end only I had miss saved it and cut off the rear, here is the full chassis, so then looking at the new drawing the replacement will be from the right hand side

View attachment 242372

now the RPC replacement joint is past the body mount, and the tubular cross member, and at £770 a good option

View attachment 242374
Click to expand...

thanks, that relieves me a bit as I thought I must have had a stroke :D
However £770 to keep rust on my chassis, or £1000 (approx) to go further past any rust I have on chassis, seems wise to me. It also (I think) gets me to an easier point to join em and as it will be my first go (almost at welding too!) I will appreciate the easier straight piece to connect rather than on the bend.
 
Re the replacement v keeping Disco running: To each his own. I do get the other argument. I had it with someone recently who just wanted a bog standard hatchback or estate car for general use and the occasional trip with a wet dog. They were gonna spend what I'd call silly money (12-14k) for some Ford or Vauxhall summinkorother. I suggested 2k-2.5k for a nice older MOndeo private sale well loved one owner (wait for one) and they are bloody lovely to drive, cheap to replace parts, economical enough and old enough that you will never EVER lose 3k in the first 12-18 months on depreciation. For once, someone took my advice! IF i didn't NEED the uses I have for the disco (towing, shooting, beach occasionally for sea weed collection, running over Stasi roadblocks in the impending Marxist doom being lined up for us all) then I'd take my own advice too. If I ever have the money for another car so I can keep the disco JUST for those special purposes, it would be 2k max, amazing what you can get for that (Audi even). I would also love another Y Reg Mercedes E320. WHAT a car that was for value for money. I bought it for 2.5k, last of the German made ones, and it ran and ran and ran. 34-39mpg, fast and smooth as feck, beautiful quality and ride. Cheapest motoring I think I ever had! But I agree, IF you need a Disco for function, there's little to compare (I rather like the Toyota Land Cruisers but at 8k for a decent one, haha, yeah right! Lovely ride though, between fill ups!)
 
john snoo said:
Re the replacement v keeping Disco running: To each his own. I do get the other argument. I had it with someone recently who just wanted a bog standard hatchback or estate car for general use and the occasional trip with a wet dog. They were gonna spend what I'd call silly money (12-14k) for some Ford or Vauxhall summinkorother. I suggested 2k-2.5k for a nice older MOndeo private sale well loved one owner (wait for one) and they are bloody lovely to drive, cheap to replace parts, economical enough and old enough that you will never EVER lose 3k in the first 12-18 months on depreciation. For once, someone took my advice! IF i didn't NEED the uses I have for the disco (towing, shooting, beach occasionally for sea weed collection, running over Stasi roadblocks in the impending Marxist doom being lined up for us all) then I'd take my own advice too. If I ever have the money for another car so I can keep the disco JUST for those special purposes, it would be 2k max, amazing what you can get for that (Audi even). I would also love another Y Reg Mercedes E320. WHAT a car that was for value for money. I bought it for 2.5k, last of the German made ones, and it ran and ran and ran. 34-39mpg, fast and smooth as feck, beautiful quality and ride. Cheapest motoring I think I ever had! But I agree, IF you need a Disco for function, there's little to compare (I rather like the Toyota Land Cruisers but at 8k for a decent one, haha, yeah right! Lovely ride though, between fill ups!)
Click to expand...
I had a old Mondeo face lift and it was the cheapest car to run I have ever had and great to drive, newer cars seems to be a grand to open the bonnet if it goes in a main dealer, We have a old td5 but cars do not rust that much in this part of France 20 years old and has still got exhaust it came out of factory on it and it still looks like new, we have a td4 freelander 1 as main car as cheap to fix, compared to newer cars and hope will last a lot of years
 
john snoo said:
Oui, c'est vrai! Mondeo kicks ass for bang for buck!!
Wish I lived somewhere with less rust problems! Stuff rusts while you blink here in Corrrnwallll
Click to expand...
Shouldn't be too much of a problem unless you drive on the beach, or park regularly where salt is carried inland by the wind.
None of my cars were bad for rust, on one of the most exposed headlands in West Cornwall, because I parked in the lee of buildings.
The rust is more a factor of Land Rovers, especially Discos.

Just get the Mondeo, you know you want to! :D
 
hehee
Well i dont know where you were, but I do know where I am. I could wax lyrical about the speed stuff rusts. A friend of mine is a metallurgist and comes to visit, he often laughs at the state of drill bits, drills, basically any metal anywhere which isnt stored dry and warm, and even then it rusts faster than it does in his factory in Cambridgeshire! The cars are old, and Ford/LandRover, so I know rust is expected more than most, but I am talking screws rusting out of gates in a year, keys rusting sat in doors, dog collars rusting around the dog's neck... :D
 
john snoo said:
hehee
Well i dont know where you were, but I do know where I am. I could wax lyrical about the speed stuff rusts. A friend of mine is a metallurgist and comes to visit, he often laughs at the state of drill bits, drills, basically any metal anywhere which isnt stored dry and warm, and even then it rusts faster than it does in his factory in Cambridgeshire! The cars are old, and Ford/LandRover, so I know rust is expected more than most, but I am talking screws rusting out of gates in a year, keys rusting sat in doors, dog collars rusting around the dog's neck... :D
Click to expand...
I lived near Hayle for 25 years. But the salt blows inland up the valleys, my mate who lived near Goonhavern had his windscreen crusted with salt in the mornings. But if he parked out the back of the house, instead of at the front, it was no problem.

Yes, Pretty hard on farm metalwork, galv doesn't last as long on gates as upcountry.

But careful selection of parking spots will reduce the problem considerably. Land Rovers never had proper corrosion protection on the chassis, so they are worse than other vehicles.
 
Salt on windscreen, Yep, you got it! We do try to get out of the wind but the fog we get here drops it everywhere. Wind is definitely the worst though, and yeah Landy's are rust magnets!
 
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