How much more is the Galvanized option?
You really think it 3-4 times the work, I dont see it sorry as being that much more.
But if budget is tight then I understand. Whatever you decide its your car and you know how much you can afford.
J
The galvanising option adds £168 to the price of that linked chassis above, the price quoted is the chassis without galvanising.
I have to believe my friend who's been doing up landies mainly but discos too for many years, was a landy mechanic at one time. He isn't a God, but he's the best I know and more importantly, I trust him. I think he said it's MUCH more work, i.e. not 'just a quarter more for the extra quarter of chassis'! But he wasn't only referring to the work, he was also warning me of the added costs as he knows once we have the entire chassis and bits off, I will want to replace anything that looks bad once removed, and he knows that will be WAY out of my budget! The full chassis itself though is way outside my budget anyway so it's not really an option I can consider anyway sadly, would love a full chassis. My front end chassis is damn good though, and once it's cut I can get in there and fill it with some good rust protection for the future too.
ha ha, sounds like my mate. He came round once to use my welder. I had never welded at that point (had just got the welder). I asked if he was good at welding, he said "I can't weld for ****, but I can grind to MOT standard". Laughing ensued
Come to think of it, I am lacking a good chuckleworthy signature quote, so maybe that should be mine
That's exactly the plan. The problem is that last bit! The only GOOD mobile welder round these parrrrts is no longer available.
I didn't know it was poisonous! I did a lot of welding to get my old trailer fixed up recently, ground off the galv and welded. Maybe that's why I was seeing dragons in my shed afterwards!Not forgetting that he'd possibly have to do something about the galvanisation so as not to poison said weldery bloke!
Thanks, useful info there, will keep a nose out for the toxic fumes!
Ex-coded, damn you don't live in Cornwall by any chance?!
I didn't see it being too hard to weld the top but hadn't thought about it that much yet so maybe you're right. Not sure where you mean re the underseal? Inside the chassis?
The beauty of this Disco is it has never been waxoyled or sprayed with **** etc, so not too much cleaning to do, just a steam /spray to get mud/dust off really.
Yep that's what I was hoping, grind off the galv before welding. I spoke to fabricators today and they are a welder down so ETA for a 1/2 chassis is now 80+ days, depressing especially as my MOT has expired now, gonna need some trickery to hide the hole and keep it on the road until it arrives, so I can travel a mile down road to drop son at work a few times a week!
Really? Where from?£2k get you a new galvanized D2 chassis.....no welding required
frostythor
Well-Known Member
Hi john, sorry I live in the New Forest, it a bit of a hike to Cornwal, about the underseal it on the floor inside the D2 mine can be very thick in places and it does take effert to remove it for repairs to be done
Google metal fume fever.
So long as last inch or or so galv is removed then that is good enough
As for a good welder, an average one will do just fine, measure total length of weld 2xside top +bottom, and I bet you are getting on for two feet of weld each chassis rail, so even poor welding will hold that just fine.
Tbh I think the welding will be the easy part of that job.
So long as last inch or or so galv is removed then that is good enough
As for a good welder, an average one will do just fine, measure total length of weld 2xside top +bottom, and I bet you are getting on for two feet of weld each chassis rail, so even poor welding will hold that just fine.
Tbh I think the welding will be the easy part of that job.
MJI
Well-Known Member
The round cross member
Gotcha, yes we specifically looked for one that could get past that as wasn't much point spending so much time/money without going past there. Also hoped it would be easier to weld on the straight further forward, although still not sure how easy the welding will be!
frostythor
Well-Known Member
but that may not be true, first you need to know the type of joint, with a 1/3 section it slips over, so it 2 x side, top +bottom , plus the 4 corners, and 3-4 plug welds on the sides for addes strength now if its butt joint, I would plug weld in side plates on the inside of the chassis to add strength or the other way is to weld on external fish plate to add strength
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Pic looks like they are slip joints, so easy to weld, no need for super accuracy to control gaps etc.
Thanks Lynall. Well I have spent a week welding up a very old trailer, replacing some crap metal with slightly better spare bits I had lying around. It's not complete pigeon ****. I have a new Lincoln Bester inverter welder (mig, tig or arc, i'd use mig for this) and it works bloody well, makes welding easy even for me! I get a reasonably nice seam and I welded on some strap eyes on my trailer and they went on nicely (they were 12 mm solid mild steel, welded to 4-5mm galv trailer chassis after removing galv as you say). Maybe I am up to it and need to stop being a pussy
Just a bit scary as I know welding is seen by some as a bit of an art, but I learn quite fast and think I have my welding pretty good for someone who's never been on a course etc. The trouble is, I only find out if I am wrong by crashing my family into a bus.
Maybe I should take some pics of my welds and see what you guys think, asking for trouble maybe
Ha, that's pretty much what we discussed. When I thought it would be two butted ends, an internal plate both sides or a box section to slot inside was the plan. But now i know the chassis comes with flared ends (its bigger box than original) so it slots over and overlaps around 5-6 inches which adds a lot of comfort! I would probably seam weld right around (if i can get to it all), and then add a fish plate (only learned that term yesterday!) on both sides as you say.
frostythor
Well-Known Member
As to the art of welding its no all down hand at some point it either vertical up or stove weld down, up is stronger unless you roll the car over and keep it all down hand
as for slotting over this was how mine came, you can clearly see the ends have not been welded and it slips very easily over the original chassis at the cut point
as for slotting over this was how mine came, you can clearly see the ends have not been welded and it slips very easily over the original chassis at the cut point
I didn't understand the first line at all. Are you saying welding downhill is not as strong as uphill?
The pic was handy, I didn't know what you meant about the "corners" but I do now! Not sure if my one comes like that or full box section without slits along corners.
frostythor
Well-Known Member
yes down hand is not as strong as welding up, if your corners are not split then it would help you if you plug welded an short internal piece of metal on all the 4 sides this will prevent you trying to butt weld the joint and just blowing holes in it, once its done grind off the weld cap and weld on the fish plates
if you need I can send you a drawing on how to do it, this the post I wrote after doing my chassis
Cut and Shut chassis
if you need I can send you a drawing on how to do it, this the post I wrote after doing my chassis
Cut and Shut chassis
EeEk
Well-Known Member
£2k get you a new galvanized D2 chassis.....no welding required
A quick conversion works out at £1555.72 + vat = £1,866.86
https://www.maer.com.pl/sklep,0,0.html
Just bought a 110 one....change out of £ 2k
